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Old 10th Nov 2009, 11:06 pm   #1
howard
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Default 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Hello again,

I acquired this Bush TV22 at a Wootton Bassett auction earlier in the year for £60 which is a good price for one of these and as Mike Barker said when the lot came up even its tube was worth more than that but no one wanted it so I bid (with a bit of encouragement from Edward (Igranic)) and I won it. It didn't look particularly good but under the dust and grime I reckonned that the set was in good restorable condition .... and it was.

The Bush TV22 was released in 1950 and is a superhet, unlike its predecessor the TV12 which is a TRF, and it was the first UK built TV which could be tuned into any one of the BBC channels transmitting vision frequencies between 45 MHz and 66.75 MHz. Inside this set I found capacitors and potentiometers dated 1951 which confirmed that it was an early example and according to the Bush service manual dated January 1952 has 15 Mullard valves - 7 x EF91, 2 x EB91, PL33, 2 x ECL80, PL38, EY51, PZ30 and an MW22-14 or MW22-18 9 inch tube, but this one has the better Dutch built Mullard MW22-16 tube with an ion trap and it has been suggested during discussions on the forum that this tube was in fact fitted to all TV22s built not long after its launch. The TV22A was released in 1952 with a different complement of valves but the earlier model seems to be the more desirable of the two nowadays, I've no idea why. What is really nice about all TV22s though is the bakelite cabinet, which is neatly designed and quite compact which makes them more interesting than the more common wooden cased TV sets of their time.

So where does one start with a dusty lump of 60 year old television set which probably hadn't been used for 50 years ? Well, I certainly didn't plug it into the mains and switch it on, besides this one was missing most of its valves and its loudspeaker !
So the first thing I did was to accumulate all the new parts needed to restore it. I managed to obtain a 6 x 4 inch loudspeaker from Ebay for £5, missing EF91 and EB91 valves from Ron Bryan, 2 x NOS ECL80s, a PL38, a spare PZ30 and NOS EY51 valves and an original Bush plug (the last one) from Mike Lewis and 50 odd new capacitors from Justradios in Canada.

Chassis cleaning
I removed the chassis from the case, took out the lower RF deck and cleaned all the dust and wax off of the chassis. I polished the aluminium container fitted around the large octal EHT valves and also the chrome plated dropper assembly.

Replacement of wax capacitors and valves
I then spent three days replacing all its wax paper capacitors, around 45 of them. I placed the original cases back over the new caps where visible on the top of the chassis but not over those underneath the decks. Not an easy job cos as usual with Bush built 1950s chassis, component wires were wrapped round and round the tags but I managed to remove them all. Some of the old wax capacitors were later tested and all were leaky so it was worthwhile if not entirely necessary replacing them all. I cleaned all the valve sockets and fitted/refitted the valves. The original EY51 soldered onto the LOPT was left in place.

Loudspeaker
Not only was the loudspeaker missing but also all four nuts had gone too, and the wiring had been cut short. So I replaced the two wires with some RS silicone sheathed wire and Ron managed to find 4 x 2BA brass nuts from Clerkenwell Screws Ltd when visiting London. I then fitted the loudspeaker, the ebay replacement came from a contemporary Bush radio and it's the same brand and spec and almost identical in appearance to the original.

Initial start up - open circuit frame oscillator transformer discovered
I made up a new mains lead and took the set around to Ron Bryan for its initial test. As I hadn't managed to find suitable capacitors to stuff into the large 0.75uF hum cancellation capacitor on top of the main deck it was disconnected. The HT ballast resistor was initially disconnected from the mains tapping selector so just the valve heaters were energised. The polarity of the mains lead was checked (as this is an AC/DC chassis) and then the set was connected to the mains supply via an isolation transformer and Variac and switched on but no valves lit up. Oops I had missed fitting one of the EF91 valves hidden behind an IFT on the RF deck so one was fitted but still nothing. The heater circuit was checked and one EF91 was found not to be making good contact so it was removed, the pins and socket cleaned, the valve replaced and when the set was switched back on all the valve heaters lit up. Hooray, it seemed that some progress was being made at last .... The ballast resistor was reconnected and the set was left on for a few minutes at around 170 Volts 200mA to allow the electrolytic capacitors including the smoothing capacitors to reform but then smoke was spotted coming from the chassis somewhere and the set was promptly switched off. We worked out that the smoke was probably coming from R28, a 38 ohm HT resistor on the side of the main deck as it was extremely hot so we persevered and switched the set back on and increased the voltage to 230V with smoke still coming out of the chassis. The audio was now working and at full volume we could even hear a faint breakthrough of the local AM radio station County Sound, but there was no line whistle or frame buzz and nothing on the screen. The smoothing capacitors were then tested, the 16uF capacitor C25 was fine but the large 250uF + 60uF C26/C27 was knackered so it was disconnected and new 100uF and 60uF electrolytics were tacked in. Smoke was still coming out of the chassis, so there was a possibility that R38 was overheating due to the output line stage taking too much current so the PZ30 and PL38 valves were changed, the 2uF scan coil isolating capacitor and 2uF boost voltage reservoir capacitor were replaced but that made no difference. The frame blocking oscillator transformer T2 was then checked and its primary winding was found to be open circuit so that ended the first test, but at least the smoke had almost stopped, I guess most of the old wax and dust had burnt off of R28.........

Frame oscillator transformer repair (T2).
This was removed and sent off to Ed Dinning to be rewound.

Replacement of the tube clamp
The original brass clamp which was fitted around the front of the tube had broken in three places, where the original rubber blocks had been situated, which meant that the tube wasn't secured and that the chassis couldn't safely be turned on its side to work on. Ron thought of using some 3/4 inch wide sleeved flat earth braid which is used as low impedance earthing of industrial computer hardware so a piece of that was cut and holes drilled near to the ends, and then that was bolted to ‘L’ shaped pieces cut from the ends of original brass clamp. That was fitted over the tube and it works well.

Line oscillator check - a band appears on the screen
While we awaited the return of the frame oscillator transformer, the line oscillator was checked. The 50k ohm Colvern line hold potentiometer was found to be open circuit so its back cover was prised off and the winding inside cleaned with Servisol 10 and that sorted it out. The brightness control potentiometer was also cleaned. A faint line whistle could now be heard and no smoke now coming from the chassis. After adjusting the brightness control and the line sync potentiometer, a narrow (20mm high, full width) scan appeared on the tube. The Brightness control was still very touchy, even after cleaning, but a position was found where the band appeared focussed, but other positions on these pots give a blank screen or defocussed trace. The HT measured about 175V with 230V AC mains input and the boost voltage about 62V above HT.

EHT check
A small spark could now be drawn from the PL38 anode connection and a slightly bigger spark from the LOPT overwind.
The EHT was checked with Ron's Brandenburg EHT meter and it measured about 5kV which is rather low. However Ron wasn't convinced that his meter was working properly as the measured voltage drifted down to 4.5kV yet the picture width hadn't changed. A cold check was then made to determine the resonant frequency of the LOPT (Line Output Transformer), with the power off ! An audio oscillator was applied to the PL38 anode via a 100k resistor and a ‘dip’ was observed on the oscilloscope. The resonance was found to be 36 kHz, not 38.1 as advised in Darius's forum thread so maybe C20 the 470pF 750V silvered mica capacitor under the LOPT cap had drifted.... I tried to find to find a replacement 470pf 750V silver mica capacitor but the only one of sufficient voltage that I found was on the Farnell UK website but in US stock which meant coughing up a £16 surcharge to ship one over. A signal generator tuned to 41.5 MHz was applied to the aerial input and amazingly a 400Hz tone was heard on the speaker as the set tuning knob was adjusted. The signal generator was then set to 45MHz, but there was no hint of a pattern on the screen. So possibly a problem with the vision detector as the video amp seemed to have screen and anode volts and was taking current ? Swapping the EB91 sound and vision detectors made no difference.

Frame oscillator transformer replaced - faulty brightness potentiometer found
The rewound frame blocking oscillator transformer arrived and was re-fitted. Almost immediately, a frame buzz is heard and a sawtooth waveform is observed on the frame oscillator grid. The frame hold potentiometer was adjusted to allow the oscillator to free run at 50Hz. It was observed that the screen is now being scanned, but we still had a touchy brightness control as before. The g2 voltage on the tube (i.e the junction of the Metrosil and 0.1uF capacitor) was checked and 78V was found there. The tube g1 voltage (slider of brightness pot) was measured and that was found to be zero for most of the pot travel. So the brightness control potentiometer was disconnected and the track was found to be open circuit near one end. A similar 50k Colvern pot was found, the set was switched off and the faulty pot removed and the new one temporarily fitted.

The PZ30 rectifier expired - initial picture adjustment
When the set was switched back on again, both timebases were silent and the sound was quieter than normal. The HT had dropped to 100V, but why? No obvious problems could be seen, and the HT current was less than normal, so that ruled out an HT short so we swapped the PZ30 with the one that originally came with the set, and the HT returned to about 176V and the timebases fired up. The PZ30 had indeed expired and and it rattled too. This time, the new brightness control gave smooth control of brightness and the frame scan could be clearly seen. The spacing between lines was excessive and the top linearity was poor to say the least. So the settings of the height control and vertical form control on the rear panel of the main deck were checked. They were adjusted and that improved the top linearity, and adjusting the height control reduced the gaps between the lines. I managed to get a NOS Colvern 50K ohm potentiometer from Mike Lewis, this came with a different spindle and without the positioning grub screw on its bakelite case, so I transplanted the winding from the new pot into the old pot case and that was fitted and it worked correctly.

RF deck tuning
At this stage we could have done with an Aurora but there none on the US website as a revised model was about to be released and Crowthorne tubes had sold out of them too. So an attempt was made to check the RF deck with an AM signal generator modulated at 400Hz. A 41.5MHz signal was applied to to the aerial socket and Ron managed to tune in the sound using the tuning control at the back of the RF deck. Resetting the generator to 45 MHz did not produce any patterns on the (unsynchronised) raster. The contrast was set to max and the generator output increased. A scope check on the video amp output showed a distorted sinewave with the generator set to 46.5 Mhz. Turning the interferance limiter to minimum (fully anticlockwise) reduced the distortion considerably. Changing the video amplifier (EF91) and swapping the sound and vision detectors (EB91) did not seem to make much difference to the sensitivity.
I sent a PM to Brianc who lives up in Reading, not far from here, and asked if we could bring the TV22 up to him and use his Aurora there, but he very kindly offered to loan me one and so I went up and collected it and had a look at some of his vintage TV sets at the same time including his stunning Marconiphone 703.

Aurora attached - success !
The temporary 100uF HT smoothing capacitor was replaced with a another temporary and more suitable 270uF 400V capacitor. A coax cable was made up to connect the Aurora to the RF deck aerial input. The Aurora was connected and the vision signal was tuned in. A test card appeared and synchronised after a small adjustment to the line sync control. A better picture was then obtained after adjusting the contrast and brightness controls to eliminate flyback lines. The picture was focussed, notwithstanding the focus lever being missing. The HT now measured at 193V on the reservoir capacitor, the boosted HT measured 255V on the boost reservoir capacitor and the LOPT core did not seem to be getting excessivly hot.
The EHT measured 5.4kV on the CRT anode cap, using Ron's still faulty 0-30kV Brandenberg EHT meter. The set was reassembled, a DVD player was connected to the Aurora and both sound and vision were seen and we then watched the Everly Brothers for a while.

Ron's Brandenberg EHT meter was tested at John Wakely’s place. A low (approx 4kV) pulsing deflection was achieved when connected to the Ekco TMB272 on the bench, compared to the 9kV measured on his instrument. John found that the meter EHT probe connector would not screw in sufficiently to the polythene insulator on the instrument, as the thread was very tight, leaving a gap. He rectified this with a dab of MS4 silicone grease on the thread. Once this was done, the Brandenberg reading was comparable to John’s EHT meter.

Main smoothing capacitor repair (C26/C27)
The main twin smoothing capacitor is rated at 250uF + 60uF 350V AC and is housed in a very large aluminium can. I usually use a pipe cutter to cut through the cans but this one was too big, so Edward (Igranic) very kindly offered to cut open the can using his lathe. This was done near the bottom of the can so that once the can was resealed with sellotape the join would be covered by the clamp on the front of the chassis. He also cut a piece of plastic water pipe to fit inside to strengthen it which is a perfect fit. I couldn't find high voltage capacitors of the original capacitance so I obtained compact 68uF and 270uF 400 volt Panasonic electrolytics from Farnells (£6.76 the pair) which Ron fitted inside the can and the repaired capacitor was fitted to the chassis and the temporary caps tacked on were removed. . The HT was a now little higher at 202V and the EHT measured 7.2kV with the repaired Brandenberg meter – much more realistic than the 5kV measured earlier!

Hum cancellation capacitor repair (C28)
I had two goes at repairing this which is an unusual 0.75uF 250V AC wax paper tubular capacitor, initially I stuffed 0.50uf and 0.25uF 630V DC polyester capacitors wired in parallel inside the original case but it was calculated that they weren't quite up to the job (778 Volts peak to peak) so I then acquired 3 x 0.25uF 275V AC class X2 capacitors from Justradios, taped them together, connected them in parallel and stuffed those inside. I had to cut the outer case down one side to enable all its original contents to be removed but I saved all the original wax from the ends and after I had pressed the case back together I poured it back over the end caps after melting it in a spoon held over a gas ring.

Cabinet restoration
The bakelite cabinet was very dirty and a bit matt but apart from a little scratch on the side and a few more on the top and a tiny dink on the front it is in good condition and has no chips or cracks whatsoever. I took off the mask and glass screen, gave the case a quick scrub with B&Q upholstery cleaner inside and out and then gave it a good polish with Brasso and it came up nice. I touched in the little dink on the front with a Liberon touch up pen and finally gave the case a polish with a little Liberon beeswax in turpentine polish and it now looks very nice. The mask had some mould growing on it, but I cleaned that off with upholstery cleaner and then renovated it with grey leather polish. It has very minor surface cracking but that is virtually invisible now. The glass screen was polished with car polish and the cabinet reassembled.

Focus lever
Both the lever and also the metal piece connecting it to the assembly on the back to the tube were missing and so I had no idea what the originals looked like or what it was made from. Those details were provided on the forum including a template for the paxolin lever, so I was able made up the lever from a piece of thick paxolin and and the connection piece from a piece of aluminium.

Wiring
The only decayed wiring was found next to the dropper so we replaced two wires attached to the 'E' and 'H' connectors with new RS components silicone sheathed wire and replaced the sleeves over the tags.

Resistors
Ron performed random tests on many of the original resistors and they were OK but John Wakely had suggested checking R17, the 820k ohm ECL80 anode load and horizontal charge resistor, and it was found to have gone up in resistance by more than 20% so that was duly replaced.

Final picture adjustments
A little adjustment was needed to centralise the picture within the mask, but that was straightforward.

All done
It took us three months to restore this early TV22 and now it works really well. It was unfortunate that the frame oscillator transformer and a Colvern potentiometer had failed, but then on the other hand this set has an excellent original tube and more remarkably a fully working original LOPT which has no cracks in its tar coating. The picture and sound quality are both very good and the set looks superb. The total cost of the set and new components totalled £130 but the new Aurora which is on order with Crowthorne tubes will be another £175.

This then is a really nice working vintage TV set to add to my collection.

My thanks to Ed Dinning, Edward Bean, John Wakely, Brianc and all who responded to my queries on the forum, but especially to Ron Bryan who diagnosed all the faults along the way and without whose help this TV22 would still be a dusty lump of 60 year old TV set !

Howard
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Old 10th Nov 2009, 11:31 pm   #2
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

You've done a splendid job on that TV22. I was lucky with mine that the field oscillator transformer was OK although I had smoke when I powered up the heater chain which was the heater chain thermistor. I replaced all the wax caps in mine plus the 2uF electrolytics which were replaced by non electrolytics as I didn't think that the modern electrolytics would take the scan current.

The 16uF cap on mine looked OK but eventually failed giving a poor picture and sound. I haven't changed the main caps but have suitable replacements available.

Mine has the Dutch tube and the later EF80 receiver. I think it was built late 52 or early 53 and was bought specifically for the Coronation.

Keith
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Old 10th Nov 2009, 11:35 pm   #3
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Now you've got the bug. Radios will no longer be quite enough....

Seriously though, well done old bean and a well written write up to boot. Can we have a picture of it working?

Cheers,

Steve P.
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 12:06 pm   #4
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Nice to see a TV set receive the Howard treatment.

Great write-up, beautiful end result. What's not to like?
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 12:30 pm   #5
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Wonderful job and a great write up (as usual).

I look forward to seeing a picture on it too.
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 1:26 pm   #6
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Quote:
Originally Posted by howard View Post
A little adjustment was needed to centralise the picture within the mask, but that was straightforward.
LOL- It took me a day to find the adjusters.

Nice restoration. What is that green glow around the back of the mask in picture three?
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 1:38 pm   #7
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

David

The green glow is the green sleeved earthing braid we used to clamp the bulb end of the tube. I believe the sleeving is LS0H (low smoke zero halogen).

Ron

Last edited by ronbryan; 11th Nov 2009 at 1:58 pm.
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 2:31 pm   #8
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Hello again,

After a lot of trial and error, lights down, flash off, 3 second exposure etc., I've managed to take a pic of the test card.

Howard
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 3:17 pm   #9
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

That tv makes me hungry--looks like a big chunk o' shiny, delicious chocolate!

And if you've seen my recent videos, I need more chocolate like a hole in the head....
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 3:35 pm   #10
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilley View Post
It took me a day to find the adjusters.
I haven't got the hang of it yet ! It was all set up nicely by Ron at his place but after the trip home, about 2 miles, it was out of adjustment and I don't think I've quite got it right again. Still, it works !

Howard
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Old 11th Nov 2009, 3:44 pm   #11
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

One screw adjusts vertically and the other horizontally. There is a very small amount of drift on mine after a few hours. This shouldn't happen as the scan coils are both ac coupled so I put it down to slight thermal changes on the focus assembly as the set reaches boiling point.

Lovely picture. No ion burn at all.

P.s. Roger Bunney used to go in depth on photography. You should only need to go down under frame rate so 15/Sec should be adequate.

Dave
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Old 12th Nov 2009, 12:22 am   #12
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Well that was well worth the effort. Cabinet looks very shiny as usual. I must have a go at mine again, it seams to have gone dull. Now I expect you will get a Perdio Portarama
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Old 12th Nov 2009, 1:02 am   #13
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Fantastic restoration Howard! You and Ron have done a really excellent job!

I'm strictly a radio man myself, but if I was ever to be persuaded to add a vintage TV to my collection it would just have to be a Bush TV22 I think. That style of bakelite case is just so desirable.

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Old 12th Nov 2009, 11:45 am   #14
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Post Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

It is remarkable to see this TV working after being left for so long in a derelict state before being rescued. A mug of tea and custard creams where the order of the day as I read Howard's write up of this excellent restoration

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Old 12th Nov 2009, 10:28 pm   #15
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Excellent and highly inspirational write-up and a fantastic end result. What an amazing finish on the bakelite case! One of the best I've seen.

I was lucky enough to find my TV22 last year at the local house clearance / junk outdoor market in Nottingham where it was sat on the ground among the general household tat, old saucepans, grubby microwave ovens and broken hi-fi. The guy wanted £30 for it. I couldn't get the cash out of my back pocket fast enough!

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Old 5th Dec 2009, 1:59 am   #16
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Howard,
Impressive. How did you manage to get the chassis components so clean and shiny?

Barry
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Old 5th Dec 2009, 10:25 am   #17
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

As usual Howard, an excellent restoration. Maybe we can have some pictures of actual programmes when you have your Aurora fixed up?

I have to say that that is a superb test card. The geometry is a whole lot better than some later CRT models.

I think I will have to get one of these even if it's the only vintage TV I ever get....!


Excellent work from you and Ron

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Old 5th Dec 2009, 9:00 pm   #18
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Lloyd View Post
How did you manage to get the chassis components so clean and shiny?
Hello Barry,

I cleaned the two chassis decks with white spirit - they're still a little pitted but then TV22 chassis often are. The can around the EHT valves and the shiny dropper assembly were polished with Brasso. I could I guess have dismantled and polished the brass assembly around the end of the tube as well but wasn't sure if that would be a good idea. I always clean valves with upholstery cleaner taking care not to rub off the print and then wipe off with a moist paper towel.

Howard
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Old 6th Dec 2009, 1:19 am   #19
Barry Lloyd
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Thanks Howard, that's really useful. I have a TUG24 that is working fine but needs a good clean and polish. I had never though of trying Brasso on aluminium but after seeing your photos I will definitely give it a try.

Barry
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Old 6th Dec 2009, 1:30 am   #20
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Default Re: 1951 Bush TV22 405 line B/W Television set

Really good job and useful write-up Howard!
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