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Vintage Radio (domestic) Domestic vintage radio (wireless) receivers only. |
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4th Mar 2016, 9:55 am | #81 | |
Heptode
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Quote:
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4th Mar 2016, 9:58 am | #82 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Yes I think you are right, I don't think it was ever white. That said many light coloured plastics like this do yellow with age. So I image over the years the colour will have become darker.
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4th Mar 2016, 11:18 am | #83 |
Nonode
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
I don't know if you're aware that there are two versions of this set with different colour schemes. I have one of each and here they are.
Keith |
4th Mar 2016, 11:25 am | #84 |
Dekatron
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
I'd also suggest foam cleaner, but don't scrub too vigorously. I once spoiled a Sky Queen that way
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4th Mar 2016, 11:47 am | #85 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
My one is the sort of brown one on the left.
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4th Mar 2016, 12:06 pm | #86 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
I was aware of the two versions, I have the red one. The colouration of my case looks very similar to yours.
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4th Mar 2016, 12:07 pm | #87 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
I tried that Phil, not much of a difference. The covering is thin in places so I don't want to scrub.
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6th Mar 2016, 12:08 am | #88 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Hi all,
I have another update. Today we replaced the rather aged two core mains cable with a new three core mains cable with the live switched. We also earthed the chassis at the same time. Whilst we had the chassis out we had another look at why the lid alarm tone didn't work. We bridged S6, the switch on the case but the alarm tone was still not working, hence we concluded it is not a switch issue. Moving V3 around restored the tone briefly, confirming that the issue is a connection on V3.
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6th Mar 2016, 12:30 am | #89 |
Nonode
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Check the valve base connectors on V3. Looking down onto the valveholder, with the valve removed you should see two prongs in each of the valve base connections. If there is only one prong, replace it. There may be more than one faulty connection on each valve base.
I had this on a set I did last year. All the connections seemed OK but moving the valves caused reception to come and go. keith |
6th Mar 2016, 12:39 am | #90 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Will do Keith, it sounds like the same issue.
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6th Mar 2016, 1:15 am | #91 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
The chassis should not be earthed on this set; there is no mains transformer in this model. The extra connection from Neutral to Earth will trip an RCD as soon as it is plugged in.
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6th Mar 2016, 9:06 am | #92 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
In fact while you're at it you might as well check all the valve bases. Could save you future frustration!
There is a mains transformer on this set but there's only a two core mains lead. I replaced the mains leads on mine with two core leads. I don't know if there are any benefits to earthing the chassis. It works well enough without earthing, after all it was designed to be portable. I was listening to one of my 430s yesterday in our almost complete conservatory. Might have to have one permanently on show in there. Keith |
6th Mar 2016, 10:23 am | #93 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Hi Keith,
With the obvious exception of AC/DC sets there seems to be much debate on here about whether to earth or not to do so. We decided to see if it made any difference to the audio quality, and it didn't. However, I have a Bush SW43, when we earthed that set we had lots of interference problems. The outcome was that we removed the earth. There is a mains transformer on the Vidor CN430. Regards, Gary
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6th Mar 2016, 12:40 pm | #94 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
As you say, earthing is still of interest, but now that the majority of electrical socket outlets are protected by RCDs, earthing a chassis fed via an RCD is no longer strictly necessary as a safety feature. Others may disagree! However, if your electrical installation contains MCBs or fuses - as mine did until recently - all exposed metalwork should be earthed.
Personally, I prefer to retain the original core arrangement when replacing a mains lead.
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6th Mar 2016, 11:04 pm | #95 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Thanks Phil. My house was built in 1993, the consumer unit has fuses and a couple of MCB's.
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26th Mar 2016, 4:41 pm | #96 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Hi all,
By way of an update, as previously recommended today we replaced C18 (Valve 3 screen grid decoupling capacitor) and R10 (Valve 3 anode load resistor.) The radio is now working well on both wavebands. Thanks to everyone who provided advice, and especially to Phil (G4SPZ) and Mick (vinrads) who helped out with parts. Your help is greatly appreciated. I am very impressed with this little set, an image of which can be found at: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...pictureid=3483 Also attached below. Very best regards, Gary
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27th Mar 2016, 4:51 pm | #97 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
The set has developed a strange intermittent issue. Whilst using the set the sound went off a couple of times, but it remained powered. Both wavebands were affected.
Initially I suspected V3 as the base is definitely a bit suspect. Waggling that valve did seem to have an effect. However, I think I narrowed it down a bit more to a connection issue on the wave change switch. Anyone seen anything similar?
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27th Mar 2016, 5:11 pm | #98 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
See posts #68 and #89, amongst others - you're going to have to grasp the nettle and replace the valveholder!
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27th Mar 2016, 5:27 pm | #99 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Hi Phil,
There is definitely an issue with the V3 valve holder, I know that. There does also seem to be something with the connections on wave change switch. The valve holder is riveted to the chassis, how can these be removed please? Regards, Gary
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27th Mar 2016, 5:39 pm | #100 |
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Re: Vidor CN430 My Lady Anne
Rivets can be drilled out, using a high speed steel twist drill slightly larger than the rivet. Use gentle pressure. The rivet head will usually part company with the rivet body, which can then be pushed out. Tubular rivets can be removed from either end. You can secure the new valveholder with a couple of 6BA bolts, nuts and shakeproof washers.
Before you start, take plenty of photos of the wiring to the pins, and make sure the replacement valveholder has its pins in the same relationship to the fixing flange. You want the pins to be as near as possible to their original locations, or else some wires may not stretch.
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Phil Optimist [n]: One who is not in possession of the full facts Last edited by Phil G4SPZ; 27th Mar 2016 at 5:45 pm. Reason: Afterthought |