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Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
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29th Dec 2012, 5:49 pm | #1 |
Heptode
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sheerness, Kent, UK.
Posts: 936
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HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
The first part of this posting dealt with the chassis for this radio and can be seen here:
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=90703 It is now time for the cabinet. This cabinet has been the host to woodworm earlier in its life although they are long gone as it was treated at the time. The main reason why the chassis was rusted and corroded as it was left in place when the woodworm treatment was applied. I’m not sure if the cabinet is as original or if some of the timber has been replaced. However it requires some repairs and the woodworm holes dealt with. First of the top of the cabinet is in 2 planks and the rear one had come lose so I removed it to enable the old glue to be removed. Also 2 feet were missing from the rear bottom edge. I made 2 replacement feet and glued them in place. I then added a support to the inside top of the cabinet to strengthen and support the joint between the 2 planks. This was glued and screwed into place then left to set. The rear plank was then glued into place and clamped up; it was also screwed to the center support. As original it was screwed to the cabinet left and right top moldings. That completed the repairs needed. I now have to clean the cabinet down and fill all the gaps in the woodwork joints and get everything nice and level. The main problem is what to do with the woodworm holes and how to fill and hide these. I have wood fillers in 3 colors Natural, Light and Dark, but it’s not easy to hide the filings. I have considered that I may fill the holes in the moldings, this is where the majority of holes are, and the sides with dark filler and then use a dark walnut varnish on the top and sides whilst leaving the front lighter, only a few holes here. But I’m not convinced this is the best way to approach the job. I have also considered veneering the cabinet but this is the expensive option and it would also cover up the joints that make up this cabinet unless I did it with joints in the veneer, not easy to do. Also the corners are rounded, again not easy to do as I know from previous experience. I have added some pictures of the cabinet showing the top plank to be fitted (1) and when it is fitted (4). Also one of the top and side showing the holes in the molding (2) and a side view (3). Hopefully the woodworm holes can be seen Hints and tips on the woodworm problem would be appreciated. Dave |
29th Dec 2012, 7:52 pm | #2 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 2,543
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Re: HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
Apart from the holes it looks to be in nice condition. Personally I'd just fill the holes with coloured wax and leave it at that
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30th Dec 2012, 1:26 pm | #3 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Westbury, Wiltshire, UK.
Posts: 2,451
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Re: HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
An old inkjet syringe filled with varnish may help do the job and get the varnish right inside but would be very boring (so to speak.)
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30th Dec 2012, 2:01 pm | #4 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Oxford, UK.
Posts: 17,846
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Re: HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
I agree with Dave.
That original finish looks lovely and is notoriously hard to replicate. Most home-applied finishes stick out like a sore thumb in my experience. Nick. |
30th Dec 2012, 10:46 pm | #5 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Worthing, West Sussex, UK
Posts: 5,185
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Re: HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
I agree, the original finish is too good to strip. I only strip the finish if it really is beyond help.
The woodworm holes should be easy to fill and stain. I have used wax crayons to fill the holes on my sets to great effect. Mark |
31st Dec 2012, 1:33 am | #6 | |
Heptode
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sheerness, Kent, UK.
Posts: 936
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Re: HMV 1107 Cabinet Refurbishing
Hi All,
I don't have a great deal of choice really as I have to sand the top down level as there is a step edge between the 2 boards, there must be a difference in the thickness between them. I don't know if it was like it before as the rear board was adrift anyway. There are also some other gaps I have to refill as what was there before has come out. Quote:
Dave |
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