Ferguson 3238

[alanworland]

Been wanting one of these for a long time. Had one in my teens and as I still have some Alan Freeman tapes this came along at the right time! I can remember my original had so much use I had to fit brass bushes in the keys as being plastic they became quite sloppy!
Anyway this one arrived today looking very original, caps have a 1968 date on them. It all looks in great 'little used' condition. Came from the loft of a house someone had just moved into, so no history.
As soon as I opened the lid 'that smell' brought all the memories back! Really looking forward to working on this.
Markings on the lid sort of suggests it might have been used in a school possibly?

Alan

[dazzlevision]

These are rather good domestic tape recorders and appeared in a variety of cabinet styles and brand names.

They use the Thorn DC43 tape deck and the electronics is all valve, apart from one transistor driving the record level meter.

You'll probably need to do a fair bit of mechanical refurbishment, as the lubrication used when they were made will be rather tired by now. In particular, there is an idler wheel mounted on a swinging arm, underneath the deck, that is moved either up or down when you select a different tape speed. The grease in the arm pivot dries out and it no longer swivels correctly, causing speed change/erratic speed problems.

You'll need to move the motor out of the way in order to get to it. Once the motor is moved, secure the end of a coil spring that is hooked over a "notch" in the large metal plate, so it doesn't come away when you work on the swivelling arm. My photos show the part after major dismantling, but you should only need to move the motor out of the way to do the job (it is a bit fiddly though!).

Luckily, apart from two paper dielectric capacitors, which you should change, all other non-electrolytic types are either ceramic or plastic dielectric. One of the paper types is fitted on the tags of the audio output transformer (a Hunts black or brown cased 3nF 300Vac type) and the other is a grey plastic cased "Dubilier" branded 3nF type near one of the longer edges of the PCB and close the the PCB edge).

[alanworland]

Thanks for the tips, when I get to the powering up stage would it be advisable to run it up gradually with a Variac? I have the service manuals for the deck and the electronics which both look very comprehensive. Removing top deck cover it all looks very good but obviously lubricants have gone a bit tacky, idler wheels spin freely with good looking rubber. Guide 'rollers' are showing signs of rust but looks unworn and should polish up ok. Underneath looks very clean. Don't think this has had much use and showing no signs of being 'got at'!
Nice Crabtree mains plug, although fitted with a 13 amp fuse. Both plastic hinges for the lid are broken but other than that it's looking good on its preliminary inspection!

Alan

[dazzlevision]

I've serviced many of these DC43 mono recorders and their DC432 stereo version.

I've never had any problems with the rubber idlers going hard (unlike in BSR TD2 and TD10 decks). I've found the pinch rollers are also still pliable.

I don't think there's any need to power the recorder up using a Variac. However, I'd check that the motor spins freely first.

The three section HT smoothing can electrolytic (C20, 21 & 22) seems to be very robust as well - I've never had to replace one. However, I would replace the ECL86's cathode bias resistor's decoupler (50uF C24) and the HT decoupler to the first ECC83 stage (8uF C3), as the types usually fitted will most likely be u/s by now. The two solenoid supply reservoir electrolytics (450uF C26 and C28) are usually OK.

I'd also check the value of the ECL86 pentode's cathode bias resistor (R38 150 Ohms). Like almost all the low power resistors on the PCB, they're Erie carbon composition types, which tend to increase in value with the passing years.

The Westinghouse (UK) HT bridge metal rectifier is usually OK, but worth checking the HT voltages.

I have come across a faulty ECC82 bias oscillator valve, causing low bias amplitude feeds to the erase and record/play heads.

If the Rec/Play slider switch contacts look tarnished, a squirt of Servisol is advisable.

The small push-on connectors to the R/P head windings tend to become intermittent, but if they are carefully slid off and gently closed up with pliers, will then be OK.

The record level meter fitted in earlier models using the same deck and electronics was made by Smiths and is often faulty. Later production, such as your Ferguson 3238 will almost certainly used a Bertram meter, which has proved to be a lot more reliable.

[DMcMahon]

Similar to my 3216.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=182274

David

[alanworland]

Wow, once again thanks for your response, you obviously really knows these decks! A few years ago I did purchase a stereo version at a boot sale but decided it had too much 'petina' for my liking so passed it on.
Will keep you all posted on my findings.

Alan

[dazzlevision]

Originally Posted by DMcMahon

Similar to my 3216.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=182274

David

Here's a list of the models and brands that used the Thorn DC43 tape deck and the three valve mono electronics:

Ferguson 3214, 3216*, 3230 and 3238

* cabinet styling matches the contemporary Ferguson “Unit Audio” range

HMV 2208

Marconiphone 4210, 4212 and 4238

Ultra 6206 and 6212

First model range release: 3214, 3216*, 2208, 4210 and 6206

Second model range release: 3230, 4212 and 6212
(now with removable cabinet bottom covers)

Final model range release: 3238 and 4238
(“refreshed” cabinet styles).

I've also seen a "Pilot" brand model that looks remarkably similar to the Ferguson 3214. Thorn Electrical Industries (owner of the Ferguson Radio Corporation) acquired the Pilot brand when they bought Ultra Radio & Television Ltd in 1961.

[Nickthedentist]

Here's a Pilot machine which is definitely a Thorn in disguise: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39646

[locknut]

I'm sure I have a Marconiphone branded one somewhere, looks identical.

[alanworland]

Well I had a session with the Ferguson today, I found all the idlers were quite free to rotate although I did have them apart for a clean and fresh oil including the tape platters and pinch wheel.
Speed change however was gummy (and yes Dazzlevision the spring came off!) Heads look fine and what I thought was rust was tape oxide! Changed capacitors as suggested, strange I couldn't measure values of either but the Hunts was obviously well past its use by date.
To be continued.

Alan

[dazzlevision]

Originally Posted by alanworland

Changed capacitors as suggested, strange I couldn't measure values of either but the Hunts was obviously well past its use by date.
To be continued.

Alan

Those white, plastic cased Hunts (later branded Erie) electrolytics are famous for being virtually open circuit by this time in their life.

[alanworland]

Bit more on the Ferguson today, stuck some of the lifting vinyl edges back down. When it came to the top plastic chassis cover the 'anodised look' silver top strip has developed an upwards bulge so I was hoping to remove it altogether and assemble it back in position.
I was thinking careful use of a hot air gun to get the old adhesive mobile?
Does this sound a good approach to removal any mechanical method (scrapers) would undoubtedly cause it damage.

Alan

[Reelman]

Alan,

You might like to have a look at this previous thread about this very problem…

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=216971

These recorders always have this issue in my experience….. does the metal expand over the years or does the plastic contract?

Peter

[dazzlevision]

I haven’t used the application of heat method myself. I think you’d need to be very, very careful not to accidentally soften the black plastic deck cover onto which the Aluminium trip strips are (were!) stuck onto.

[alanworland]

Peter, thanks got to be worth a try! I don't think the 'metal' panel is metal, I believe it is a grained plastic to have the appearance of?

Alan

[Reelman]

Originally Posted by alanworland

Peter, thanks got to be worth a try! I don't think the 'metal' panel is metal, I believe it is a grained plastic to have the appearance of?

Alan

I always thought that it was thin aluminium but I haven’t looked recently. Your suggestion makes the expand/contract theory a distinct possibility.

Good luck with yours and let us know how it goes. It is certainly a niggle to see the little hump!

Peter.

[alanworland]

Peter your spot on, it's metal but oh so thin!
Tackled removing the panel with careful use of a hot air gun and sliding a thin rule underneath it and it came off a treat! Left a hell of a mess underneath.
Looks like it was fixed with a double sided tape and I also removed the membrane using the same method. Cleaned up the residue with mainly meths and stuck the panel back with double sided tape, went really well!
Powered it up this afternoon and really pleased with its performance running it through my Quad system playing tapes I had recorded decades ago, don't remember it sounding so good!
Just awaiting some hinges to replace the broken originals.

Alan

[Reelman]

Well done Alan!
That’s a good result and useful to know that the strip has not become “too long” for the place it should be.
Glad you are enjoying it.

Peter