New soldering iron and solder recommendations please.

[Sparks]

Hello. I've been having some trouble doing some basic jobs recently, e.g. connecting cable to a stereo plug. I think the cheap (under a fiver) soldering iron is partly responsible, plus poor quality solder that either refuses to melt or turns into stringy lumps. I'm thinking of buying an Antex 25W iron and some more expensive solder such as Ersin multicore. If anyone has any alternative suggestions I'd be pleased to read them. I don't have a large budget so around £20 for the iron and £5 for solder.

Thankyou.

[MrBungle]

At that price range the antex is about right. Rapid electronics sell them via eBay for lowest price. Try and get the XS25 with the silicone cable.

If you can go £2 more for solder this stuff is excellent: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222265194619

[Sparks]

Thankyou Bungle.

[high_vacuum_house]

Good morning,
Make sure that you get 60/40 lead tin solder as the lead free stuff (which might come with the soldering iron as part of a kit) is horrible to work with. I have never made any decent looking joints with it even with a decent Iron.

Christopher Capener

[electrogram]

I too am looking for a soldering iron, I have had the antex for years but I dnot get on with it, I find it just isn't really hot enough for doing repairs on valve radios, maybe its OK for PCB work. Until recently I was using a maplin 40w I got much reduced price a couple of years ago. This had plenty of heat and would easily solder onto chassis . l always felt there was something wrong with it as the handle got rather hot, a few weeks ago the element went open circuit.

[David Simpson]

Not sure if Mr Bungle's eBay solder - "60EN Alloy" is good old 60/40 (Sn/Pb) flux cored solder which most folk in the vintage radio fraternity use.
If you are contemplating doing a fair bit of soldering/de-soldering, then a temperature controlled soldering station is best. They usually come with a selection of interchangeable bits. Maybe you could find a 2nd hand one on eBay or at one of the Swapmeets, or put out a "Wanted" thread post on the Forum, as they are expensive to buy new.
A wealth of soldering advice threads & posts can be found via "Search".
eg. Printed circuit boards & veroboards - maybe less than 340 degrees & quickly use a wee narrow bit. General purpose soldering - maybe a 4 or 5mm bit working about 350 to 360 degrees. Large heavy duty tags or lugs etc. - maybe an even larger bit & 370 - 390 degrees.
Whatever soldering iron you end up with - practice on some old gash circuitry. You'll learn how long to apply the iron before things get too hot & wire's insulation starts to shrink & burn. Careful cleaning & tinning of bits is essential.
There are probably several "YouTube" sites giving lessons.
As Christopher says - avoid lead-free solder. In the vintage radio field, 60/40 solder has been used for years & years. Some very old circuitry from the 1920's & even before just used pure lead.

Regards, David

[Sparks]

Thankyou everyone. I've had plenty of practise at soldering over some decades but my main purpose will be connecting cables to plugs - just simple, infrequent stuff really as a hobby rather than a profession. On reflection, I would say my bigger problem is the poor quality solder I've bought recently. I might try some new solder and a clean bit before buying a new Antex.

[60 oldjohn]

A lot of new soldering irons are designed for use with lead free solder, which as already said is to be avoided. These lead free irons run at a higher temperature, especially if 220-240v irons are run at 250. When I first noticed, it actually boiled and spluttered the Lead Tin off the bit when trying to tin. I also use extra flux to speed up making the joint, reducing the chances of insulation melting when soldering Din plugs ect.


John.

[David G4EBT]

Originally Posted by David Simpson

Not sure if Mr Bungle's eBay solder - "60EN Alloy" is good old 60/40 (Sn/Pb) flux cored solder which most folk in the vintage radio fraternity use.

Yes, it is 60/40 tin/lead.

The 'EN' refers to the five cores of activated non-corrosive flux to EN29454 1.1.2.

A bit more info here:

https://www.rapidonline.com/multicor...-0-5kg-85-6215

See the footnote - it looks like leaded solder is going in the same direction as creosote and DCM paint-stripper, but let's not go there - most of us have probably got enough 60/40 to see us out - I certainly have!

Quote:

Please note: As of 1st March 2018 the supply of solder containing lead at a concentration above the relevant limit as set out under Article 67 (by virtue of Annex XVII) is restricted to professional use only.

Unquote.

[Uncle Bulgaria]

I used to have big problems soldering little jacks and connectors. I discovered it was partly my technique and partly the iron. Make sure the bit is clean and tinned so the heat can transfer well into the part, and either plug the connector into its mating half or hold it with some pliers so that the piece being heated has a sink, rather than melting the plastic the pin is usually set into! I find that if they are plugged together, then even if it gets overheated the alignment doesn't get upset.

After red-handled Weller irons that ate through their bits, and an Antex that broke, I eventually bought a cheap secondhand temperature controlled Weller that has really been the bee's knees. If you can save up for a Magnastat or WS81 (what I have - I think I paid about £100 compared to the hundreds for a new one) if you're anything like me, it will make a world of difference. As a young hobbyist, I use it daily for fun and for household repairs. It's really repaid the expense and made soldering enjoyable rather than a hurdle to overcome.

For now, I think one of those Antexes will be fine. I made my first valve amp. with an unbranded Maplins iron about ten years ago. Good solder is worthwhile, and the cost is about a beer between the cruddy stuff and the good, for the small reels. They'll last you an age for occasional use, but should save some heartache and frustration.

[OldTechFan96]

Depending on what you do, an Antex 25W soldering iron could be the only iron you need. Every now and again you might need a bit more heat and a bigger tip. For this it would be worth looking into an old Henley Solon 65W or 125W iron or similar.

Maybe a different style of tip could help? The Antex comes with a 2mm bevel which is pretty good for the most part. Sometime you might find yourself in a situation when a finer/larger tip would be suitable.

I have been using Antex irons since I started soldering in 2012 and would recommend them. I do have some minor gripes though!

EDIT: My first iron was an B&Q cheapie and it blew a fuse in the fusebox after I tried to adjust the tip! It went straight in the bin!

Caveat Emptor!

[whiskas]

I'll also give a strong recommendation for the Antex XS25 iron.
Probably the best standard iron out there, and cost is modest.
It's not worth struggling with a cheapie really...

[Sparks]

Thankyou again everyone. I'll give serious consideration to the Antex and dump the lead-free solder.

[MrBungle]

The solder I mentioned is the last line of the old multicore stuff you can get retail in the U.K. snap it up quick! I bought 20 rolls of it!

[PsychMan]

Im not sure lead free is as bad as many claim. Its certainly not the known quantity tin and lead solder is, and who knows how long the joints could last longer term. It certainly works short term as all modern goods have used it for some time.

It does take more heat to flow than tin/lead does and isn't quite as nice to work with. I still have some left over from years ago and try and use it for practical things I don't care about to get rid of it - not vintage stuff.

Soldering iron wise, the Antex ones are fine and I used one for many years. I upgraded to a Hakko clone: "Quicko T12", that is temperature controlled and its brilliant and didn't cost me a lot of money, 40 quid iirc with a range of bits! I believe it was Mr Bungles recommendation. One great feature for me is it will scale the heat down and eventually take the heat away if not used. Which is useful if you get distracted and forget its on! Makes the tips last longer too

[Radio Wrangler]

As a youngster I had the then standard small antex, 15 or 18W. For valve work in the receivers and oscilloscope I was working with, its power was inadequate. I was fighting to get things up to temperature all the time and the long time with the iron on a joint stewed things.

The later 25 watt models are a lot better.

At uni, I still had my antex at home, backed up by a Weller gun (100/140w but very inefficient) The uni lab toolboxes included a 15W Antex. It was what I was used to.

When I went to work at HP, things were different. I met 50W temperature controlled irons for the first time. Wow did life become easier.

The 25W Antex should do you for now, but keep your eyes open. 50W temperature controlled Wellers have popped up on the offered pages of this forum, and sometimes turn up at amateur radio rallies, all pretty affordably, if you are in the right place at the right time. If you see one and can afford it, don't miss it. I collected a few beaten up non-workers and assembled a good one. You don't need the base, all it is is a 24v 2.5A transformer, so you can make your own base if need be.

David

[dinker11]

I can't express how much a Metcal 500 changed my soldering experience for the better. I'm lucky that i still have 2 500grm reels of solder that will probably last me until my "forever box"

I got one of those Chinese temperature controlled jobs a while ago for the kitchen, for the price (25 quid or so) I am still quite impressed. Whatever you get go temperature control, it makes so much difference. I have soldered using a screwdriver heated on a gas stove and used top of the range Metcals, here is my list of ease of use of various soldering devices I have had experience with.

Screwdriver in gas, 1 (it worked)
Big old copper gas heated iron, 3 (much more heat capacity than a screwdriver)
Lighter style gas iron, 7 (handy, worth getting one)
Bog standard uncontrolled iron, 10
Cheap controlled iron, 20 (bits are much less than a quid)
Mainstream controlled iron, 25 (a bit more heat capacity, bits are a couple of quid)
Really posh controlled iron, 30 (you can almost solder a car with a thin bit, 10s of pounds per bit too)

Proper leaded solder makes the job twice as easy too.

[Graham G3ZVT]

Look up "937D solder station" on Ebay.

Screwdriver in gas? A little anecdote for you merlinmaxwell.

Years ago the company I worked for had a maintenance contract for practically every betting shop in the country (info screens etc). I was called out on a Saturday to a shop quite far away, to find that coffee had been spilled into the managers keypad. One of the PCB tracks had corroded away, I didn't have a spare with me, I knew I could fix it with a wire link, but guess who had left his iron at home?

I had to improvise, this was long enough ago for the 12v cigar lighter socket in my car to be equipped with an actual cigar lighter.

By pressing it multiple times I got the metal shroud of the lighter hot enough to melt the inch of solder I found in the bottom of my toolbox, and effected a repair.

I then took it back into the shop and announced I had a spare keypad after all.

['LIVEWIRE?']

It does say 'Multicore Leaded Solder' in the eBay link posted by Mr Bungle. Sounda s good buy at the price quoted, too!