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Old 19th Feb 2013, 5:21 pm   #1
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Default Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Because of my change of hobbies I've not been on the forum for a while but a couple of weeks ago I became fed up whilst trying to install a clutch into my Jubilee wood-turning lathe; every time I went to the garage I got soaked with rain; snowed on or blown around by wind so I wanted something I could do in comfort.

David (David G4EBT) had very kindly given to me as a gift this Barker 88 it being a "woody". David had got the set working but he thought I might like to play around with the cabinet a bit as the cabinet was bland in appearance totally lacking character; the cabinet was in good condition but David had warned me the veneer to the top curve had rubbed through and looking at the cabinet it really did look somber.

I carried the set into the workshop and it only took a few minutes to remove everything leaving the cabinet bare allowing me to inspect it more closely. The finish was very smooth but without shine and if there was any decent veneer it was well hidden. Initially I was at a loss as to what to do; the shape was rather plain and would it benefit from a strip and new French polish? More rubbing with abrasive paper would be sure to aggravate the thin veneer problem to the curve; David had already said if I didn't think it to be worth a lot of effort that he wouldn't be offended in the least if I decided not to go ahead?

With ice and lots of snow outside I still wanted something to occupy me so why not give this a go. I decided to experiment with this cabinet; what if I could re-veneer it using some top class veneer; after all I have now converted my workshop for woodworking. The finish on this cabinet was thick and very tough but after three sessions using a cabinet scraper it was reduced to bare veneer; this veneer wasn't at all bad it being walnut and had the veneer not been rubbed through on the curve it would possibly have responded favourably to a decent French polishing.

Whilst stripping the finish I had been browsing eBay and bought four pieces of top quality Burr Walnut costing £29 inc P&P. This would be used to cover both front and top panels; I had some plainer veneer in stock for both side panels. Ideally a single sheet of Burr Walnut would have been best but a sheet of this size if I could find one would cost well in excess of £50. The plan was to "quarter" match the Burr.

I've successfully done veneering previously but never used Burr Walnut and to make it even more difficult Hot Hide Glue would be used with a traditional veneering hammer. I was fully aware Burr veneers are very difficult to lay and to make it even more interesting this Burr would need laying around a curve; at this point I knew I was in for some grief. A few hours were spent surfing the web and "You tube" looking for advice or information on how to lay this veneer but as I wanted to use the hammer method I was totally on my own; perhaps this can't be done at all?

The Burr Walnut arrived safely and was a joy to behold; it was also very buckled and looked full of mischief. I had also bought a 400m roll of proper paper veneering tape. There was no going back now so I gathered the few tools and mixed up some hide glue. Not wanting to remove the veneer to the side panels I could save a lot of time and effort by simply cross veneering? The top and front panels could simply be veneered over because the Burr Walnut didn't have straight grain to worry about. All the surfaces to be veneered were roughed using coarse abrasive paper with a backing wooden block then dusted off.

Both side panels were easy to veneer as the veneer was well behaved and after wetting then hot ironing the veneer was quickly laid without problem. The cabinet was then left overnight for the glue to set. I had allowed too much extra whilst cutting the veneer and this was a problem to trim away; in the end I ran the router around with a flush cutting bearing guided cutter installed making a very neat job of it.

Using 1000g wallpaper lining paper templates were very accurately drawn and cut out of the four quarters. The Burr was arranged on a cutting board and the pattern matched then the joints were trued. Using the templates the Burr was cut oversize allowing about 1/4" on the outside and cutting the openings 1/4" smaller to allow for adjustment during lay up.

The electric iron was switched on at its highest setting; a bucket of warm clean water with clean rag was placed on the bench and the hide glue was put on the hotplate. A large off-cut of 18mm thick MDF was placed on the bench and now the first piece of Burr was soaked with warm water and rag; this now really looked bad as the Burr curled up and buckled even more; I thought it was going to walk out of the workshop; it took a number of wetting's and hot ironing's to tame the Burr and to get it to lay flat; the other three pieces were treated in like manner so now all I had to do was to lay them?

I had given a great deal of thought into how to lay this Burr around the curve and came up with an idea to try out. The Burr I thought would possible become damaged whilst being formed around the curve without support? I didn't have shaped cauls or a press neither do I own a vacuum veneering bag all I had was the hammer. My idea was to attach a length of clean cotton cloth to two wooden battens using adhesive which I did; the Burr joint would be aligned with a pencil guide line drawn vertically up the front and across the top panels on the cabinet; the cabinet would receive a generous coat of hide glue then the section to the top of the cabinet would be laid as normal using the hammer; with this done the cloth could be wetted and one of the battens clamped across the rear edge of the top panel allowing the second batten to be grasped in my left hand drawing the cloth horizontally forward applying tension and still with tension applied drop my hand with the batten forcing the cloth into tight contact with the curve bringing the Burr with it; my right hand could then use the hot iron to apply heat and to follow up with the hammer?

I couldn't believe it; this worked like a dream and the first piece of Burr was laid? I just knew this was too good to be true; what I hadn't realized was that all the wetting and hot ironing had considerably stretched the Burr so now it didn't line up with the openings; what a dilemma and I could have screamed but instead panic set in; I would have to remove the Burr and re-position it? It was a struggle but now with the Burr laid the previously accurately cut joints were lost; cutting a new joint in veneer on a flat panel is quite easy; overlap the veneer and using a straightedge run the knife down; remove the top waste; lift the upper veneer and remove the lower waste then hammer the joint home; dead simple really but what about cutting such a joint around a curve in Burr Walnut? I did my best; the top panel ended up with a perfect joint but around the curve suffered leaving an unsightly gap but I would have to sort this out later as I was already in enough trouble.

To cut a very long story short I eventually laid all four Burr pieces. I had laid three of the pieces when I noticed the electric iron was still on its highest setting so I lowered the setting to about half; I wasn't at all amused when the iron suddenly welded itself to the veneer? Now I had a radio cabinet with an electric iron firmly attached to its front panel so the job should have ended here in failure? In desperation I looked around the workshop and noticed a wooden handled scraper with a very thin gauge blade; I grabbed this and forced the blade between iron sole and the Burr forcing them apart. this really was bad news for my nerves but what a surprise it worked; I then cleaned the iron only to once again repeat this stupid mistake; with the iron free once again I introduced grease proof paper between iron and veneer finally laying the last piece of Burr. Fortunately I had managed to match the Burr pattern very accurately to the top panel and although the pattern was mostly lost to the lower joints it didn't look too bad. Due to all the problems the Burr was showing some distress with a number of small pieces now missing. With a huge sigh of relief the Burr was now laid and cabinet would be put aside to dry.

I fully expected trying to veneer the curve to be the hardest part but in fact it was the two large openings which proved to be a major test of my patience. The centre point of the veneer pattern fell within one of these openings and I found it impossible to trim the excess veneer once it had been laid and was still wet.

As the workshop would cool quickly I carried the cabinet into the warmth of the hall and left it there a couple of hours whilst I relaxed and watched TV. At bed time I was keen to see how the veneer was drying out so switched on the light and could have cried; as the veneer had been drying it had released breaking the glue bond to a large section on the front panel tearing and curling up badly so once again was the cabinet heading for the skip?

This project is still ongoing but I'm learning a great deal whilst gaining experience; rather than try to cram everything into a short post I'll do my best to give plenty of information because veneering information is scarce on UK radio forums. I'm only human and wonder just how much frustration I could stand?

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 19th Feb 2013, 5:50 pm   #2
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

A tour de force, I use slow set araldite and an iron for veneering, when it gets hot it sets leaving the rest liquid for the next bit. Also the non water based nature of Araldite doesn't warp the veneer. I can't wait for the next instalment.
 
Old 19th Feb 2013, 7:13 pm   #3
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Rather you than me Col I think that I would given in by now, but it's nearly there.

When I re-veneered mine I used flat veneer but it was still tricky.

Good luck, Mick.
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Old 19th Feb 2013, 10:08 pm   #4
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

And just for fun...
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Old 19th Feb 2013, 11:29 pm   #5
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Its interesting to learn you use Araldite Merlinmaxwell; how do you get on with buckled veneer and do you have problems with Araldite contamination if you wish to stain because Araldite won't accept stain? Have you tried laying Burr veneer using Araldite? Thanks for posting and for the picture. I like to hear how others do similar jobs.

Well done Mick your cabinet looks nicely veneered with excellent joints; what method did you use for laying the veneer and do you have a picture of the completed cabinet please?

I knew veneering using Burr Walnut would not be a push over and already thus far it's badly bitten me twice each time bad enough to see this project come to an abrupt stop had I not been determined enough to try to salvage it each time.

It was soul destroying looking at the curled Burr laughing at my ignorance; I wasn't beaten though with still a lot of fight left in me. The cabinet was carried into the workshop again and dumped on the bench; if it wanted war then war it would have. The burr had pulled away from one of the openings and I believe this was possibly caused by glue starvation; the amount of water used and having too much excess burr overhanging just waiting to curl as it dried which of course it did.

More fresh hide glue was heated up; the warm water and rag was made ready but now for a plan of action. Simply to re-glue the offending Burr would possibly end with the same disaster? I wrapped a length of 2"x1" planed softwood in grease proof paper ensuring at least two layers. Speed clamps were adjusted as I was going to defeat this problem. Warm water was applied to the buckled Burr using the rag then the electric iron now on its highest setting was pressed down firmly giving out hissing sounds. With the Burr once again behaving it was lifted and fresh hide glue was introduced flooding the glue into the joint; this time the joint would not be glue starved. The Burr was quickly re-laid using the hammer but taking care not to squeeze out all the glue then a quick wipe to remove excess glue and follow up with the paper wrapped softwood clamping this as tightly as I could in position; now lets see this veneer let go once the glue sets overnight?

The following morning I took a deep breath whilst releasing the clamps; this time all was well; the burr was well and truly laid. What a relief but also this demonstrated just how good hide glue is for this kind of work.

The cabinet actually looked a mess with lots of excess veneer to trim; this excess had grown from the initial 1/4" to around 3/4" and it was now once again fragile having dried out. Using a steel engineers rule and knife the knife was run along the cut three or four times but once the knife began to cut through the Burr closed on it grabbing the blade with great risk of causing damage so another method of trimming was called for? I had used the router successfully to trim the side veneers so once again the router was pressed into service and made a neat job of trimming the outer excess Burr. Now for the dreaded openings which were giving so much trouble. The mouldings around both openings was nothing more that quadrant profile simply being rounded over but as the excess Burr was covering the moulding and the moulding not having a clearly defined shoulder this was a real problem; cutting into space distorted the Burr and to cut in the wrong position would ruin the job? All this was bad enough but to compound the problems there was the squeezed out hardened glue between waste Burr and the moulding.

In anticipation of problems at this stage I had taken the opportunity of cutting out two 18mm thick MDF template guides before starting to veneer; two pieces of MDF were cut then in turn they where located by hand inside the cabinet and the openings carefully drawn around. These were then cut out as accurately as I could using the big Startrite band-saw; the internal cut was also done using the band-saw as a lead in cut wouldn't be a problem. Coarse abrasive paper and backing block tidied the cuts.

Once again the router came to my rescue; with the straight flush cutting bearing guided bit installed depth was adjusted allowing the bearing to locate the bottom of the moulding and running the router around trimmed everything flush whilst still leaving about 1/4" of Burr plus glue to remove but this was a good start. Using the knife a small section of the moulding was revealed allowing selection of the correct cutter profile (rounding over) which was installed in the router; at this stage it was a case of all or nothing; using the knife would cause a lot of damage and my options were very limited.

Both MDF router guides were accurately secured inside the cabinet using double sided adhesive tape; the depth of cut was adjusted to allow the bearing to locate against the guide but only to kiss the edge of the Burr; the router was run around both openings and all was well; now the excess Burr and glue could be removed in increments. The thickness of the engineers steel rule looked about right so the router turret stop was adjusted to nip the rule then the rule withdrawn; the depth of cut was now set against the turret which dropped the cutter the thickness of the rule and again the router was run around both openings; a lot of care was taken not to tip the router during each cut and after dropping a number of increments the router cleaned the mouldings a treat but this wasn't enough for me I now wanted extra; the final depth of cut was to remove the thickness of the Burr thus giving a really neat clean shoulder. Using the router was a gamble but it paid off and now at last the Burr Walnut was fully laid and trimmed to perfect size; a going over with 240g abrasive paper and backing block smoothed all the edges dead flush. Taking the time to cut the two router guides was an inspiration and saved me no end of hassle. I knew the router would either work very well indeed or very quickly render this cabinet trashed?

Hopefully the drawings will help to explain better the problems encountered with the excess veneer in the openings.

As you say Mick its nearly there but more yet to follow.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 9:32 am   #6
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Very informative as usual your patience is endless, it will look fantastic when finished.Mick.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 10:26 am   #7
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Quote:
how do you get on with buckled veneer
I tend to assemble the whole sheet first on some low tack sheet, glueing the joins with PVA. If it is warped I put it under pressure (in a book etc.) for a while.

Quote:
and do you have problems with Araldite contamination if you wish to stain because Araldite won't accept stain?
Doing it as a glued whole sheet the Araldite doesn't come through.

Quote:
Have you tried laying Burr veneer using Araldite?
No, can't justify the expense!
 
Old 20th Feb 2013, 12:44 pm   #8
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Many thanks Mick for our kind words.

Many thanks also merlinmaxwell for your explanations as to how you lay your veneer using Araldite which is most interesting. Are you aware that PVA adhesive can be used in exactly the same way as you use Araldite? The PVA is applied to both the item to be veneered and the glue side of the veneer ensuring a decent coverage then the PVA is allowed to dry. Now the two parts can be brought together and bonded using a hot iron and roller or veneer hammer; I have been aware of this method for a while but recently a more detailed explanation was found and it is well worth knowing.

Now the veneering was completed it would be easy to apply the finish? As usual my preferred finish is shellac (French polish). I always have a stock of shellac in the regular colours; Button; Garnet and Blonde. Each of these would impart a different finish with the Garnet being the darkest hiding a multitude of sins to the Blonde which is mostly clear. I've not used the Blonde before so thought it would be good to experiment a bit on this cabinet but firstly comes the preparation.

The cabinet was sanded to 240g using abrasive paper backed with a wooden block. Care was taken at both sides to flat with the grain but direction of flatting on the Burr wasn't a worry. The curve was very gently flatted after all I didn't want to cut through this Burr. The cabinet was dusted off then double checked for any blemishes. Stain would not be used because I've previously been caught out badly whilst applying stain to mixed contrasting veneer when all the veneer ended up the same colour losing the contrast. At this stage I didn't bother about the joint gaps or bits of missing Burr.

The cabinet was given a coat of Raw Linseed Oil applied with a soft cloth to bring the colour out and this is always a high point in such a restoration as it gives a good indication as to what the cabinet will look like once completed; it looked good. Excess oil was quickly removed and the cabinet given a good buffing with a clean soft cloth. The idea is to simply bring out the colour not to apply an oiled finish. The cabinet was then put away for a day keeping it warm to allow the oil to completely dry.

I spend a lot of time on the web and on "You tube" looking for ideas and information and I had noticed in America Alcohol is preferred for mixing the shellac but this Alcohol must be at least 90% pure. Previously I've only ever used Methylated Spirit so as I'm keen to learn and try new ideas I visited our local pharmacy; for anyone wanting a laugh try asking at a pharmacy for pure Alcohol; the pharmacy staff must have thought they were talking to a raving alcoholic; anyway I tried. Back home I found lots of Alcohol on eBay at 99.99% pure for 5ltr and at £20.50 including next day delivery I quickly had the Alcohol which will last a long time. Blonde De-Waxed Shellac flakes were placed in a clean jam jar and alcohol poured in to twice the depth of the flakes. Over the next four hours I kept giving the jar a vigorous shaking ensuring the lid was securely attached and each time my fingers kept pressure on the lid just to be safe. By the time I went to bed the shellac had almost fully dissolved which was good news.

Using a #2 artist's fan brush three heavy flowing coats of shellac were applied to the cabinet; this didn't take long because the shellac dries quickly but then the cabinet was left overnight to allow the shellac to fully harden. The shellac had now sealed the veneer grain but not fully filled it. Using 240g abrasive paper the shellac was gently flatted taking car at edges not to cut through. Now the open joints and many cracks in the veneer could be filled using Rustin's oak coloured filler. This filler dries slowly and was sanded smooth but it now looked a mess showing up very badly indeed; I'm hopelessly colour blind but even to me I knew it couldn't be left like this. Bronwyn kindly gave me two tubes of her artist's acrylic paint to play with these being; Daler Rowney Permanence Buff Titanium 024 System 3 Acrylic and Daler Rowney 223 Burnt Umber Series A Permanence Cryla.

Mixing the colours on a margarine tub lid I spent ages touching in all the filler trying to match the grain pattern best I could but eventually it looked rather good and I was very pleased with my efforts. Two more heavy brush coats of shellac were applied and again the cabinet was left overnight. The next day more flatting followed which was upsetting as the job bit me again; the flatting removed a lot of the paint? To make matters even worse there were still many open cracks which had refused to fill with shellac.

In desperation I selected a tube of water based buff coloured filler but had the great idea of mixing some of the Burnt Umber paint to darken it? Using a narrow scraper filled in all the offending cracks; now the cabinet looked ill. Once the filler dried it was sanded flush using paper and block. Adding the paint didn't work because the buff colour took dominance again showing up very badly. No way could I now touch in so many bits of filler using the brush and paint. A new plan was called for and as I was thinking I had another bit of inspiration pop into my head; mixing a suitable colour a piece of clean cloth was wrapped around a finger and dipping this into the paint the paint was rubbed into the offending areas of filler; I had gambled that the filler being bare would grab the paint whereas the shellac would reject it; it worked brilliantly and suddenly most of the filler disappeared into the background. Fortunately the joints which had been touched in with the brush still looked good so at last positive progress was being made. Although I'm colour blind I found mixing the two colours dead easy; a few years ago I had attempted such a touch up using dark brown and white acrylic; I expected the white when mixed with the brown to give various shades of brown from light to dark; well it didn't; I don't know what colour mixing the two produced but it was most unexpected. The Buff and Umber though worked well together.

Rather than apply more brush coats of shellac I switched to using a traditional French polishing rubber as this would leave a smoother surface requiring very little if any flatting. Using the rubber the thickness of shellac was built up over a day before it became tacky then again the cabinet was put away overnight.

The following morning I finally had a good look at the cabinet and it was by now looking as expected; the shellac had gone on well leaving only swirl marks but now I was faced with a big decision; I had been wondering all through this project what kind of finish to give the cabinet; the Burr Walnut furniture I've always seen has been finished to a mirror shine but would this be over the top for this cabinet making the cabinet look as if it had just come out of the factory brand new? Would it look better with a hand rubbed "matt" finish? I could try the matt finish and if not happy could always give it a mirror finish.

Again I faced more problems. The shellac had dried OK but it still would not be hard and if I attacked it using fine (0000) wire wool the wool would possibly leave deep scratches? I've only ever successfully achieved a nice hand rubbed finish and that time I used wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin but having got to this point perhaps a gentler option would be better. I decided to use 1200g abrasive paper lubricated with talcum powder without backing block to give me better feel. An hour later with aching arms the cabinet was flatted and looking extremely dull with only a few glossy marks where the shellac had sunk. Ideally I would have liked to go over with a liquid paraffin soaked cloth but dare not because the oil would likely contaminate the mouldings and foot which were to be painted?

I would have to apply the paint first. The paint finish I wanted was to be Auto Acrylic Satin Black but when I checked the spray can was almost empty but I also had a part filled spray can of gloss black acrylic. The cabinet was very carefully masked using lining paper and masking tape then the black gloss was applied; both mouldings and long front foot had been sealed with shellac and flatted so the paint went on well. Two coats of gloss were applied allowing the first coat to flash off. With the gloss flashed off then the Satin was applied again giving two coats. 30 minutes later the masking was very carefully removed taking a lot of care not to remove and shellac.

Now the cabinet was given a good going over with a cloth soaked in liquid paraffin; this in turn was then buffed vigorously using a soft dry cloth and boy did it look good? All the troubles and hassles encountered during this project fell away from me as I stared in disbelief at the cabinet; it not only now looked wonderful it was a pleasure to stroke it; the matt finish suits it making it look as if it has received half a century of TLC by a loving owner. This is what woodworking is for me. The satin black gives the cabinet a richness. This is the project now fully up to date; the set needs the "works" installing to complete the project and over the next few days I hope to post the final pictures.

Laying Burr Walnut using hot hide glue and hammer is after all possible and in this respect I've gained a great deal of useful knowledge and experience; many times during this project I've felt like jumping up and down on this cabinet to destroy it and put it out of my misery once and for all but I overcame such impulses and with each disaster I became even more determined to find solutions to the many problems after all I started this project simply to experiment; had it gone straightforward I think I would have been bored. So far its only taken a good couple of weeks but not all this time has been spent on this project; with my newly gained experience I'm sure if I do such a project again I'll be well informed as to what to expect and do. One thing is certain; I would never in future cut out dry veneer to size; I would wet and iron it flat before marking and cutting thus avoiding many of the problems thrown up during this project; I've learnt a lot and I'm happy to pass on my long rambling notes hoping to prevent others making the same mistakes as I have. The harder these projects are the more I like them; I must be barking mad?

The pictures show the two router cutters used; the cabinet with filler applied looking ill; the cabinet ready for finishing; raw linseed oil applied and ready for final assembly.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 1:27 pm   #9
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Well Col you have made a boring old cabinet into a thing of beauty, you a so right to be proud, what a wonderful job, it is truly unique.
some very good tips and do's and dont's thanks Col .Mick.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 1:50 pm   #10
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

A staggeringly good result, Colin, and no hanging around either. I want to come and stroke it too!

I wish I had the skills, as I have several ugly old sets which would take pride of place in the living room if they looked like that.

N.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 2:34 pm   #11
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Here's the story of my first, and only so far, attempt at veneering a cabinet.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=67880

Hi Col, you have seen this one before. Superb job you have done there, the finished cabinet is great.

Dave

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Old 20th Feb 2013, 3:35 pm   #12
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Thank you both so much Mick and Nick for your compliments they are much appreciated. I thought it would be a shame not to share this story because there is little veneering or finishing information at the very basic level for novices.

I am learning all the time in fact it is interesting to learn merlinmaxwell lays his veneer using Araldite successfully. This and my other restorations turn our OK only because I'm so stubborn and never know when to quit when things go badly wrong; I believe I possess more patience than skill both of which are gained through practice whilst making the many mistakes to be made. I'm like any other guy and fall into every black hole and trap these projects throw my way but overcoming the problems is the interesting bit; many give up and walk away when things get out of hand but it is such times when most is learnt.

I must confess that although this cabinet has turned out as I saw it in my head it is not exactly as I planned it because as I've stated I intended this project as something to experiment with. I've been interested in veneer inlay motifs for some time and would love to have a go at such work; my plan was to add a really nice decorative fan inlay to the center of the top panel; I was to fully veneer first then cut the recess to add the inlay but after discussing this with a friend who is a very well respected radio restorer we both agree adding such an inlay would possibly detract rather than add to the cabinet?

This doesn't mean I've abandoned the inlay idea because I'm keen to have a go but the inlay will be used on another project. I won't buy the inlay but I'll have a go at making my own and this is already well advanced. I'm becoming more proficient in using CAD which is another subject that has driven me mad for many years as I tried to get to grips with it. My breakthrough with CAD came about when I downloaded free of charge EMS CAD (emachineshop). This CAD program is wonderful and I could at last understand how to draw a straight line; the delightful tutor Aurora explains each step so clearly in the video tutorials making learning CAD a pleasure. The drawings already shown were produced using EMS quite quickly. I've also practiced and have successfully drawn the fan motif changing the style and spacing's slightly just for interest; below is the drawing and what such a fan looks like.

I've also gathered everything I need to make such an inlay; hot sand shading is used so I've obtained silver sand and Bron has kindly given me a shallow baking tin to heat the sand in; a single electric hotplate will supply the heat and I have some suitable veneer to hand. I'm not smart or clever but I use each project as a stepping stone allowing me to gain experience and to try out ideas and new techniques; it doesn't take long before the basics are grasped leading to more ambitious projects.

You say you don't have the skills Nick; are you sure? Why not pull out one of your "ugly old sets" and have a go at transforming it into a swan; I'm sure if you have a go you will amaze yourself especially now that I've made most of the silly mistakes showing how not to go about it. Very few tools are required and practicing with plainer veneer won't bankrupt you; hide glue is cheap enough; an electric iron can be bought cheaply I think mine cost something like £5 from Argos. Veneer can be bought through eBay and the set costs you nothing because you already have it. I would enjoy sharing notes and experiences with someone else trying to do their first veneering job; you certainly won't be bored.

The pictures below show the two MDF router guides; the fan inlay motif I wish to copy and the drawings produced using EMS CAD; these drawings can be easily adjusted for size. The single fan drawing is the master and the lines have been extended for cutting purposes also a box surround has been added for alignment on the job.The more I learn the less I seem to know but in this one project you can see my progress. I truly hope my story encourages others to have a go; success is sure to follow if enough effort is put in.

Hopefully the workshop will have warmed up by now.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 5:55 pm   #13
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

With the PVA I make a whole sheet in lazy comfort at the kitchen table (just gluing the edges). And when dry on the next day it's up to the workshop with the iron and Araldite.
 
Old 20th Feb 2013, 6:13 pm   #14
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Thanks Dave; yes I saw your thread and I posted on it a couple of times whilst I followed your story. You made a lovely job of veneering the cabinet in spite of a few troubles along the way demonstrating that it is possible to do a good veneering job at the first attempt; your set turned out very well in the end; well done.

Thanks for the information merlinmaxwell. Do you simply apply the PVA to the joints freehand? One tip I came across was to fully tape both veneers along the joint line with the joint butted up tightly then to open the veneers book fashion to open the joint and then run some waterproof PVA into the joint before closing the joint; the tape ensures the joint remains perfectly in-line until the PVA sets. Excess PVA must be wiped away using a damp cloth.

I think I'm in for some fun whilst attempting to glue up my first inlay fan motif and possibly gluing the joints with PVA might be the best way to go.

I've previously used gummed brown paper parcel tape for veneering but for this Barker I splashed out on proper veneering paper tape this costing something like £9.50 for a 400m roll delivered. this roll should last a while? I've just placed this roll of tape into a plastic bag to keep it clean. The workshop has now been tidied out ready for re-assembling this set.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 21st Feb 2013, 1:30 am   #15
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Good to see you back with yet another interesting read! Maybe this should now be a "Success Story" as well as a cabinet restoration help one.

So far as the cabinet goes, my only comment has to be "Woof woof" with plenty of tail wagging to match!
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Old 21st Feb 2013, 12:05 pm   #16
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Do you simply apply the PVA to the joints freehand?
Yes, using a finger.
 
Old 21st Feb 2013, 12:09 pm   #17
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi Col, Yet another excellent restoration. I hope you will bring it to the Golborne meeting April 7th.
John.
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Old 21st Feb 2013, 11:32 pm   #18
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Hi,

Thanks Chris; yes I'm back but only briefly as I'll be doing other projects "off topic" shortly although if I do more cabinets I'll be pleased to share my stories.

Using your finger merlinmaxwell isn't exactly high tech but cheap and if it works which it obviously does for you then why not?

That's kind of you John thank you. Regarding attending Golborne meetings; it's unlikely as I changed my hobbies last year and now do little with radio this Barker being a one off to pass a bit of time during bad weather when I can't get into the garage; I've got lots of work and projects stacked up so I won't be bored and I'm busy on other forums.

The Barker is finally finished as I've put it all back together today and taken more pictures. It's only taken about three weeks in total during which time I thought the world and the set was against me completing this project.

I've suffered terrible weather preventing me from working on the set some days because it was too depressing; family illness which of course takes precedence and is now thankfully history; various interruptions and the set itself constantly at war with me

All my restoration projects throw up lots of problems and this Barker really made me work to gain success but what joy it gives when after a prolonged fight a restoration turns out like this one. I only ever intended this project to be an experiment and learning curve because I didn't even know if I could lay Burr Walnut around a curve in fact I had doubts about laying this Burr on a flat panel using the hot hide glue with hammer method. I've not found any details on the web showing it being done this way neither did I find any videos on "You tube".

Just because I couldn't find any information didn't mean it couldn't be done but for me there was only one way to find out and this was to have a go. The materials didn't cost a great deal and if the Burr Walnut was destroyed I would only lose £29. The Alcohol; veneering tape and other items bought will last for many such veneering jobs so for such a small outlay I've had a great deal of fun and frustration.

Normally I would say if I can do a project such as this then anyone can because in real terms I'm still very much a novice. In my favour I've had some previous practice both with veneering and French polishing allowing me to gain valuable knowledge and experience; I even successfully veneered the curve on the Ekco T311 TV I restored but this was whilst using more controllable veneer. I doubt a complete novice would succeed if attempting to veneer for the first time using Burr Walnut but if like me the novice starts on easier projects then it doesn't take long to become more proficient with the techniques involved; I learn from each project as I have from this one.

For me the way to learn is to simply get stuck in and make all the silly mistakes; there is nothing to be scared about after all this project only involved bits of veneer and sloshing some shellac on with a brush but the finish is in the detail and although I say at times I could have destroyed this cabinet I have over the years gained a lot of restraint and patience. I certainly wasn't born with restraint or patience as both have been hard won.

I've tried to add a lot of detail and information as this project progressed; one thing I've tried to avoid is to make it look easy only showing when things were going right but I've added the problems I've faced and the solutions I came up with along the way. Every project is different but given the number of problems encountered I think it fair to say most veneering projects would be easier than this one.

I've now achieved what I set out to do and even though this was only an experiment I've ended up with a rather nice set to add to my collection but the main gain has been in knowledge and experience; this has been another stepping stone for me and as yet I'm undecided regarding my next project.

Today I've painted the inside of the cabinet and the back panel using "Black Magic" paint; this paint dries to a matt finish and was a pleasure to use; the pictures of the back panel show the original finish of the panel but with a single coat of this paint what a difference?

I tried buffing the Bakelite knobs in my hands whilst standing in the workshop but it was very tedious so I put my Eskimo gear on and went into the garage; it only took a few minutes to chuck a short 1/4" diameter rod in the wood-turning lathe then spin the knobs at speed bringing up a lovely shine.

The liquid paraffin applied to the cabinet has now dried back giving a matt finish but in a few days I might go over with some furniture wax to bring back the satin glow. I think it looks well as it is as it doesn't look factory fresh.

For anyone interested in veneering for the first time please don't be put off by the problems I've described; select a simple cabinet and use plain but decent veneer which will behave something like "Sapele" which is very easy to match the grain and to lay; once the basics are picked up then more ambitious projects can be tackled. There is little to lose but look at this Barker for a result in spite of most things going wrong; I'm no one special and I don't have any special skills; I think the mistakes I made have proved this as I now stand back and look at this set I say to myself "How the heck did I do this". Believe me with only a bit of practice you too could do such work.

Thanks everyone for your kind praise and support during this restoration; I've enjoyed this project.

The pictures show the original back cover finish; the original Barker and the Barker as it now is.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 21st Feb 2013, 11:53 pm   #19
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Default Re: Barker 88 veneering project.

Nice one, Col.

The cabinet now lives up to that rather spiffy tuning scale. An infinite improvement on sludge brown.

Odd that it's a left-handed set.

Mum and dad said the weather had been bad down in Almondbury.

David
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Old 22nd Feb 2013, 10:11 am   #20
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Using your finger merlinmaxwell isn't exactly high tech
Sorry it's a "resilient, multigrooved, adhesive applicator with force feedback"
 
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