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Old 3rd Apr 2006, 2:13 pm   #1
Sideband
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Default Cleaning copper cans; Philips Superinductance set.

Hi Guys.

I am just starting to work on a Philips Superinductance set (274A) from 1934. It's in excellent condition with just a carpet of dust on the top deck. It's cleaned up very well but there is some dust and dirt stuck on the top of the copper coil cans. These cans are not bright smooth and have a rough surface. I think some sort of clear cleaner or even foam cleaner would be ok but it would then need to be brushed off.

Anybody got any ideas on how to tackle these? Does anyone know if it's possible to just remove the cans, leaving the coils in situ or do you have to remove the whole assembly and then remove the can from the coil?

The object is to disturb as little as possible. It's the first set of this type I have tackled and I intend to rebuild all the paper capacitors and the two electrolytics to maintain original looks.

I've included a couple of pictures.
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Old 3rd Apr 2006, 3:34 pm   #2
Ben_Dijkman
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

Hello Richard.
Please try not remove these can's!
By using a copper/ brass-brush (=spark- brush)(toothbrush size) your problem is solved in just 1 minute.
A vacuum-cleaner can help to catch the dust,during your brush session.
(Copper dust in your nose is not a pleasant experience.)
Succes guaranteed!!
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Old 4th Apr 2006, 10:15 am   #3
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

Thanks Ben.

I didn't want to remove the coils anyway! The spark-plug brush sounds a good idea so I'll get scrubbing....should have thought of something like that myself!

The next major job to tackle is the rebuild of the capacitor block mounted under the chassis.....but thats another thread



Rich.
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Last edited by Darren-UK; 28th Aug 2007 at 4:06 pm. Reason: Somewhat OT question removed.
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Old 5th Apr 2006, 2:33 am   #4
John Bartley
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

Just a thought here ... those battery powered oscillating toothbrushes sell over here pretty cheap - about $10-$12. Toothpaste is a slightly abrasive polishing compound ... the moistness of the toothpaste should keep the dust to a minimum ...

Ok - a bit nuts, but worth a try?
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Old 5th Apr 2006, 9:28 am   #5
Alvin
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

The copper bottoms on my saucepans come up a treat with BarKeepers Friend http://www.homecareproducts.co.uk/bkf.htm available in supermarkets and hardware stores so I just had a quick go at one of the cans in my 830A - pic attached - problem is now I'll have to finish the job or leave it alone for another seventy years to tarnish over again

I've just noticed a link to Copper Glo on the above web page so that might be worth investigating or I'm sure a quick glance along the cleaning products in your local supermarket will find other suitable products.

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Old 14th Apr 2006, 9:59 pm   #6
Ben_Dijkman
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

The problem is ,there are used two kinds of copper coilcan's in Philips radio's:

A)rough copper cans.
B)shiny polished copper cans.
To clean the rough can's there is no better& faster solution that the brass-brush.By using polish there will stay allways a residu in the roughbrass that makes the result mostly even worse.
The polished copper can can be cleaned up first with the brass brush
(or steel-wool) allso:
It's alway's a fast and good first-aid.Aftherworth's you have to polish these can's with commandant nr 4 or any other polish you like,to bring back the nice shiny look.
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Old 14th Apr 2006, 10:26 pm   #7
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

Hi Ben.

The copper brush idea worked a treat . The cans cleaned up very well. The rest of the chassis is pretty good and just required superficial cleaning. Now starting on the re-build.


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Old 15th Apr 2006, 12:19 am   #8
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Default Re: Cleaning copper cans Philips Superinductance set.

Hi
If these cans can be removed a mixture of salt and vinegar is pretty effective in cleaning copper. Obviously it would be necessary to varnish them afterwards to prevent natural oxidation.
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