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Hints, Tips and Solutions (Do NOT post requests for help here) If you have any useful general hints and tips for vintage technology repair and restoration, please share them here. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE! |
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6th Mar 2016, 11:16 pm | #1 |
Nonode
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 2,181
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Iron on PCB Papers.
Here or on Hints & tips??
Couple of years ago I got some sheets to print laser PCB layouts prior to ironing on. long story/short, but I've now got laser printer up & running, I thought I'd try them out. From an idea posted on another post, I thought I'd try the laminator method. it worked with limited success ,so I now wonder if these sheets are Teflon ,as I now see the seller on that place we don't mention, selling single sheets of re usable TEFLON for this. Price, not bad at circa £2.5. But, I'm always looking at ways of using the frying pan without fat/oil of any sort, and Swimbo gets sheets of Teflon a lot less than this ( £1 /sheet). Anyone tried laser ink on Teflon sheets? |
7th Mar 2016, 12:07 am | #2 |
Octode
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sheffield, South Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 1,453
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Re: iron on PCB PAPERS.
I use ink-jet gloss photo paper from Poundland.
Stick a 6" x 4" sheet of that to A4 so it'll feed through the laser OK and then iron it onto the board until the paper had gone brown. The soak it in water and rub the paper away leaving the toner stuck to the copper. I've never had any luck with glossy magazine paper. — Joe |
7th Mar 2016, 12:25 am | #3 |
Nonode
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 2,181
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Re: iron on PCB PAPERS.
Might try that. I've had to use masking tape to join the sheets to a sheet of A4 normal paper to pull it though printer.
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7th Mar 2016, 5:42 pm | #4 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Oban, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 1,118
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Re: Iron on PCB Papers.
I've got a load of old CDROM labelling sheets (sticky-backed, for printer use) and find that removing all the labels - very easy, they almost come off as one complete sheet - then printing onto the shiny side that's left makes a very, very good carrier for the toner transfer method.
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9th Mar 2016, 7:56 pm | #5 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
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Re: Iron on PCB Papers.
Do remember with the 'iron-on' toner transfer method to reverse print the artwork or you'll end up with a back to front PCB - it wouldn't be the first time!
I've never tried the technique and I've heard variable results, especially when using glossy magazine paper rather than photo paper. I stick to what works for me, which is UV, but the iron-on method cuts out a lot of time and effort and the expense of a UV light box, UV lacquer (or pre-sensitised boards), and obviates the need for exposing and developing the PCB, all of which is really quite time consuming. (I don't have a laser printer, and in my experience they're pretty hopeless at making acceptable acetate masks for UV exposure, even commercial laser printers). The results obtained here using the toner transfer method are pretty impressive: http://www.dr-lex.be/hardware/tonertransfer.html As to etching PCBs, I abandoned using ferric chloride as an etchant some years ago as it’s so messy. Instead, I use Sodium Persulphate clear PCB etchant - an effective alternative to ferric chloride. It has a 6 – 8 minute etch time at 45C – 50C. (above 50C it loses its strength). The bath life is 4 – 6 weeks depending on use and operating temperature. Unlike ferric chloride, it leaves no residue – the solution turns pale blue in use. You can stand the plastic etchant container in a washing up bowl of boiling water to warm up the etchant. You can use it cold – it just takes longer to work. Unlike Ferric Chloride, being clear, you can see the etching progress simply by looking through the etchant. The product is supplied as a fine crystalline white powder and instructions for use are printed on the HDPE bottle label. A 500 gram bottle of Sodium Persulphate crystals will make up to 2.5 litres of etching solution. (Widely available on e-bay, or if you want to pay top prices, from Maplin et al). As an alternative, some people use a 50/50% mixture of Hydrochloric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide (20 Volume - 6% W/V), which is also cleaner to handle and safer for drains. Good luck with your PCBs!
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David. BVWS Member. G-QRP Club member 1339. |
9th Mar 2016, 11:06 pm | #6 |
Nonode
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 2,181
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Re: Iron on PCB Papers.
Some good cheap ideas there. Someone another post did correct me on the orientation of the drawing ,after I nearly drove myself daft trying to work it out. I've always worked directly on the copper, so I've always done my PCBs from he underside, but since I need to draw them so that the ink transfers to the underside as a reverse copy, I've had to re educate my drawing eye.
Up till now I've used Ferric chloride and not knowing there was any alternative ,but unwittingly bought Sodium Persulphate from Maplin. My old Ferric procedure was to put tray of etchant into warm water in a glazed sink( glazed could be bleached clean if/when any ferric got into water, when finished - saves any marital problems), and agitate /inspect till finished. Be interesting to see how the Sodium Persulphate performs. ( onceI find the "safe" place I've put it) I've mentioned this elsewhere, but it might be of interest /to try ,for those using light boxes. Print the circuit as for the iron method( observing the orientation) and heat transfer the ink to one side of a lamination pouch. |
24th Apr 2016, 3:22 pm | #7 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: London, UK.
Posts: 3
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Re: Iron on PCB Papers.
Be careful with Sodium Persulphate. I have lost more than one item of clothing to etching without a lab coat using Sodium Persulphate
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