Broken EHT - is it fixable?

[19Seventy7]

Hi,

I have a small generic 5.5" CRT tv which I have been making a new case for. However, to get it to work in this cabinet I needed to modify it slightly. I removed the radio a while ago. Today, I realised I could remove the bracket for the radio PCB, so i did.

I turned the TV on to make sure that it wasn't needed and the TV tube itself started making a weird noise, from the anode cap. I unplugged it, discharged the anode and tried to remove it, to see if there was any problem like not fully in, as I tried to remove it, it snapped. The two prongs are still in the CRT.

Is there any thing I can do? It's not a main set, and was really just a project, so it's not a HUGE issue.


Thanks

[Freya]

Could you post a photo.

[19Seventy7]

Here it is.

Sorry for poor quality, phone wouldn't focus and has just died. I'll get a better photo if needed when the phone has charged.

Thanks

[Nuvistor]

Looks like a standard spring clip, press the two wires together and it should come out easily. If the rubber/plastic boot is in good condition you should be able to solder the clip back on the lead.

[19Seventy7]

Hi,

It I kept it in the CRT for safe keeping. I've just found out how to get to the actual wire inside.

I'll solder it back together in a little bit when i have time

Thank you for your help

[19Seventy7]

I've fixed it.

The original soldering had broke, so I re-soldered and all is well!

Thanks for your help!

[Refugee]

There is a technique to removing those anode caps without snapping the spring off.
Pinch the rubber "sucker" at two points at 90 degrees to the wire entry and waggle it from side to side as you lift it out of the socket in the tube.

[Boater Sam]

Be aware that the tube is a huge capacitor and the EHT terminal will have a substantial voltage on it for a long time after switching off.
I used to slide an earthed prod onto the connection under the rubber cap before removing.

[19Seventy7]

Originally Posted by Refugee

There is a technique to removing those anode caps without snapping the spring off.
Pinch the rubber "sucker" at two points at 90 degrees to the wire entry and waggle it from side to side as you lift it out of the socket in the tube.

Hi,

That’s good to know, i’ve just been trying to pinch it right in and lift it right out. I’ll definitely keep that in mind!

Thanks!

Boatee Sam - i do the same, I put wrap some wire around a flat head screwdriver (insulated screwdriver) with the wire attatched to the earth ring of the CRT.

Thanks

[Mooly]

Originally Posted by Boater Sam

Be aware that the tube is a huge capacitor and the EHT terminal will have a substantial voltage on it for a long time after switching off.
I used to slide an earthed prod onto the connection under the rubber cap before removing.

Having first discharged a CRT and removing the anode cap, I then used to fine spray water onto the final anode to ensure it remained discharged while handling. Dielectric absorption on large CRT's meant they could 'recover' to many hundred of volts (or higher judging by the spark length if you discharged them some time later) while being removed and moved around.

I can never recall new CRT's having any charge, even though they must have been tested at some point.