Wiring Smiths Sectric wall clock

[StacyT72]

Hi all,

New here! I recently trawled through threads about Smiths Sectric clock wiring on here, so I'm hoping someone can help me out as well.

I just purchased what I was told was a 1940's Post Office clock. From reading here, I've discovered it has to be post 1948 because of the plurality of Smiths! Any more information to help me determine the origin would be great!

Also, as you can see from the photos, it needs to be wired. I have done a small bit of electrics before, but nothing vintage. I would like to keep it as natural looking as possible, so I'm asking for help! Could anyone either advise me of a person or place in the Belfast area who would be able to do this? Or, if it's a small enough job, I would love a go at it myself! I just don't know the proper type of mains lead and plug to buy. I don't want to ruin it by trial and error.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Cheers!

[Tractorfan]

Hi,
What I would do is connect the two red wires to a length of two core lighting flex using small terminal blocks (sometimes called barrier strips) and then fit a plug with a 3 amp fuse. I would also find a way of securing the sheath against being pulled away.
Cheers, Pete.

[MurphyNut]

As it's all Bakelite it won't need earthing, you can buy rather nice two core braided vintage looking flex. Though it might be a bit thick to go through the hole. I'd second Pete's advice and add a 3 amp fuse either in-line or at the plug.

[Station X]

Stacy.

Just in case you don't know the colour code for mains leads:-

Brown wire goes to the LIVE pin of the plug via the plug's internal fuse.
Blue wire goes to the NEUTRAL pin of the plug.

At the clock end you can connect the wires either way round.

If you have a meter I suggest that you check for continuity between the two red wires before buying a plug and mains leads. The coils can sometimes go open circuit.

[Nickthedentist]

You needn't mess around with those stubby red bits of flex. It would be better to abandon them and fit a whole new mains lead, complete with plug.

I would get an unwanted mains lead with a normal mains plug already fitted to one end and a "figure of 8" connector on the other, just like you'd get with loads of small electrical items, like this one, though you can probably find one lying around your home or in a charity shop for a few pence: https://www.jprelec.co.uk/store.asp/...ocket-fused-3A

With the mains plug out of the wall (obviously!), cut off and discard the fig-8 connector, strip off a couple of inches of the outer black jacket to expose the inner blue and brown wires, then strip off half an inch of each of the coloured sleeves to expose the copper strands inside, then twist the loose strands together: http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_...wires_done.jpg

Then, remove the plastic cover over the movement by undoing the central screw (anticlockwise) with your thumb, remove the red stubs from the terminals inside, pass the new lead through the hole in the cover, then connect its blue and brown bared wires to the two screw terminals on the clock movement, see attached pic. There must be no stray strands - they must be all tucked neatly under the washer under the head of each brass terminal screw. Then re-fit the cover and its screw.

This would take a competent person about 10 minutes at most. They need not be au fait with vintage tech for this. Shops and electricians may decline to do this for you, as electrical items of this age can't usually pass modern PAT tests, so it could be more risk than it's worth for them.

Don't try it yourself unless you feel confident, as mains electricity can be lethal. Ask if you're unsure

Good luck,

Nick.

[paulsherwin]

Nick has explained the procedure very well.

As he said, if you are unsure or nervous about this, maybe you could ask a friend or relative interested in electrical things to help? You just need someone competent to check your work before plugging anything in.

[Tractorfan]

Hi,
I assumed that the leads were connected straight in to the coil. I didn't realise there were terminals within the cover.
Cheers, Pete.

[Nickthedentist]

You're not the only one, Pete, I've seen loads of these with new leads spliced onto the sad remains of the old using insulating tape and all sorts!

Nick

[StacyT72]

Wow! Overwhelmed by the speedy response! Thanks so much everyone!!! I have ordered the cable and will keep you all posted as to my progress once it comes in!
Also, anyone know how to date this clock properly?
Thanks again everyone! x

[Nickthedentist]

Barrie's site suggests 1938-1955: http://www.electric-clocks.co.uk/smithsclockssmit.html

Is the model name stamped on the back of the dial, in yellow ink? This looks rather like the Dudley to me, which would narrow the date range down to the first half of the 1950s.

Sometimes the date is embossed onto the movement, but this requires quite a lot of disassembly to see.

It's entirely possible it that may have been used in a post office, but it's definitely not an "official" post office clock: http://www.britishtelephones.com/clocks/cloclist.htm

[paulsherwin]

It may well have come from a sub post office rather than a Crown office. These Smiths clocks were sold in huge numbers and were once a common sight in all sorts of commercial, industrial and public sector buildings.

[broadgage]

It would be preferable in my view to use a 1 amp mains fuse rather than a 3 amp fuse.

Traditionally, electric clocks were connected to the lighting circuit via a purpose made clock connector that contained a 1 amp fuse.
Nothing prohibits connection via other means such as a 13 amp plug, but it would then be preferable in my view to use a 1 amp fuse.

1 amp fuses to fit standard plugs are available.

[paulsherwin]

A 1A fuse is desirable, but they can be hard to find, and the crucial thing is not to use a 13A fuse. We see all sorts of inappropriate equipment fused with these. They are intended for high current appliances like heaters and kettles, and provide next to no protection for something like a clock. A 3A fuse provides reasonable protection, though 1A is certainly better if you can find one.

[StacyT72]

Thanks for the heads up about the fuse! I found a pack of 5 x 1a fuses on amazon for about £2. So I will have that delivered and not plug it in until I switch out to the 1a fuse!

[Nickthedentist]

Good points.

I recommended lopping the end of a fig-8 lead merely because the cable will be of the right type and gauge, the fuse will be no more than 3A and the plug will be properly fitted.

[mole42uk]

Originally Posted by Nickthedentist

the fuse will be no more than 3A and the plug will be properly fitted.

Both are assumptions I wouldn't have made.

[Nickthedentist]

Fair enough, but there's much less likely to be a problem with a ready-made lead like this than one assembled by someone with no prior electrical experience, or one robbed from a larger discarded electrical appliance.

[The Philpott]

.....The best things about having an analogue mains powered clock is that in the event of a power cut you can tell exactly how long it's been off...thus validating whether your frozen prawns and vienetta are still likely to be edible.

[broadgage]

Originally Posted by StacyT72

Thanks for the heads up about the fuse! I found a pack of 5 x 1a fuses on amazon for about £2. So I will have that delivered and not plug it in until I switch out to the 1a fuse!

I would not worry about a brief test with a 3 amp fuse !
My preference for a 1 amp fuse was for long term unattended operation, which is of course the norm for a clock.

[Mike Phelan]

Originally Posted by The Philpott

.....The best things about having an analogue mains powered clock is that in the event of a power cut you can tell exactly how long it's been off.

Also, if you also have one that's not self-starting, you will see when it stopped.