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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:32 pm   #201
Slothie
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Great work Phil.
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:33 pm   #202
philoupat83
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

or you find mm2112
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:34 pm   #203
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Actually I see the confusion - your routing layout is very different to mineClick image for larger version

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ID:	206486 so R4 is in a different spot - I came up with my routing as I feel I can see that horizontal bar over the 555.

As you say though as long as the document and the PCB agree it does not matter.

I would be honoured if you are prepared to have Phil/Tim - your name should be first...
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:34 pm   #204
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thanks kicad is super thanks for the advice
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:37 pm   #205
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

I did it like you did and I changed today by looking scrumpi2
I would put TIM first scrumpi is English
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:39 pm   #206
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see 188
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:40 pm   #207
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
check the circuit before I do it by jlpcb (one for you )
Thank you so much appreciate that... it will be amazing to have a real one. I am checking at the moment to see if I can spot any errors.

You know that you do not need the extra link for the SOUT LED I think I mentioned before you could do this:

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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:40 pm   #208
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

I can still change
for the gnd of the switches also
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:41 pm   #209
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yes but we see a strap
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:42 pm   #210
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can be too many tracks under IC1 ?
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:43 pm   #211
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
yes but we see a strap
Ah OK yes you are correct in the black and white one
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:45 pm   #212
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Oof I’m going to bed good reading to your remarks tomorrow
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:47 pm   #213
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makes me a good list checks the position of the switches look everything I count on you
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:50 pm   #214
Timbucus
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
see 188
I missed that post sorry - why did you decide on the SCRUMPI 2 layout? That looks like it is different with a diode as well which we will have to work out what it does when we do that one
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Old 22nd May 2020, 10:51 pm   #215
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
makes me a good list checks the position of the switches look everything I count on you
OK I will probably check first thing in the morning as I have had a few wines and beers chatting with Spanish friends - this is important!
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Old 23rd May 2020, 9:02 am   #216
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

hello
good recovery tim
nothing urgent. I suprimé the imprint of the leds the discussion of r4r5 remains philosophical be at the most ready of the original? you must first check if there is no error
on the photos do not take into account the position of the texts eagle n is not flexible
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Old 23rd May 2020, 10:32 am   #217
Timbucus
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
hello
good recovery tim
nothing urgent. I suprimé the imprint of the leds the discussion of r4r5 remains philosophical be at the most ready of the original? you must first check if there is no error
on the photos do not take into account the position of the texts eagle n is not flexible
I think the circuit for the 555 is correct so there is no need to change it - as you say only when we see a real board will we know the R4/R5 situation... this will then be correct or the forgers idiosyncrasy...

Your circuit diagram you posted in #192 is too low a resolution to read so I cannot work out why you have the +5v on the bottom of STEP? I think it should only go to the top of R11.

On my board and circuit I have R11 other end going to the middle PIN not the bottom one of RESET - mainly because I could only get ON-OFF-(ON) switches - this could be simulated by joining the two pads so no need to change the layout really.

Also on my vero board I had to make a physical bit of wire through the hole in the switches to make a good Physical strength - maybe the pads need to be a bit bigger to allow this or the switches will quickly break with just solder?

I am also worried that the PADS for Link wires are too small for the larger patch wiring that will be used on the Ground connections?

I am still checking again but, the other switches, CPU, Memory and LED buffer sections seem correct .

You have chosen a different set of pins to my two circuits on vero and schematic/layout on IC11 - I have checked and yours is also correct and will work, so I will update my circuit in the booklet to use those pin numbers.
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Old 23rd May 2020, 12:57 pm   #218
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Thanks tim for your feedback I will change the size of the pads for step on the multisim software of national semiconductor does not support pine in the air confirms me that when the slow step switch remains fixed before action (the data of the ne555 speaks of switch to negative?)
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Old 23rd May 2020, 2:26 pm   #219
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

I am trying to work out how to use the I/O chips at the moment for the manual

I think the Clock signal will need to be connected to R/W - the clock is edge triggered on a Low to High but, that should be fine as it will trigger on the way out of either a Read or Write cycle. I am going to wire up one on my veroboard to prove this as it would mean we need a PCB link - if we are clever then I think we can get the Normally Low but going high on Read or Write from the output on Pin 3 of IC11 and it can be reached with a route. Joining R/W on the RAM and those pins would be a problem.

This will allow you to remove the extra two pads that are not on the original PCB...

I would appreciate someone else taking a look at my thinking... I will try today I hope though.

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Old 23rd May 2020, 5:37 pm   #220
Timbucus
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Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Also the CONT input needs to be at +5v - you could just continue the track and join to the top of R11 which it seems from the SunMoonStars image is what happens.
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