Philips G8 G22K522

[samjmann]

Burning the midnight oil with this one!

If you get a so called universal tripler, be careful that the diode and capacitor leads are connected correctly. If not you can get all sorts of odd picture effects. I'm sorry but I cannot ever remember fitting a universal into a G8, but maybe someone on the forum may be able to to advise. Whatever you do don't crop any of the leads until you're quite sure everything is OK.. From what I recall you could use a universal for any TV, but the diode and cap lead connection varied model to model.

SJM

[19Seventy7]

Definitely was, I was up until about 4 AM trying to sort it out. I’m really gutted about it as I’d have liked to have kept it as original as possible, but getting it to work again is more important to me.

I’ve thought about soldering some HV cable from the tripler given to me to the cable I’m left with. I have some insulation tubing from the tripler given to me too. I’m not sure if it’d be worth risking it though. There’s a tripler on Donberg which I might buy and fit.

I’m a little worried about the LOPT panel snapping as it turned out the wire had come loose too, unfortunately. There’s a small amount left that I should probably be able to solder but I’ve no idea if its still intact under the insulation. Fingers crossed it is.

I’m not even really sure how the panel broke, I was removing the remnants of the old rubber cap and it just came with it. Must go brittle with age as the original LOPTs panel I removed shattered into pieces.

I’m going to order some super strength super glue to repair the panel and then probably a new tripler. Id rather be safe than sorry around the EHT sections.

Thanks
‘77

[samjmann]

Personally I would go with the HV cable and sleeving. If you can make the AC feed post on the tripler as solid as possible, so much the better.
Chances are there is still quite a few other problems to sort out yet, no point in running up more cost before you really have to.

I've lost count of the number of times I got a shock from that connector, when I used regularly service G8's. Does give you a very nasty jolt, but I lived to see the day. Always have one hand completely away from the chassis when working live. That way current doesn't flow through the chest directly. Whatever you do stay safe, ensure you're away from large earthy masses like radiators, when working live.

SJM

[19Seventy7]

I think I’ll go with the HV cable and sleeving too, as you say it saves cost and I’ve still got a lot to sort out. I’ll also get some HV tape to wrap around the join. Just to make sure it’s secure and well insulated. Wasn’t sure if it was a good idea either

I can imagine it’s easy to get a shock from that connector. I always have my hand behind my back or in my pocket and always make sure I’m away from anything metal. Though the funniest thing is I’ve only ever been shocked by a TV when it’s off, never when it’s on. Touch wood...

Thanks for the help
‘77

[John123]

I saw some rather excellent info on triplers and how they work in a recent video.

[19Seventy7]

That's a really interesting video, Thanks for linking it. I've seen Michaels videos a few times but I've only just now subscribed.

His video did get me thinking though, of actually repairing my tripler itself, in that I open it up, attach a new lead and pour some new resin in. I'd actually much rather that approach for some reason

Thanks
'77

[Welsh Anorak]

If you do make sure you use a resin capable of withstanding high voltages. Bear in mind chips and lockfits aren't keen on kilovolts arcing to chassis!

[linescan87]

Could you not just ad on a bit of high voltage wire? Maybe double up on heat shrink sleeving.

[Welsh Anorak]

Maybe if you post a couple of photos we can see what's damaged and make appropriate suggestions.

[19Seventy7]

Well my original plan was to add some more HV wiring, but I don't know if I trust it too much. I did originally do it and it felt weak, granted heat shrink will strengthen it a bit.

Thanks for the heads up about the resin if I do go down that route. I'd have probably just bought any old type.

I'll get some photos over when I can, I'm a little busy at the minute but give me an hour or so and I'll have them up

[19Seventy7]

Well wasn’t that a long hour

I got some photos but they’re not very good as my camera just wouldn’t focus.

Theres still plenty of cable left, and it’s only just too short to reach the stud. Maybe it’ll be better to strip the cable down further to give me more wire to work with

Thanks
‘77

[davyrocket2]

Do you have a drill then make a small hole thread the wire through use the piece you are trying to connect and make a loop and thread through and solder carefully use flux if it helps make the join

[19Seventy7]

Oh I didnt think of that at all, I'll give that a go I think. Definitely sounds much better than just soldering the two ends.

I'll let you know how it goes

Thanks for the ideas and help, really appreciate it
'77