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Old 10th Oct 2019, 5:50 pm   #1
G0HFCFrank
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Default Philips V5A

Hi Folks,
I'm going through a Philips V5A, re-capping as I go and have come to the band-pass capacitors, C4 (0.016MFD) and C5 (0.025MFD) on the Trader service sheet. As there are no dc voltages in this area I'm tempted to leave the originals in. Should it be necessary to change them what values should I sub for them? I'm thinking 0.01 and 0.022 or are the originals more critical than that? Any thoughts please?
Frank C.
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Old 10th Oct 2019, 6:31 pm   #2
Nuvistor
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Default Re: Philips V5A

C4 perhaps 0.015ufd
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Old 11th Oct 2019, 6:51 pm   #3
mister valve
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Default Re: Philips V5A

I am intrigued to know the best way to restore one of these sets as I also have one unrestored. As readers and restorers will know, the 'works' are strung around the cabinet in, (what looks at first sight, but really isn't), a chaotic manner. Is it best to take the whole 'works' out of the cabinet, do the necessary, then put it all back in the cabinet again ? I welcome any comments especially from anyone who has been brave enough to restore one of these "Philips Theatrettes"
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Old 11th Oct 2019, 8:52 pm   #4
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Default Re: Philips V5A

Well ..... obviously you have to take the plywood base out [and usually treat the woodworm] - then it's simply a case of working point-to-point. Obviously the speaker needs to be removed in order to launder and/or re-manufacture a bag. The silk speaker cloth needs to come out and be cleaned or changed too. Close attention must be paid to all the tuning gang and cord drive arrangements too [cleaning/careful lubrication etc.] .... because it's one of those mad arrangements which frequently 'de-rail'.

To my mind, the worst part is dealing with all the pitch caps, performing a lot of re-wiring, and taking valve base voltages.

However - these sets are pretty good performers - and sound great.

Get stuck in!
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Old 12th Oct 2019, 2:54 pm   #5
G0HFCFrank
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Default Re: Philips V5A

Nuvistor, Yes, thanks, of course 0.015MFD (I must have an intermittent brain fault).
Mr Valve, I'm part way through restoring mine and it's not too horrendous. So far I've taken out the PSU as Tractionist suggests and have re-strung the dial mechanism. The dial pulleys mount on metal sleeves, slightly longer than the pulley is wide and this permits the mounting screws to be tightened without pinching the pulleys. Once these are freed off it all works fine. I'm only replacing wires as required as whilst some have crumbled a lot of the rubber coverings are fine. All the black caps are going but the reservoir and soothing caps will be retained in situe for the look of the thing.

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