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27th Oct 2006, 4:49 pm | #1 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Godalming, Surrey, UK.
Posts: 2,593
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Bent VTR103 aerial and tip removal.
Hello,
I was given this written off VTR103 today and it has a complete aerial, but the very tip is bent I think if I try and straighten it with the tip in place, the tip will break .... any suggestions on how to remove the plastic tip so that I can straighten that top section (or better still put the tip onto a straighter aerial which has no tip) ? Howard |
27th Oct 2006, 5:14 pm | #2 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Near Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Posts: 4,609
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Re: Bent VTR103 aerial
Hi Howard
Does the tip unscrew (they usually do)? Might be worth extending the tip and heating it slightly away from the plastic. Plan B - make a new tip? Plan C - bung it in the post to me!
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Mike. |
27th Oct 2006, 5:42 pm | #3 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Godalming, Surrey, UK.
Posts: 2,593
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Re: Bent VTR103 aerial
Hello Mike,
Plan A, nope, it won't unscrew, its stuck on tight ! I'll heat up the end section with my 35 watt soldering iron, that I think will soften the plastic so it might then come off intact. Plan B, I wish I could make some of these tips, one or two folk on the forum have said they'd have a go making new tips for these VTR103s but I didn't see any further postings from them ..... Plan C, Thanks. If Plan A fails then I'll take you up on that offer. Howard Last edited by Darren-UK; 7th Sep 2007 at 11:41 pm. Reason: Excessive use of emoticons. |
27th Oct 2006, 6:15 pm | #4 |
Heptode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ellington, Northumberland, UK.
Posts: 815
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Re: Bent VTR103 aerial
I hope you get this message before heating up the aerial! The tit on these aerials is moulded around the top section and that section has a little flat across it for that very purpose, so even if you heat it up, the tit will either start to melt or the rod will hang on to there until you dare not heat it any further.
Yes, I tried it and discovered that I was too slow to react at the precise point when the tit had melted enough that it may have been possible to get it off without damage. The wretched thing melted in a flash and had to be replaced with one made from polymorph that had some cochineal added to it in the melting stage. I formed it by hand as it was setting and from over, say, a foot away, you'd never know. Honestly, it's easier to weld aluminium than to get one of these darned things out alive! I've frequently achieved the former, the latter; let Mike's fingers recover from their Satellit-induced cramp and there's your answer.
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John. |
30th Oct 2006, 12:08 pm | #5 | |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 2,543
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Re: Bent VTR103 aerial
Quote:
Anyhow as to you immediate problem. I have to say that in my 'rough and ready' opinion and looking at the other damage, it seems that the tip was strong enough to survive a very traumatic experience! I'd be inclined to clamp two pieces of wood at a right angle to the bend and try to gently push it back with my thumb. I'm pretty sure that you will get the feeling that it'll be willing to move, or not, before anything breaks Regards David Last edited by Darren-UK; 7th Sep 2007 at 11:40 pm. Reason: Excessive use of emoticons. |
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30th Oct 2006, 3:12 pm | #6 | |
Heptode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ellington, Northumberland, UK.
Posts: 815
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Re: Bent VTR103 aerial
Quote:
Why bother? You really cannot tell the difference between carefully hand-formed clear polymorph with cochineal for a translucent red effect and the original tit, moulded on. This Picture of the two identical (to each other and to the VTR103 type as it happens) aerials on this Schaub-Lorenz T10 shows that the remade tit (on the right) is almost identical to the original one (left). The only way to fit one of these, whither this way or by using injection moulded plastics, is to have the aerial present as there's not a thread on the end, and the polymorph's usually only around £7 for a 1.2Kg box, cheaper if you find it in little bags on eBay or some such venue. Just make sure that you heat the water to at least ten degrees above the figure suggested in the instructions, or you'll have a blob of plastic that you cannot use! That said, Dave has a good point about trying to straighten the rod, which of course the final section is. Tube may kink but brass bar as thin as that should let you fettle it without having to disturb the plastic tit at all; a much better solution in this case, no?
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John. |
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