![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#21 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boston, Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 479
|
![]()
Maybe too late at this point, but I would have considered asking some of the Classic / Vintage Motorcycle specialists, e.g, 'The Finishing Touch', https://www.classicmotorcyclepaintwork.com/.
I've no connection, but have used this particular company in the past for a complete (2-pack) respray on a classic Norton, including transfers & lining, and was extremely pleased with the result. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 | |
Heptode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Reading/Fakenham, UK.
Posts: 847
|
![]() Quote:
Yes, I could have done a bit of research and done it myself. It couldn't have been worse, and even if it was it wouldn't have cost anywhere near as much! ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wiltshire, UK.
Posts: 6,810
|
![]()
What paint did you specify? Two-pack isocyanate or one of the modern nasty water-soluble things?
Professional vehicle-painters only "rub down between coats" if they truly screwed-up and have to remove runs/orange-peel before recovering. And how were the labels applied? Assuming there's a 'clear-coat' been applied over the top, unless the labels are known to be compatible with the solvents in the clear-coat, I'd expect there to be some degree of 'lifting'. To solve the issue, I'd have the whole thing stripped back to bare metal and the front panel engraved with the logos. Then etch-prime and two-pack. Then fill the engraved logos with an appropriately-coloured oil-based paint (so as not to react with the two-pack). Alternatively, have an entire front-panel made from black Traffolyte, with suitable engraving. If you've got anywhere local that does engraving for sports-trophies etc they will have the equipment [and the Traffolyte] for this. They charge per-letter. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 | ||
Dekatron
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rugeley, Staffordshire, UK.
Posts: 3,649
|
![]() Quote:
![]() Anyway, too late now and my sympathies are with you. I have suffered many times at the hands of 'experts' and 'specialists' doing work for me. I mostly do all my own work now be it spraying, woodwork renovations, electronics (obviously), in fact anything that requires a bit of brain power to put it bluntly. Otherwise I have a list of 'recommended by friends' service providers for general household stuff mostly who I have been using for years. And I never just refer to ads or lists to find a service provider. I just made the acquaintance of a 'new' car mechanic last week, after my last one who had stood for forty years retired in April.
__________________
A digital radio is the latest thing, but a vintage wireless is forever.. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Octode
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Maroochydore, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 1,910
|
![]()
The first page if this article shows a couple of my guitars that both have nitrocellulose lacquer:
http://worldphaco.com/uploads/Gretschdoc.pdf |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#26 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING.
Posts: 6,478
|
![]()
Very difficult one. Pity about the treble mess. I would be tempted to make a smart aluminium plate that would mount under the control locking nuts. Give it a high polish then lacquer it.
You don't need to label the controls but if you must, why not get them engraved on the plate? Just a suggestion. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#27 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Rugby (home) and all over the country for work
Posts: 1,001
|
![]()
Just an idea but why not engrave the wording on the knobs and keep the chassis clean. This is what some manufacturers did i.e Bush Bakelite tellies.
Christopher Capener
__________________
A proper radio is one that needs to be moved with a wheelbarrow !! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#28 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING.
Posts: 6,478
|
![]()
Thinking about it, do you really need to label the controls at all? Maybe just a high quality plate is sufficient. J.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#29 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING.
Posts: 6,478
|
![]()
If it helps the original Wadar amp did not have lettering for the controls. The control knobs themselves are numbered 0-10 giving a very smart, clean appearance to the amp.
This was one of the last amps built by Gerry. Your paint job is excellent. It is VERY difficult to get a flawless finish on these chassis so I would be tempted to leave it alone. Give it a poke and the floor will collapse.. Regards, John. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#30 |
Heptode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Reading/Fakenham, UK.
Posts: 847
|
![]()
Thanks all for the additional thoughts.
I'm still minded to go for silver plaques/black lettering to hide the decals. Or maybe as some have suggested silver or anodised plates for the front of the transformer cover and front panel with appropriate lettering, once I've found a suitable company. Halfway through this fiasco it did occur to me to not have any lettering and just have the knobs engraved. That would have been quite adequate. Oh well, this is a First World problem as they say. I'm very fortunate to have this as the only thing to worry about right now... Ian |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#31 |
Triode
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: London, UK.
Posts: 18
|
![]()
I know a guy called Gav, his paint, finish and detail is second to none. If you want it done properly, you should speak to him. PM me and i'll give you his contact details if you're interested. Thanks Antony
|
![]() |
![]() |