UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Powered By Google Custom Search Vintage Radio and TV Service Data

Go Back   UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum > Other Discussions > Homebrew Equipment

Notices

Homebrew Equipment A place to show, design and discuss the weird and wonderful electronic creations from the hands of individual members.

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
Old 10th May 2017, 10:08 am   #1
David G4EBT
Dekatron
 
David G4EBT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
Default Making replica backs for radio with a DIY Router Jig

In 2012 I designed three jigs for making replica backs, initially for a post-war Little Maestro, then for a Wartime Civilian Receiver, then a Murphy U198. It then dawned on me that I could design a 'Universal' router jig to cater for any back up to 30cms square, with a range of slot lengths and the spacing of each row of slots to the one below it. A jig of any sized back could be made, but 30cms covers a range of smaller popular radios such as the DAC90A, WCR, Little Maestro, Murphy U198 and similar sized sets. Hence, I designed a universal jig, which featured in a six-page article in Summer 2013 BVWS Magazine, but many won't have seen that, so I hope this thread will prove helpful, at least to some. If not, please file it under 'burn before reading'!

It is one of life’s mysteries as to why so many radios have missing back panels.

Could it be that a ‘phantom twiddler’ remove the back from a faulty radio to have a dabble at repairing it, and having not succeeded, didn’t replace the back? Or in less safety conscious times, were backs removed to allow more ventilation to prevent sets from overheating, in the hope of prolonging the life of the set by allowing heat from mains droppers and valves to escape? It's anyone's guess. Even when the back is present, it often has chunks missing, due to excess heat damaging it over time, sometimes exposing dangerous high voltage components such as mains droppers.

Whatever the reason, missing or damaged backs pose the question of what to do about it. Rarely will a replacement original back in good condition become available, so the next best thing is to create a passable replica of the original, so that’s what this thread is about.

At the NVCF in 2012 I'd bought a post-war AC Little Maestro ‘woodie’ with an attractive dial and a nice cabinet, but with a back in need of replacement. There was enough of the back still intact to enable me to fathom out what it should look like, so I pondered on the options for making a new back, both in terms of time, and the likely end result. I narrowed it down to two options, the second option has the merit of repeatability and accuracy once a simple jig has been made:

Option 1) Mark out a blank back panel with the layout of the slots, drill a hole at each end of the slots (58 slots in the case of my ‘Little Maestro’ – 116 holes), and using a hand-held fretsaw or an electric scroll-saw, saw the 116 sides of the slots, or chop them out with a chisel and mallet. Very tedious and time consuming, and however much care is taken, is likely to have disappointing results. Furthermore, if other backs had to be made, it would be just as laborious to repeat the process. I therefore discounted this option.

Option 2). To make a router jig for accurately cutting the slots in replica backs. This would involve three or four hours work, but once made, by using the jig to guide a router, the 58 slots in the Little Maestro back could be neatly cut in about half an hour and the jig could be used if needed again to make other backs. To cut the slots simply involves setting the depth gauge on the router to cut through the new back panel, plunging the router in at the top of the slot position, then pulling the router towards you in the jig until the slot is cut, then switching off and repositioning the new blank back laterally in the jig to cut the next slot. To cut each slot and reposition the back panel in the jig to cut the next slot takes no more than 30 seconds.

Hence, I opted to make such a jig.

The basic technique could be employed to make similarly slotted back panels for other radios. To take the Wartime Civilian Receiver as an example, it has a total of 83 slots arranged in four rows. To make such a back panel by any other means than a router jig would be a time consuming and daunting task. The ‘universal’ jig will cater for most smaller radios, including the ubiquitous Bush DAC90A, (22 cms x 29cms), by using a blank panel 30cms (12 inches) square, then cutting the panel to the desired size and shape after the slots had been cut. The back then needs to be painted - usually dark brown matt emulsion, and a label created and stuck on similar to the original wording.

The pictures in this thread will show how the universal jig is made and demonstrates the processes of cutting the slots, and I have shown examples of six different backs that I’ve made on the ‘universal jig’. Figs 1 & 2 show the original damaged ‘Little Maestro’ back, and the replacement I made, which inspired me to design and make the ‘universal jig’.

The design criteria for the router jig are:

• To hold the blank back panel in position while each slot is cut with the router.
• To enable the panel to be moved into the next position for each new slot to be cut.
• To limit the travel of the router to enable the correct length of slot to be cut. (i.e., 28mm, 25mm, 18mm).

• To enable the router guide to be re-positioned to cut subsequent rows of slots.
• To be adjustable to cater for different vertical spacings from one row of slot to the next, and different slot lengths.

Once the concept of the jig is understood, all that is needed to make and use it are basic woodworking skills, and a cheap DIY store router, which often sell for under £25.00. While they're not up to the more demanding router tasks, such inexpensive light-duty routers fine for this sort of thing. (The router I use cost £5.00 from a car boot sale).

The components of the jig are:

• A baseboard, 1 Metre (39 inches) x 90cms (36 inches) e.g, 18mm chipboard loft floor pack of three.
• Two ‘fixed guides’1 Metre x 30 cms (12 inches), made of strips of material of the same type and thickness that the new back panels are to be made of.
• Two ‘lateral guide panels’, 32.5 cms (13 inches) x 30cms (12 inches), again of the same material as the new back panel.
• A ‘router sole plate guide’, 60cms (24 inches) x 17.5 cms (7 inches) made from 10mm or 15mm MDF, with an aperture cut to suit the ‘footprint’ of the router sole plate, as described below.
• Two ‘filler pieces’ - one 3mm thick, the other 10mm, to fit the aperture in the sole-plate guide to limit the length of travel of the router for cutting slots shorter than 28mm. (i.e., 25mm and 18mm).
• 6mm Dowels.
• Screws.

A ‘loft panel pack’ of three 18mm chipboard loft flooring panels 1.22 Metres x 320mm from a DIY store is ideal for the baseboard and will typically cost about £7.00. If a loft pack is used, two wooden strips will need to be screwed across the three boards on the underside, as illustrated in Fig 4.

The question arises as to what material to make the backs and the guide panels from.

Many, if not most radios backs were made from 3.5mm thick 'millboard' - a sort of compressed cardboard which becomes fragile and brittle with years of exposure to heat from valves and mains droppers - hence the damage to the old back that we so often see. You can still get millboard from firms that supply car restoration materials but it's not cheap, nor do I think it's the best material to use with a router. (The holes would originally have been stamped out on a press using a punch and die).

Either 3mm MDF or standard 3mm hardboard are a good substitute for millboard, though 3mm oil-tempered hardboard is a much better choice as it is more robust than both MDF or normal hardboard, though is not so easily sourced locally. Standard 3mm hardboard varies in quality and can sometimes be rather 'fluffy', but will suffice and was used to make the six backs shown in this article, using the ‘universal jig’.

Two 4ft x 2ft sheets of hardboard are sufficient to make the jig and several backs.

If oil tempered hardboard can’t be found locally, then either 3mm MDF or standard hardboard would suffice, and the six examples of backs that are shown below are of standard hardboard. At the time of writing, a 1.2 x 2.4 Metre (4ft x 8ft) sheet from B&Q costs £7.15 and in larger stores they’ll cut it to your sizes free of charge while you wait. At 22p a square foot, there’s plenty of scope for making the jig, making mistakes, and making lots of backs too!

The same basic principles apply to making a slot-cutting jig for any radio back that has ventilation slots rather than holes.

The width of slot seems to be standard at 6mm (1/4”), and the horizontal spacing in all of the radio backs that I have seen has uniformly been 12.5mm, (1/2”). However, the length of slots that I have encountered to date have been 28mm, 25 mm and 18mm, and vertical spacing from the top of one slot to the top of the slot beneath it has varied from 35mm, to 38mm, 40mm and 42mm. For the jig to be worthy of the name ‘universal’ it needs to cater for different lengths of slots and vertical spacings, and as designed, the jig will indeed cater for these variations. Pic shows common dimensions that I’ve encountered, but they are by no means ‘standard’.

If radios are encountered with larger dimensions that the jig can cater for, or different slot spacings, the same basic principles can be used to build a larger purpose-made jig for such radios. For example, the circular back of the Ekco A22 is just a little too large at 32.5cm diameter (12.75”) to use the jig as it stands, but all that would be required to modify the jig to suit the A22 back panel would be to reposition the top and bottom fixed guide panels to enable a 32.5cm square panel (or a little larger to allow for some waste) to fit into the jig. The A22 panel has a row of 11 horizontal slots down each side, and 11 slots across the top, all 28mm long, spaced at 12.5mm centres. All three rows of slots could be cut on the jig by turning the square blank so that each row of slots is cut in the upright position along both sides and the top. The rest of the ventilation holes on the back panel of the A22 are 20mm diameter and could be quickly cut on a pillar drill using a 20mm ‘lip and spur’ drill bit. The square blank would then be trimmed to its circular shape on a band-saw or with a fretsaw.

If slots in particular radios are encountered which differ from the usual 12.5mm (1/2”) horizontal spacing, all that would be needed would be for the two lateral guide panels to have their two rows of holes for the dowels to be positioned at the correct intervals. (There is no reason why additional rows of holes could not be made in the lateral guide panels for different horizontal spacings and alternative dowel positions to suit those additional rows of holes, rather than to make new guide panels).

Pic 1 is the Little Maestro damaged back with the replacement I made, which set me off on this frolic.
Pic 2 shows six types of backs that I made, ready to be painted and labelled.
Pic 3 is of the backs painted and labelled.
Pic 4 shows the most common length of slot, and spacing between rows. Row spacings I've seen so far are:

Little Maestro post-war woodie: 35mm
WCR: 38mm
DAC90A 40mm
Little Maestro 105: 42mm
(All have 28mm slot lengths.

Pic 5 shows a Murphy U198 completed back, which has two slot lengths - 28mm & 18mm, which the jig will cater for.

In another post, I'll give details of how the jig is made, but meanwhile, I hope the pics will encourage others who are 'back-less' to consider making a jig. I should add that due to time constraints I'm not able to make backs or jigs on request and it makes no economic sense to do so, given to the time involved, but if you like woodwork and have a few tools and skills, it's not as complicated as it may sound - just basic DIY.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	LITTLE MAESTRO OLD AND NEW BACKS_edited-1.jpg
Views:	306
Size:	57.3 KB
ID:	142333   Click image for larger version

Name:	Backs ready for painting & labels V2.jpg
Views:	278
Size:	81.7 KB
ID:	142334   Click image for larger version

Name:	Backs labelled and painted V2 edited.jpg
Views:	273
Size:	67.1 KB
ID:	142335   Click image for larger version

Name:	SLOT DIMENSIONS - RADIO BACK PANELS V2.jpg
Views:	230
Size:	43.3 KB
ID:	142336   Click image for larger version

Name:	Murphy U198H Replica back.jpg
Views:	309
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	142337  

__________________
David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club member 1339.
David G4EBT is online now  
Old 10th May 2017, 1:19 pm   #2
David G4EBT
Dekatron
 
David G4EBT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
Default Re: Making replica backs for radio with a DIY Router Jig

MAKING AND USING THE ‘UNIVERSAL JIG’:

Baseboard:

Pic 1 shows the underside of the baseboard, made from a pack of three chipboard loft panels.

Pic 2 shows the upper-side of the jig with the upper and lower Fixed Guide Panels in place, between which the back panel blank will slide sideways.

Pic 3 The Lateral Guide Panels:

For the slots to be spaced accurately between each other, two 'lateral guide panels’ are made from the same material as the new back, (3mm hardboard or MDF), each to fit either end of the blank back panel. These guide panels are held in place with two 6mm dowels for each panel. By making the guide panels 33 cms long (13”), up to twenty-four 6mm (or ¼”) diam holes can be drilled in these panels at 12.5mm (1/2”) intervals to enable up to 24 slots to be cut in a blank back panel up to 34.5cms (13.5”) wide. Use a ‘lip and spur’ woodworking drill bit – NOT a standard metalworking bit, which is hopeless for drilling accurate holes in hardboard or MDF. (see pic 5). In making these two guide panels, they should be carefully marked out, temporarily taped together and accurately drilled as a pair so the holes of each panel match up exactly when held in place with the pairs of dowels on the jig.

The Router Sole Plate Guide - also shown in pic 3:

The sole plate guide restricts the movement of the router to that which is needed to cut the slot. The aperture in the sole plate guide allows the router to move up and down the 'Y' axis for 28mm, to cut a slot using a 6mm router bit. The guide is made from an off-cut of 10mm or 15mm MDF, using a jigsaw to cut an aperture to the shape of the footprint of the router soleplate but 28mm longer than that soleplate - the length of the slots to be cut in the new back panel.

This aperture must be accurately cut with no sideways play as the router moves up or down the soleplate guide. The greater the care in cutting this aperture, the greater will be the accuracy of the slots.

To cut slots shorter than 28mm – for example, 25mm or 18mm, a 3mm or 10mm ‘filler piece’ may be inserted into the aperture to limit the travel of the router by that extent. The 3mm filler piece can be made of layers of thick card glued together to the desired profile. These filler pieces are shown in pic 4, along with the other components of the jig. Pic 4 shows a blank for a DAC90A back panel with the last slot of the bottom row cut. As can be seen, the two lateral guide panels have been moved one hole at a time from right to left, with the four 6mm dowels holding the two guide panels in place.

If the sole plate guide is made to the dimensions stated, and the top edge is set to 4cms from the top of the baseboard, it should be possible to cut up to six rows of slots in a blank panel ranging from 2cms from the top of the panel to the top of first row, to 5cms from the bottom of the panel to the bottom of the last row. This may vary according to the size and shape of the router sole-plate.

To drill the screw holes at intervals to enable vertical spacings of 35, 38, 40 and 42mm, it is only necessary to accurately mark the series of holes in the top fixed guide panel. Then fit screws into each pair of holes at the top of the router sole plate guide and use a small drill to drill pilot holes for the corresponding pair of screws in the bottom fixed guide panel. This simplifies marking out and ensures that each set of four screw holes is accurately lined up.

Positioning the holes for the 6mm dowels on the jig:

With the router sole plate guide in place, insert a 30cms square blank back panel beneath the guide and position each lateral guide panel at either end of the back panel. Slide the three panels to the right until the first pair of holes of the LH panel are 16cms (6.25 inches) from the LH edge of the baseboard, and the first pair of holes of the RH panel are 20cms (7.75 inches) from the RH edge of the baseboard. Put the router in position with the bit lowered to just touch the blank panel. That should have set the first slot cutting position at 2.5cm (1 inch) from the LH edge of the blank panel.

A 30cm wide blank will allow rows of 21 slots to be cut, (as needed in the Wartime Civilian Receiver for example), allowing for 2.5cms at either end. If a blank panel of 34cms (13 inches) is used, it would allow rows of 24 slots to be cut, allowing for 2.5cms at either end of the panel. In that case, the holes in the baseboard for the two dowels for the LH guide panel will still need to be 16 cms from the LH edge of the baseboard, and the RH dowel holes will also need to be 16 cms from the RH edge. This isn’t as complicated as it may sound. With the blank back panel and the two guide panels in place, it becomes self evident where the dowel holes need to be drilled.

If all is well, drill 6mm holes in the baseboard through the far LH pair of holes of each lateral guide panel for the dowels to fit into. In use, the dowels need to be just loose enough to be easily removed and refitted with the fingers so as to move the guide panels and refit the dowels in their holes as each new slot is cut.

In use, as each slot in a row has been cut, the two lateral guide panels, along with the new back panel, are moved to the left (beneath the fixed router sole plate guide) one hole at a time on the dowels until all the slots in the first row have been cut. The sole plate guide is then repositioned lower down at the desired distance (from 35 - 42mm) for the particular panel being made, to enable the next row of slots to be cut, and the process repeated for any further rows of slots.

Positioning the router sole plate guide, lateral guide panels, and back panel blank:

To set up the jig, with the router switched off and unplugged, the router bit is lowered so as to just touch the blank, and locked at that depth. The router is placed in the sole plate guide with the router bit at the top of the first slot position on the blank. Mark the position of the router bit on the blank panel with pencil, then remove the blank and use that pencilled position as a reference point to draw the position of all the slots on the blank, to ensure that the slots will be correctly positioned where you want them on the blank.

Ideally, the complete pattern of all of the slots should be marked on the blank (perhaps using an old damaged back or one borrowed from another set as a template), so that slots are only cut in the correct positions on the blank. Because the jig can cater for up to 24 slots, it’s all too easy to inadvertently cut too many slots if fewer than 24 slots are needed, as will mostly be the case. This is especially important with back panels that have oddly spaced slots of different sizes, such as the Murphy U198 for example.

The sole plate guide is then screwed to the baseboard in a position which will enable the blank back panel and the two lateral guide panels to be progressively moved sideways along the ‘X’ axis beneath the sole plate guide to cut the first row of slots. Still with the router unplugged and the bit lowered, move the router up and down the sole plate guide to satisfy yourself that the guide is accurately positioned over the blank to cut the first slot where you want it. Then place the two lateral guide panels either side of the blank back panel, with the two dowels in each panel pushed through the appropriate holes in the guide panels.

When satisfied that the lateral guide panels and router sole plate guide are correctly aligned to cut the first row of slots, with the router still switched off, plunge the router downwards, and set the depth stop on the router so as to just cut through the blank, but not into the baseboard. Plug in the router, position it at the top of the sole plate guide, switch on, plunge the router into the blank and pull the router towards you to the end of the guide to cut the first slot, and then allow the bit to retract and switch off the router. When the router has stopped, put it aside and reposition the blank by moving it and the two lateral guide panels one place to the left on the pairs of dowels.

Repeat this process until the entire first row of slots has been cut. To cut a slot and reposition the guide panels to cut the next slot takes no more than thirty seconds, so once the jig is set up, to cut a row of 20 slots should take about ten to fifteen minutes.

To cut the next row of slots, reposition the router sole plate guide lower down on the baseboard in the correct screw-holes for the vertical spacing, from 35mm to 42 mm, as called for by the particular back, and screw the sole plate guide into position, repeating the procedure used for cutting the first row of slots, then do the same again for any further rows of slots, as called for. This process should become clearer by reference to the pictures.

It may sound an awful rigmarole, but one the concept is understood and the jig put into use, the process becomes very straightforward. If a mistake is made and a back panel is trashed, all that it's cost is a 25 pence piece of hardboard and your time.

Some backs have horizontal slots and I'll explain in another post how to do that with a router.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Universal jig - Underside of baseboard fig 4..jpg
Views:	189
Size:	90.8 KB
ID:	142355   Click image for larger version

Name:	Universal Jig - Upperside of  Baseboard, fig 5.jpg
Views:	197
Size:	83.9 KB
ID:	142356   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sole plate guide and lateral guide panels V2.jpg
Views:	185
Size:	54.3 KB
ID:	142359   Click image for larger version

Name:	All components of the slot cutting jig labelled, with DAC90A blank in place V2.jpg
Views:	224
Size:	83.2 KB
ID:	142361   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lip & Spur drill bits V2.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	96.8 KB
ID:	142362  

__________________
David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club member 1339.
David G4EBT is online now  
Old 10th May 2017, 2:39 pm   #3
David G4EBT
Dekatron
 
David G4EBT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
Default Re: Making replica backs for radio with a DIY Router Jig

Few radio backs are rectangular and if an odd shaped back is called for (circular, sloping sides, curved top etc), as is the case with sets such as the Murphy U198, Bush DAC90A Portadyne Princess etc, the blank must start out rectangular to fit the jig, then when all the slots have been routed out, the board is cut to the desired shape using a cardboard template of the shape of the back panel in question.

Occasionally backs may have horizontal slots and slots of more than one length - the Murphy ‘U198’ for example has both 28mm and 18mm slots. In that case, as earlier explained, a 10mm ‘filler piece’ will need to be put into the aperture in the router sole plate guide when the shorter slots are cut, to limit the travel of the router to cut those shorter slots. Pic 1 below shows 3mm and 10mm filler pieces to limit the travel of the router in the guide from 28mm to cut either 25mm or 18mm slots if need be.

Cutting horizontal slots:

As the slots in the Murphy U198 panel are horizontal, the blank panel was placed on its end in the jig so that the slots could be cut from top to bottom in the router guide. In effect, the back is cut ‘portrait’ fashion rather than ‘landscape’ as shown in pic 2 below. The shorter (18mm) slots are cut with the 10mm ‘filler piece’ in place in the sole plate guide - for the longer 28mm slots the ‘filler piece’ is removed.

After the slots have been cut, the blank will need to be shaped either on a band-saw or with a fretsaw, and several holes drilled for such things as the wave-change switch, mains lead and mounting holes, but the router takes care of the tricky stuff!

Cutting other slots:

Occasionally it will be necessary to cut additional slots of odd lengths in positions not catered for by the jig. This was the case with the Portadyne Princess and Noble receivers, in which a 75mm horizontal slot was needed beneath the vertical ones, so a simple horizontal guide was made for that, and is shown in pics 3, 4 & 5. The new back panel was held in place on a baseboard by strips of hardboard and the position of the slot was marked on the new back panel. With the router positioned at one end of where the slot is to be cut, strips of wood were then screwed to the baseboard to guide the router and to limit the travel of to allow the 75mm slot to be cut. Pic 3 shows the slot position marked, pic 4 shows the router in place ready to be moved to the right to cut the slot, pic 5 shows the finished slot.

Finishing touches - painting and labelling the panels:

Most panels are dark brown, so to paint the backs I’ve made to date I’ve used ‘tester pots’ of brown matt emulsion paint from DIY stores. Homebase ‘Double Espresso’ or Wilko ‘Java Bean’ are a reasonable match, and will be enough to give two coats to two or three small back panels. If the colour is too light, a small amount of black can be used to darken it. The paint may also need to be watered down a little. When painted, I created and printed labels as close as I could to what the original labels consisted of, then sprayed the labels with clear lacquer to make them waterproof and fixed them with wallpaper ‘border paste’.

In some instances labels were made from scans of actual backs – in others, I’ve designed a label by choosing a font as close to the original wording as I could find. In the case of the Wartime Civilian Receiver, (artwork kindly provided by Tony Thompson - 'Aerodyne'), I aged some paper by soaking it momentarily in strong black coffee, then ironing it dry between two sheets of kitchen roll.

Safety precautions:

It must be stressed that working with a router poses several hazards for which precautions must be taken if accidents are to be prevented. The router bit revolves at about 30,000 RPM, and the router must be switched off after each slot is cut, and the bit fully retracted and at a standstill before placing it down ready for positioning in the guide for the next slot to be cut.

Routers are very noisy, and MDF produces hazardous dust, so it makes sense to wear ear defenders, goggles and a dust mask. The term ‘dust mask’ does not include the disposable ‘nuisance dust’ white paper masks, whose only purpose seems to be to fool one’s loved ones into believing that we are taking sensible precautions. These masks fall far short of what is required when working with MDF or when woodturning or sanding. Face masks for working with MDF should be to P2 standard, and are widely available. Don’t use your lungs as a dust filter!

I hope these rather wordy posts will enable anyone who wishes to, to make a router jig along similar lines for their needs to make acceptable replica backs. A jig can be much larger if desired - I'm mainly only interested in smaller sets, but a jig could just as easily be made for sets such as the circular Ekcos, or the AC77 and so forth.

As I said at the outset, for anyone who doesn't already have a router, making these panels places little load on the router, so the cheapest DIY/Aldi/Lidl offering will be well up to the task.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Filler pieces 10mm & 3mm V2.jpg
Views:	164
Size:	51.6 KB
ID:	142363   Click image for larger version

Name:	Murphy U198 showing back on end to cut slots &  42mm slot spacing V2.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	73.8 KB
ID:	142365   Click image for larger version

Name:	Portadyne horizontal slot jig pic 1 V2.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	142366   Click image for larger version

Name:	Portadyne horizontal slot jig pic 2 V2.jpg
Views:	158
Size:	65.8 KB
ID:	142367   Click image for larger version

Name:	Portadyne horizontal slot jig 3 V2.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	142368  

__________________
David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club member 1339.
David G4EBT is online now  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 5:13 pm.


All information and advice on this forum is subject to the WARNING AND DISCLAIMER located at https://www.vintage-radio.net/rules.html.
Failure to heed this warning may result in death or serious injury to yourself and/or others.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright ©2002 - 2023, Paul Stenning.