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Old 30th Apr 2010, 2:45 pm   #21
oldticktock
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Default Re: Pye v4

Upon removing everything from the case , giving me easy access I have found a date stamp it reads " 2nd September 1953"
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 4:43 pm   #22
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Default Re: Pye v4

New CRT fitted, scan coils fitted and ION trap aligned. Later after tea, I will snip the filter cap and bring it up on the Variac.
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 5:09 pm   #23
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Default Re: Pye v4

The emergency services are on alert.....


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Old 30th Apr 2010, 5:23 pm   #24
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Default Re: Pye v4

Wow Chris, you really have got the bug now! Looking forward to seeing what happens.
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 6:46 pm   #25
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Default Re: Pye v4

metered the main AC input for continuity, nothing need to check the heater chain like the TV63.
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 6:52 pm   #26
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Default Re: Pye v4

Hi.
Check after the switch it may be lazy contacts, they usually clean up with some power applied!
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 6:59 pm   #27
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Default Re: Pye v4

Let me know when you get around to Pye B18T's Chris and you can finish mine off.

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Old 30th Apr 2010, 7:42 pm   #28
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Default Re: Pye v4

This may take sometime.

I've tested all the valves heaters....ok
I've checked F3...ok
I've checked the On/off...ok
The CRT heater was up and running on Davids CRT tester, so that's ok.

I will now have to delve into the rats nest and check the physical wires on the chain,grrr stupidly i was hoping to get at least past this stage, hey ho!

Chris
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 10:00 pm   #29
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Default Re: Pye v4

Strange I've checked the heater chain wiring, all bar 2 EF80's which are buried under a shielded, under chassis box unless its one of those two (unlikely) then I cannot fathom why this baby won't light up. Checked R138 and the parallel Thermistor and R137 which are in the chain and they are ok too.

Calling quits for tonight, will check R134,R135 & R136 tomorrow with a fresh head maybe I will see clearly.

Chris

P.s Take that all back just tried again and I have heater lights and line whistle

Last edited by oldticktock; 30th Apr 2010 at 10:10 pm.
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 10:22 pm   #30
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Default Re: Pye v4

Ok full mains applied, line whistle present but blank screen.

Tried the screwdriver on the EY51 and I can draw a spark, not so on the PL81 or the PY81 which I beleive, I should be able to.

Could it be the ION trap position it's lined-up with pin 3 with the arrow pointing towards the screen maybe swing it round 360 I seem to remember David suggesting this.

Could it be brightness bias down to chassis?

Am i right that there are only 3 things which can cause blank screen,

1. heater power
2. grid bias if down to chassis causes
3. EHT supply

possible 4 if fly-back EHT is used then line TB,LineTB Osc weak & line TB freq low

I think I read so much lately I can't see the wood for the trees, perhaps it's the simple one the ION trap, perhaps the PL81/PY81 is the clue (no spark) heaters lit though

Tomorrow, I need to sleep.

Chris
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 10:40 pm   #31
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Default Re: Pye v4

Don't worry about the spark on the PL/PY81 the EY51 is the important one, does it light up? If so remember that the tube you got may be low emission so adjust the ion trap with the brightness well up and the "lights" off in the attick!!!!
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 10:48 pm   #32
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Default Re: Pye v4

Chris. There MIGHT be a (faint) line painted on the tube neck. The Magnet lines up with this line with the arrow pointing towards the front of the screen. It is not present on all tubes though.

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Old 30th Apr 2010, 10:56 pm   #33
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Default Re: Pye v4

Sussed why the set was not powering up.

On the back you have to make connection on a panel

for 240 it should be 1,2 & 5 on this setting its dead,
for 250 1,3&5 dead
I moved it to 1,2 &4 (220) it fires up

Last edited by oldticktock; 30th Apr 2010 at 11:05 pm.
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Old 30th Apr 2010, 11:05 pm   #34
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Default Re: Pye v4

Hi Cris,
The EY51 filament does not seem to lit so there's a possiblity that the CRT anode volts are not present. You could try drawing a spark from the filament end of the EY51. I think the corona ring is connected to the EHT lead. If the EHT voltage is about 10KV the spark drawn should be in the order of 12mm. Use an insulated screwdriver to do this, the metal shaft must be connected to the chassis.

Check that the A1 volts are present at pin 11 of the CRT base, it should be something like 300 to 400 volts.

Remember that in certain CRTs the adjustment of the ion trap magnet can be very critical.

The CRT was removed from a McMicheal TM54 15 years ago.

DFWB.
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Old 1st May 2010, 6:50 am   #35
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Default Re: Pye v4

Having to run this via the variac on 223V due to the odd voltage selector issue

Your right I cannot see a glow in the EY51, although I can draw a spark about 7mm long.

Not being familiar with the EY51 rectifier (only experience is with EY86's) I find it strange that the EHT wire is coming out of the bottom end of the valve (see pic). I thought that end which has the two wires was the heater end, the other end with the single thicker wire being the business end and where I would have expected the EHT lead to be attached, is it wired correctly? to me it looks like its coming off the heater, there appears to be 3 connection points at this end, two next to each other (Heaters?) an one below them, should it not be on the one below or the other end of the valve? I'm probably barking wrong though.

The CRT results:-

pin2 105V
pin5 77V
pin6 77V
pin7 77V (this bank of 3 are strapped together)
pin8 75V
pin10 135V
pin11 76V

I think the above explains why the screen is blank
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Old 1st May 2010, 8:10 am   #36
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Default Re: Pye v4

Hi Chris

If you look up inside 'the bell' of the EY51 you should see a normal orange heater glow.
But it won't light up until the L/O stage starts to operate. Otherwise disconnect the two thinner legs at the EHT end and check heater continuity. It was open circuit on my Fergy. I Have a spare EY51 if you need one, Sean (our mod) very kindly sent me two!

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Old 1st May 2010, 8:20 am   #37
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Default Re: Pye v4

Hi Chris

Always wanted one of these but have been put of by the complexity of the set! I'm sure you will crack it and any way I do have two other Pye sets waiting in the wings. Had just the same problem with the VT2 re the mains adjuster resistor think on the V4 Trader sheet that's R134 135 136 in fact mine went bang for some reason! Very big bang to! which was interesting! Its a 3 section wire wound job on the VT2 so assume would be much the same on the V4. And yes that's quite right as you set is re the EHT take off from the EY51 if you look and the Trader sheet and V11 you an see the EHT coming off there going to the CRT.
Best of luck will follow progress.

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Old 1st May 2010, 10:28 am   #38
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Default Re: Pye v4

I have not disconnected the EY51, continuity checked in situ.

1.There is continuity between the filaments.

2.There is continuity between the EHT connection/filament joint and the anti corona ring

3. There is continuity between the two end of the EHT lead
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Old 1st May 2010, 10:52 am   #39
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Default Re: Pye v4

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldticktock View Post
I have not disconnected the EY51, continuity checked in situ.
You can't do that. You need to remove the EY51 and check it.

Dave
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Old 1st May 2010, 10:57 am   #40
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Oh, ok will do
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