Murphy A50, 1937. Veneer repair and tuning scale. - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Andy Day · 24th Oct 2006, 7:47 pm

Many years ago a 'friend' did me a favour and gave me a Murphy A50 he'd found in a skip. Unfortunately it had been there some time and rained on.

The current job, the Pilot Jack, is all fixed electrically and the case is stripped and will be repolished in a week or so, I feel the A50 should be the next thing sworn at!

First problem is the case, bits of veneer are peeled off, more is rippled from the damp. It's all dried out now - it's been in a cupboard on the landing for 15 years. Any clues or hints about redoing veneer?

Second is the tuning scale or dial, on these its a verticle card cylinder viewed as it rotates through a verticle slot in the front panel. It's all horrible dirty and faded, does anyone have a half decent scan of a good'un I could poke around in photostudio to make a replacement?

The electronics just hum. Loudly. More questions to follow on that on the appropriate section.

Aerodyne · 25th Oct 2006, 1:17 pm

Hi Andy. Where veneer has rippled it might be possible to reglue, maybe by the use of a hot smoothing iron (the glue used would be remeltable animal glue - 'Scotch' glue). Where veneer is present but no longer affixed, PVA woodworking glue, a flat block of wood and something to clamp with should sort it out.

Completely missing veneer is a tricky one. If it is only a very small amount, you could consider filling with wax of a matching colour, or filling with, say, high performance wood filler and 'trompe l'loile'-ing the wood grain with a watercolourist's paintbrush and a selection of oil paint. With care, this can work pretty well.

Replacing with actual veneer sheet is always best without any cut or break, for example along the grain from top to bottom or side to side of the cabinet. This usually means a complete strip and refinish, though. I believe some websites offer iron-on wood veneers, or you could try woodworker's specialists - look in the back of woodworking magazines for someone local to you.

That's my take on the problem. I'm sure others will advise differently!

-Tony

scotty29 · 25th Oct 2006, 3:08 pm

Hi Andy
Tony as covered your question very well., but if I may add the following, I did not get on very well with ironing on veneers if you are thinking of useing PVA wood addesive, if you have to do any matching staining, the stain will leach through and loosen the glue.
If possible I always try to replace any damaged veneer as a full panel, and provided that the PVA as been given time to cure you should not get any problem of lifting.
Harold
Have a look at WWW.valeveneers.co.uk

24th Oct 2006, 7:47 pm	#1
Andy Day Pentode Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, UK. Posts: 154	Murphy A50, 1937. Veneer repair and tuning scale. Many years ago a 'friend' did me a favour and gave me a Murphy A50 he'd found in a skip. Unfortunately it had been there some time and rained on. The current job, the Pilot Jack, is all fixed electrically and the case is stripped and will be repolished in a week or so, I feel the A50 should be the next thing sworn at! First problem is the case, bits of veneer are peeled off, more is rippled from the damp. It's all dried out now - it's been in a cupboard on the landing for 15 years. Any clues or hints about redoing veneer? Second is the tuning scale or dial, on these its a verticle card cylinder viewed as it rotates through a verticle slot in the front panel. It's all horrible dirty and faded, does anyone have a half decent scan of a good'un I could poke around in photostudio to make a replacement? The electronics just hum. Loudly. More questions to follow on that on the appropriate section. __________________ The older I get, the faster I was!

25th Oct 2006, 1:17 pm	#2
Aerodyne Octode Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Hampton Vale, Peterborough, UK. Posts: 1,698	Re: Murphy A50, 1937. Veneer repair and tuning scale. Hi Andy. Where veneer has rippled it might be possible to reglue, maybe by the use of a hot smoothing iron (the glue used would be remeltable animal glue - 'Scotch' glue). Where veneer is present but no longer affixed, PVA woodworking glue, a flat block of wood and something to clamp with should sort it out. Completely missing veneer is a tricky one. If it is only a very small amount, you could consider filling with wax of a matching colour, or filling with, say, high performance wood filler and 'trompe l'loile'-ing the wood grain with a watercolourist's paintbrush and a selection of oil paint. With care, this can work pretty well. Replacing with actual veneer sheet is always best without any cut or break, for example along the grain from top to bottom or side to side of the cabinet. This usually means a complete strip and refinish, though. I believe some websites offer iron-on wood veneers, or you could try woodworker's specialists - look in the back of woodworking magazines for someone local to you. That's my take on the problem. I'm sure others will advise differently! -Tony Last edited by Darren-UK; 7th Sep 2007 at 10:40 pm. Reason: Paragraphed.

25th Oct 2006, 3:08 pm	#3
scotty29 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Leicester Posts: 64	Re: Murphy A50, 1937. Veneer repair and tuning scale. Hi Andy Tony as covered your question very well., but if I may add the following, I did not get on very well with ironing on veneers if you are thinking of useing PVA wood addesive, if you have to do any matching staining, the stain will leach through and loosen the glue. If possible I always try to replace any damaged veneer as a full panel, and provided that the PVA as been given time to cure you should not get any problem of lifting. Harold Have a look at WWW.valeveneers.co.uk