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Old 14th Feb 2009, 2:04 pm   #21
MichaelR
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Hi Tony,

I am sure I had a tailstock with a drill chuck with the peatol.

I take the point about the belt drive but you have got to remember this is a small lathe not in any way meant to compete with the bigger lathes. For the light work we did we never had a problem with judder.

I have always found "measure twice cut once" good advice when deciding what model to purchase of anything. There used to be a model engineering show in Harrogate every spring and that is wher I saw the peatol being demonstrated.If you can wait I would recommend a visit to a suitable show and have a good look around.

It is apparent to me that "you get what you pay for", being in Sheffield I have seen many an ex works' lathes part for good money only for the new owner to find they needed completely refurbishing. The best buys were from the technical colleges or schools.

My understanding is that you did not want a big lathe. The smallest Myfords I suspect are going to be too big .

Last edited by MichaelR; 14th Feb 2009 at 2:06 pm. Reason: spelling
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Old 14th Feb 2009, 5:20 pm   #22
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Sean and Michael - I agree with you both about the judder; I've never had that problem.

You can cut threads on the Unimat 3 - there is a works attachment - PM me for details.

The Harrogate show is 9/10/11 May - I go every year.
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Old 14th Feb 2009, 7:11 pm   #23
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Have had no real problems with the Peatol, but it is a basic machine and not for thread cutting etc. but very handy for making small and medium sized parts.

I bought mine second hand for around £35 without a motor, and spent about another £40 on spares and accessories. The chap who runs the firm is a really helpful guy and pleasant to deal with.

Of course there are better models if you have the money, and the room.
There should be plenty of floor standing ones available with all the firms going bust nowadays, and you could pick one up for the scrap value I would think, but transport could make it uneconomic with a fork lift needed both ends.

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Old 15th Feb 2009, 12:58 am   #24
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Since you say you don't have much spare space you might like to consider one of the 'universal machines' available from the likes of Chester or Axminster.

These are short bed gap lathes so you can have a larger than average swing over the bed and also sport a drillling / light milling pillar.

Funilly enough they seem to be cheaper than similar conventional lathes from the same stables.

I have had a Chester version for about 15 years and been very pleased. Everything is very solid. The ways and cross slide guides etc also have gib strips. These are really useful for an amateur to keep everthing in proper alignment.

I also have a Cowells watchmakers that I have modified by adding a leadscrew. This is a really excellent British lathe for fine and accurate work. Get one if you can.
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Old 15th Feb 2009, 8:29 pm   #25
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Lots to think about from the excellent answers. Thanks to all! I think I may take a trip up to the May Harrogate show. I've noted the date.
-Tony
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Old 16th Feb 2009, 10:48 am   #26
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Default Re: Which lathe?

I have owned a Unimat4 for around six years now. I have had no real problems with it, except that quality is compromised slightly. This is probably due in part to production being switched to China some years ago.
The rubber hoop drive system is a good safety feature, many failed attempts at parting-off have resulted in jams. As long as you switch off as soon as a jam occurs, drive wear can be minimised.
Only two items are required on top of the supplied Unimat4 kit, those are a topslide, and a drill chuck for the tailstock. I have needed little else, the machine is a good all-rounder.
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Old 25th Feb 2009, 6:57 pm   #27
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Default Re: Which lathe?

I too have been fancying getting a lathe for the past few years, after struggling generally to turn the occaisional item in my portable drill, clamped in my big bench vice.

I have now ordered one of the 7x14 lathes, which is due to be delivered tomorrow. I'm no expert on such machinery, the last time I had my hands on one was at school some 45 years ago - a brand new full sized lathe, but I'll try and provide some sort of write up once it is unpacked and set up. My choice was between this bench top unit and an old, but better known second hand unit of reputable manufacture, but perhaps doubtful condition and a lot more money.
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Old 8th Jan 2011, 5:17 pm   #28
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Default Re: Which lathe?

I agree that having a lathe opens up all sorts of possiblities, and I would add a decent pillar drill to the list. The snag is what to buy. In my opinion there's no need to spend a great deal of money on either, but you have to know what you're doing as it's very easy to buy a pile of scrap. Equally, with sufficient experience and practice, aka skill, the shortcomings of old machines can be ameliorated. I've been at it for over 50 years.
Alan

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Old 9th Jan 2011, 12:02 pm   #29
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Hi,

Thanks Brian; it looks like we've both been saved some work.

Thanks Alan; we are alike when it comes to old machinery as we would both fill a warehouse given the chance in fact you are already well on your way given the machinery you have.

My Myford is a load of expensive junk; it is one of only two known survivors being an MF36". When new it would have been a beautiful machine but after years of abuse I've ended up with it. The carriage stops half way along the bed refusing to go either way unless pushed due to the rack having a number of gums instead of teeth; the compound slide if adjusted near the headstock to remove play jams solid further along the bed; the cross slide is the same and a pain to use; the tail stock is worn out resulting in holes that run out. The gear train has hit the buffers as all the gears are worn out and incredibly noisy; the back gear had been broken completely in half at some point and welded back together; the lever for engaging the half nuts is missing not that it would be much use anyway given the condition of the gear train.

In spite of all it's shortcomings and there are many as Alan quite rightly states excellent work can be produced on such a lathe by an experienced operator; I even cut 45 cast iron gears using this lathe whilst doing my AVO Wave Winder restoration whilst it had a broken headstock; the headstock casting snapped completely across the front main bearing; I patched this up with a temporary clamp and completed the gear cutting also taking the opportunity of cutting a brand new cast iron back gear whilst I was at it. The headstock is now repaired after a great deal of work as I used this broken lathe to very accurately turn new headstock bearings out of Whale Tufnol; this was a major undertaking involving much adjustment and setting up of the boring bar; once the bearings were made I took the headstock mandrel and had it metal sprayed and precision ground with hardened stainless to original specification then it was rebuilt; after a few hours use it was adjusted and now runs happily. The rest of the repairs will be done if ever we get a summer longer than two days in fact this would be prolonged summer where I live.

A brand new lathe in inexperienced hands won't automatically produce excellent work but a worn out lathe in experienced hands can produce first class results. Alan and I are always exchanging messages about our machines and what we are getting up to as we both have a love of such machines.

For those not familiar with lathes I would add that a lathe just doesn't turn round objects which of course are its main function but it can turn flat surfaces for want of a better description. This is accomplished by using the cross slide to "face". If for example a flat was required on a shaft; the shaft could be mounted in the cross slide and either a milling cutter or fly cutter chucked the carriage could then be advanced to bring on the cut then the shaft slowly fed into the cutter using the cross slide giving a perfectly flat surface and for the ultimate precision surface a lap could be chucked and used with extremely fine abrasive powder to produce a mirror finish to ultra fine tolerances.

Here’s a simple question; what is the most important lathe accessory?

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 12:13 pm   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired View Post
Here’s a simple question; what is the most important lathe accessory?
Col,
I think that's a bit subjective, and it depends how and what you term an accessory.
The first thing that I make sure that I've got to hand is a pair of safety glasses. After that it's a Tailstock Drill Chuck.
Alan
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 12:23 pm   #31
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired View Post
Here’s a simple question; what is the most important lathe accessory?
A Bench Grinder on which to make and sharpen Lathe Tools.
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 12:24 pm   #32
Sean Williams
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Default Re: Which lathe?

I would class a simple straight edge as the most important tool I use.

Seeing as I cant yet afford to equip my dickson toolpost with the tool holders, I find this tip as passed onto me at college invaluable.

When setting tool height (important) put a short steel rule between the tip of the tool and the workpiece - if the rule is completely vertical then the tool is at the correct height, if the top is towards the toolpost it is too low, and towards the chuck, too high.

It is amazing how simple this check is, and saves lots of time when shimming a tool to height.
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 12:54 pm   #33
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Default Re: Which lathe?

I picked one of these up locally on ebay a couple of years ago.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/minilor/index.html

It came complete with the milling head attachment (although I've not used that yet) and a load of accessories for £250. Only a 'modellers hobby' lathe and not the last word in features, but for turning small shafts, bushes and threading it works OK. It's also a bench top machine so doesn't take up too much room. I don't use it very often but it's invaluable when I need it. Mine is bolted on to a thick MDF base and I can just about lift it on my own if I need more bench space.

I used Boxfords at school (metalwork being my favorite/best subject and spent most of my dinner hours in the workshop) but couldn't justify paying the cost for one of these.

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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:07 pm   #34
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Hi,

Excellent answers so far but I've bowled a bouncer; Alan is nearer the mark with "subjective". The answer I have was given to me almost 50 years ago and I'll let the question run a bit longer just for interest to see if anyone catches on. A clue is to look at the whole picture.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:43 pm   #35
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Blimey, that's a bit cryptic. Here are a few things I find helpful;
1. Plenty of light
2. A hook to hang up the chuck key on
3. Machine at the right height (if you're tall like me)
4. E/stop with no volt release.
5. A piece of wood to protect the bed when removing heavy workpieces from the chuck.
Rob.
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:49 pm   #36
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Machine Mart do quite nice little lathes for small model engineering jobs. Not top flight by any means, but nice and compact. I'ver oten toyed with buying one on their 'VAT Free' events, but really, coudn't justify the expense:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...hes-milldrills

I find that I can do a lot of metalworking tasks on my woodturning lathe.

As with all lathes for metal or wood, it has a Morse taper in the headstock and tailstock, so can accept a live centre in the tailstock and a drill chuck in either end. Hence, a piece of rod or bar can be held in a chuck in the headstock, and a drill bit can be held in a chuck in the tailstock to drill the bar, as with the 'twin-pot shaft' project.

On a wood lathe, on which the headstock is often able to swivel, it's important when drilling a hole in a shaft that a 'kiss test' is done to ensure that the tail stock is exactly in alignment with the headstock. A drive point is put in the tailstock and another in the headstock, which are brought together to ensure that the two points touch exactly. If not, the drill in the tailstock will progressively run off-centre as the drilling progresses.

I was given a small old (antique!!) lathe by a friend who was having a clearout, which looked a bit basic and was a make I'd never heard of - 'Lorch'. I took it to show Colin ('retired') who advised me that it's a watchmakers lathe, and that Lorch were a German company of some note. It had a box of bits and bobs with it, which turned out to be collets which could be fitted in the tailstock to grip thin spindles. When I get a 'round tuit' I intend to refurbish it and put it into use - It will do all that I need from a metalworking lathe.

Apparently Lorch was Founded in 1885 and trading under the names "F.Lorch", "L.S.& Co." and "Lorch, Schmidt & Co." It was a German precision machine-tool company, but sadly, was driven out of business when, in 1976 when the bank backing it withdrew support. An all too familar tale in the UK too.

I've attached a couple of pic.

This is a very useful link to info about a wide range of lathes, and has a 'For Sale' section:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html

Very interesting pages about Myford lathes here:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/index.html

David
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:52 pm   #37
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Default Re: Which lathe?

It really depends on what you call an accessory! According to some vendors, a tail stock is an accessory which it definitely is not, it is a necessity. Accessories are things such as indexing attachments, saddle stops, collet chucks, quick-change tool holders, vertical slides, live centres, faceplates, taper turning attachments etc.

It really depends on what you are expecting to do with your lathe as to which accessory to buy first. I was lucky as my Myford came with all the above except for the dividing attachment, but it is easy to make one using the gear on the headstock (bull gear). If you want to do things like making .25" shaft extensions, small bushes and the like, good HSS tools, centre drills and a set of quality twist drills are essential but not much else - assuming that a bench grinder is available. Anything long, then a centre, preferably live, is a must.

I personally have a Bridgeport milling machine so do all my milling using that but without it, a vertical slide is required. I would say that, having a lathe only, the vertical slide is probably the most important accessory as it opens up a vast range of possibilities to you. It changes the lathe into a mill or a precision pillar drill for example.

It really is down to budget and keeping your eyes open at car boot sales and the like, as lathe accessories often turn up for little money (I have bought many milling cutters, drills, reamers, even an engineers' level at boot sales).

I use my "machine shop" for making and repairing many things such as clocks, stationary steam engines and even, dare I say it "lathe accessories!"

Perhaps Col is referring to heating in the workshop as the most important "accessory" - am I right Col?

Last edited by brianc; 9th Jan 2011 at 1:54 pm. Reason: Added a bit!
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:53 pm   #38
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Callipers inside/outside types, micrometer, etc.? You've got to know when to stop!

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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:56 pm   #39
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Errrm, thinking laterally -some stock to put in the chuck perhaps?

A lathe without metal (or wood) is I guess a bit like a computer printer with ink but no paper. Not the best analogy perhaps, but the best I can bring to mind.

David
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Old 9th Jan 2011, 1:57 pm   #40
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Default Re: Which lathe?

Quote:
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Here’s a simple question; what is the most important lathe accessory?

Kind regards, Col.
My metal work teacher at school always stated the most important lathe accessory was the operator of the lathe. I only have a little Lorch Schmidt

Chris
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