UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Powered By Google Custom Search Vintage Radio and TV Service Data

Go Back   UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum > Specific Vintage Equipment > Vintage Test Gear and Workshop Equipment

Notices

Vintage Test Gear and Workshop Equipment For discussions about vintage test gear and workshop equipment such as coil winders.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11th Apr 2021, 4:48 am   #1
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Exclamation Thandar TG2001

Thandar TH2001, has about 8 pins on the primary side of transformer and I am trying to convert this transformer from 220 volts to 120 volts I have messaged TTI as the other closed forum has stated and have not got no response. Also I have damaged the 50 ohm output and I was also in repair of that at this time I have purchased a second working unit but the frequency fluctuates slowly up and down and does not remain steady I do plan on fully restoring both of these function generators. my question is is there anyone out there that could help with some kind of information the reason I made this post is because it has been quite a while since the last post the other guy made and it is possible more information has surfaced on these devices.

Thanks in advance Brian
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th Apr 2021, 5:18 pm   #2
Marconi_MPT4
Hexode
 
Marconi_MPT4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dorset, UK.
Posts: 427
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Hi Brian and welcome to the forum.

The following diagram illustrates how to configure for 120V mains.

You will need to remove any existing links between tags (usually No. 4 and 6) on the primary windings.

Add link between tags No. 4 and 8 and another between tags No. 2 and 6.

its possible the fuse may need to be increased in value, but I don't have the full manual to confirm this.

PM to follow.

Rich
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Thandar2001-120V.png
Views:	118
Size:	11.2 KB
ID:	231492  
__________________
To an optimist a glass is half full; a pessimist half empty; an engineer twice as big as need be!
Marconi_MPT4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2021, 1:23 am   #3
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Thank you so so much Marconi_MPT4, Your help is so much appreciated by me! I Purchased a total of 6 TG2001 Because I fell in love with this model out of all the other models. I feel like this machine has the most purest of waveforms and I am amazed by the layout of the front panel. I doubt the newer function generators ebay sells thats fairly cheap.

i'm in the stage of troubleshooting this board and I am having some upmost extreme difficulty Locating the faults of the board that is malfunctioning after a amplitude burnout of the 50 ohm circuitry. I have purchased several components and plan to learn and master this Thandar unit.

At this moment I have measured a total of 50 volts on the secondary side of the transformer as in the Transformer primary connected as in the documentation you shared with me. The Voltage Regulators LM317T and LM337T are severely overheating even after replacement. I removed every IC component from the board and I'm still having the overheating problem.

I removed 8 Transistors completely and Removed all the Motorola Transistors, as well as completely removed the LCD circuitry,, and Still having overheating problems.

I am unable to locate the fault at this time. However, I feel as if I do locate this fault the rest will come easy.

Any Ideals?
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2021, 12:00 pm   #4
Chris55000
Octode
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Walsall Wood, Aldridge, Walsall, UK.
Posts: 1,708
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Hi!

Either the transformer is mis–connected or there is short–circuited turns in the primary!

Most pieces of TTi equipment of this type use a standard type of chassis mount transformer you can order from RS – one of about 15V twice at 1A rating should be adequate rating for the TG2001!

You can get these in either single primary (230V) or dual primary (twice 115V).

I think the TG1000/TG2000 series of generators are of surface–mount construction so if you can run to the manual from TTi it really will be helpful!

Chris Williams
__________________
It's an enigma, that's what it is! This thing's not fixed because it doesn't want to be fixed!
Chris55000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2021, 1:43 pm   #5
Marconi_MPT4
Hexode
 
Marconi_MPT4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dorset, UK.
Posts: 427
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Although configured for 240V, looking at the secondary voltages on plug PJ5 I have the following measurements relative to T3 (black wire):
T1 Yellow 23.7V
T2 Orange 19.9V
T3 Black (reference 0V)
T4 Orange 19.8V
T5 Yellow 23.5V

Overall secondary voltage is approximately 47.2V AC between T1 and T5 (yellow wires) and is within ballpark of 50V measured. On that basis the transformer primary configuration appears to be correct.

Fuse rating would have to be increased for 120V operation. According to details printed on the back panel you should use a 500mA(T) 250V HRC 5x20mm. Surprising to see that power consumption is 50W (!)

Which pair of regulators are overheating as this may help diagnose which part of the circuit is at fault? There are at least eight but If IC29 and IC30 are cooking then it clearly points to excessive current being drawn by the output amp or something associated with it.

Rich
__________________
To an optimist a glass is half full; a pessimist half empty; an engineer twice as big as need be!
Marconi_MPT4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12th May 2021, 3:37 am   #6
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Thanks! your guy's post is very helpful!! And your Data on the output secondary of the transformer confirmed my suspicion as well, Glad to hear i'm on track with the transformer.

IC32 and IC36 was blazing hot! IC31 was starting to heat up to quickly. I found it impossible to find the LM317 so I settled for a LM338, I'm awaiting shipment from them. And Took a hard look and hope and prey my LM337's are not fakes! Waiting on that to come in the mail. spent 65 Bucks on that.

I recent learned Q32 is destroyed, I have not ordered that yet, as the are few and expensive, That is a ultra fast 500MHZ quick start up comonent that I have yet to find a replacement for, any ideals on that? I think 4 of them is 10 bucks on ebay if they arent fakes. I can steal one from one of my other Thandar gens.

I suspect IC17 and IC18 could be damaged due to Q32, Q32 is located right beneth the Amplitude potentiometer. near the power transistors. I also fear several zenior Diodes might need replacing, I have both diodes on hand. The only thing that really scares me is Q12, I have yet looked into what that even is or does, I would really hate to have to find that part since it has 6 terminals. I have replaced about 7 to 8 resistors. I'm stalled at this moment waiting on parts to come in. I also suspect Q28 and Q29 or the entire Buffer Circuit could be Damaged. I hope not, and I hope the Damage does not penatrate deep into the circuits.

The problem was, I used a Variac as a power source to power a Mosfet, and I was driving a (Bifillar Coil) with the fet Connected to the Variac Threw a DC bridge. I used the Thandar to Signal the Fet. I guess I ramped up the Variac to high and the fet broke down when It couldn't handle the Frequency. Thats when the variac went humming very loudly and smoke was rising from the gen, I assume R29 To R30 is where the smoke was coming from.

It's possible I further damaged the Thandar by incorrectly connecting the Transformer up, because I was using a scope and gaining measurments before I started screwing with that transformer, after that everything went to crap. I Think I need to give this thing a New Soul. Either way, I have Over a Thousand invested into Burnt up TG2001', As I have now a total of 7 of those units.

If I had known what a ***** it was going to be to order some of these components I would have just Bought a Cheapo, I am too far into this to back out now.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TG2001 circuit diagrams.pdf (2.85 MB, 64 views)
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13th May 2021, 2:14 pm   #7
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Please keep this thread open, I plan to add a ton of information repairing these units. It will take me some time because I will have to go through each individual circuit to Identify all the problems. I'm not far from mastering the entire board. However, I do HVAC for a living and at this time I can only study the repairs at night. Thanks for all your help everyone, you guys are amazing!

I really don't mean to double post, I'm just worried about it closing. I can delete this post later if needed be.
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13th May 2021, 6:28 pm   #8
factory
Heptode
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cheshire, UK.
Posts: 898
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Bit puzzled why you had trouble finding the LM317T, they are a very common adjustable regulator IC along with the the LM337T and aren't hard to obtain from reputable component suppliers eg Mouser or Digikey. It's possible you have a short circuit on the output of these regulated supplies and fitting a new one won't necessarily cure the problem.

Also not sure why R29-R30 would have burnt out, wouldn't the resistors around the main output attenuator be more likely to burn out if back fed from the Mosfet circuit you were testing, or were you using one the other outputs?

David
factory is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 14th May 2021, 11:00 pm   #9
ortek_service
Heptode
 
ortek_service's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Northampton, Northamptonshire, UK.
Posts: 629
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

It shouldn't be possible for an LM317 etc, to get hot if just that faulty, as the only high-current path is from input to output - As it's an adjustable regulator, there isn't a ground pin, but an adjust pin connected via a resistor potential-divider to it's output.

So for it to get hot, there must be a fault elsewhere, like a short on it's output.
Note: The metal tab on the TO-220 LM317T is the Output connection, so must be electrically insulated from any heatsink that is grounded.
ortek_service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16th May 2021, 9:22 am   #10
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Quote:
Originally Posted by factory View Post
Bit puzzled why you had trouble finding the LM317T, they are a very common adjustable regulator IC along with the the LM337T and aren't hard to obtain from reputable component suppliers eg Mouser or Digikey. It's possible you have a short circuit on the output of these regulated supplies and fitting a new one won't necessarily cure the problem.

Also not sure why R29-R30 would have burnt out, wouldn't the resistors around the main output attenuator be more likely to burn out if back fed from the MOSFET circuit you were testing, or were you using one the other outputs?

David
I think Mouser had it, I did look but apparently I didn't see it or I would have ordered it. I'm not that familiar with either of those sites since I've always used eBay and I think I googled the part number when I looked on the mouser website and I think it was something to do with the way I searched for it. But for the other regulator, not sure which it was I had to order 400 pcs to get it. Because of your post and a second look, I'm more familiar with the site, But still don't fully understand it. I'm not sure why R29-29 roasted black, I thought the same and was puzzled when they was not burnt around the attenuator. I was indeed using the 50 ohm output.

Quote:
It shouldn't be possible for an LM317 etc, to get hot if just that faulty, as the only high-current path is from input to output - As it's an adjustable regulator, there isn't a ground pin, but an adjust pin connected via a resistor potential-divider to it's output.

So for it to get hot, there must be a fault elsewhere, like a short on its output.
Note: The metal tab on the TO-220 LM317T is the Output connection, so must be electrically insulated from any heatsink that is grounded.
I did find a dead short where I replaced a diode, but I've repaired that, and I still see lots of heat. I Built the dual regulator circuit on a PCB and tested several of those regulators and then re-installed them back into the gen so I could better understand what was going on. It was a pain insulating the tab an the re-installation!

I have several problems going on, For example, I replaced Q8, This transistor still overheats, I removed 85% or the TTL/IC'S and I'm still having problems. I'm getting heat from a few different transistors. I did not think just by removing the IC's It would cause the Transistors to overheat, any thought on that?

I think because of my lack of perfections when soldering in the faulty rectifier diode it caused Q40 to get smoking hot so I removed it until I narrowed more of these problems down. Also, IC7 it's getting pretty hot so I replaced it, and it's still getting hot.. sigh.... I think the power supply circuit is good, I seem to be getting all the voltages, however without the heat sinks a few of the regulators will burn you. I'm trying the best I can to narrow this down, it's taking allot of time! I'm open for any suggestions, and will run any test recommended and report back. I plan on fixing this even if I'm 80 years old. I'm excited I have these units, but I'm also a bit worried because I haven't fixed it yet.
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16th May 2021, 4:01 pm   #11
Marconi_MPT4
Hexode
 
Marconi_MPT4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dorset, UK.
Posts: 427
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydrocarz View Post

I replaced Q8, This transistor still overheats... IC7 it's getting pretty hot so I replaced it, and it's still getting hot..
Taking Q8 in isolation, for overheating condition first ascertain if the +16V and -16V supplies are correct. Check D5 zener (5V6) and Q7 (2N3904) for leakage or short circuit and then finally check D4 (BAT181). Estimate about -10.4V on Q8 collector and -0.7V on Q8 base with VR29 centred.

For IC7 check power supplies -12V and +16V on pins 4 and 8 respectively, also be inclined to check D8 for leakage or short.

Rich
__________________
To an optimist a glass is half full; a pessimist half empty; an engineer twice as big as need be!
Marconi_MPT4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th May 2021, 10:59 am   #12
ortek_service
Heptode
 
ortek_service's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Northampton, Northamptonshire, UK.
Posts: 629
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

If there voltage regulators are still overheating, then it must be dissipating too much power compared to what its package / heatsink size is rated for.

And the excess power must be either too much current being drawn from them OR there's too much voltage being dropped across the regulators.
So it's probably a good idea to measure the Input voltage & the output voltage, and check that these are correct with what's on the schematic / in service manual.
If the output voltage is much-lower than it should be, then this could be either because > 1.5A is being drawn from the regulator or there is an issue with the feedback resistors. Having a much-lower output voltage, with same input voltage ./ current, will also cause more power dissipation in the regulator.

And should be able to measure the current being drawn, by either removing a series-component like a low-value resistor or the regulator's input / output pin, and inserting an ammeter (DMM set on Amps).

I couldn't easily find a service manual / schematic on the 'net for this, to look at. But someone did manage to get the schematic from TTI, without having to buy the service manual, in this ppast thread: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=128051

Where it seems the (obsolete?) output stage transistors are a common failure, as they are also discussed, here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair...-function-gen/

If there is a a short / overload in the output-stage, then this might be overloading the regulators etc.
ortek_service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2021, 7:31 am   #13
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

I replaced Q7 and Q8, I replaced D5 and checked D4. Q8 Runs hot enought to burn your pinkie, you want hold your Pinky tip on Q8 when the Pot VR29 is turned all the way over. I'm assuming that Q8 can handle the heat? Theres not really much more of an explanation unless the power supply is just screwed, which I did check and couldn't find any faults with it. I have diodes i'm using that is BZX55C5V6 which is the closest diodes I could find for a replacement. I assume this will be ok? I couldn't find just a 5V6 diode.

I feel like i've gotten even more familiar with the innerworkings of this unit.

The IC31\IC32 gets hot enough to burn you if no heat sink. Heat sink says cool.

Until Next time, it is a work in progress, this stuff takes time... . I did open a working TG2001 and observe the heat from the Logic chips. Some of them were pretty darn warm.

Sorry if I failed to reply to each post here, at this time.
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2021, 10:04 am   #14
ortek_service
Heptode
 
ortek_service's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Northampton, Northamptonshire, UK.
Posts: 629
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Well if you've got a working one, and the transistors (with heatsinks?) normally run very hot in that one, then it's maybe less of a concern on one you're trying to fix. Although if they do normally run that hot, then maybe why they can seem to be prone to failure.

If the regulators are running cool-enough with heatsinks fitted, then that shows they don't appear to be overloaded at least. From this internal-photo, on a past thread (re-attached here), it does seem that all the regulators are actually originally-heatsinked
- Although it's a bit too low resolution to find the mentioned ones: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...8&d=1468530387
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	thandar2001 edit.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	109.2 KB
ID:	234348  
ortek_service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2021, 3:10 pm   #15
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

That is one Beautiful unit! I'm in search of Bat81 at this time. I'm still concerned with the replacement diode I mentioned in the previous post.

Now when I look at this unit i'm not so confused, I currently dont have all the parts on hand to repair it. Theres a few transistors i'm having problems finding.

Also, is there a website that will allow me to search for replacement parts? I have a ton of the replacement motorola main transistors.
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2021, 5:29 pm   #16
Marconi_MPT4
Hexode
 
Marconi_MPT4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dorset, UK.
Posts: 427
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Farnell in the UK stocks BAT81S-TR which is a through hole component, but I believe Newark Electronics https://www.newark.com/ should have them. For some reason I am blocked from accessing their site!

The BZX55C5V6 zener should be OK to use. Check Newark.

I recognise that interior picture... I still have the original in a higher resolution if required.

Rich
__________________
To an optimist a glass is half full; a pessimist half empty; an engineer twice as big as need be!

Last edited by Marconi_MPT4; 18th May 2021 at 5:36 pm.
Marconi_MPT4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th May 2021, 12:55 am   #17
ortek_service
Heptode
 
ortek_service's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Northampton, Northamptonshire, UK.
Posts: 629
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

If the non-Motorola transistors are still current parts, then I would expect Digi-key, Mouser etc. in the USA to have these. Or if obsolete, maybe some alternatives, here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair...-function-gen/


Yes, I couldn't work out how to link directly to the photo on that previous thread, so re-posted it here for convenience.
But it would be nice if a zipped-up original-size one could be posted, that the forum didn't heavily compress, so that component reference numbers etc. might be readable.
- As there's surprisingly little on it - other than eevblog I'd linked to, with close-up of the power transistors inc. schematic for those.

The Service Manual for the TG501 can be found as a free download, but despite this being in the same TTI brochure with the TG2001, it does appears to be rather different (much-simpler) internally. Although it does cover mains-transformer connections, which might be similar: http://www.philipsradios.nl/Schemas/...TI%20TG501.pdf

TTI have some odd-numbering, as the TG2000 is a rather later (still current?) much smaller replacement?, that I do have one of.
- that isn't in the old 'TG2000-series' brochure, that did include the TG2001 & TG501: https://www.sglabs.it/public/TTi_TG5...000_series.pdf

Last edited by ortek_service; 19th May 2021 at 1:03 am.
ortek_service is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th May 2021, 7:53 pm   #18
factory
Heptode
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cheshire, UK.
Posts: 898
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Quote:
Originally Posted by ortek_service View Post
But it would be nice if a zipped-up original-size one could be posted, that the forum didn't heavily compress, so that component reference numbers etc. might be readable.
Higher resolution pictures can be uploaded if you convert them to pdf using print-to-pdf or similar.

David
factory is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2021, 4:01 am   #19
Hydrocarz
Triode
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Florence, Alabama, USA.
Posts: 13
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

Yes sir! You guy's here are all so amazing! I have currently obtained some very meaty information on this unit,, And I will be updating this thread as soon as possible! Thank you guy's so much for the links and great information that you've all provided me, I will go threw this stuff and make use of it! Hopefully you guy's will be hearing back from me soon enough...

Testing these things as you all know can be very time consuming, between work and daily life. Please bear with me...
__________________
I cant wait till I get my own stuff completed so I can help someone else! lol
Hydrocarz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2021, 6:46 am   #20
Radio Wrangler
Moderator
 
Radio Wrangler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 17,857
Default Re: Thandar TG2001

In a case like this, the most precious thing you can have is certainty, the most damaging thing is confusion. If any of the replacement parts you buy are fake or faulty, then they soe confusion and can get you lost and keep you lost.

I restrict myself to buying parts only from main distributors who carefully manage their supply lines. Mouser, Digikey, Farnell/Newark, and RS.

You also seem to be trying to fix multiple dead function generators at once, and this can also create confusion as each may have different faults and it becomes difficult to keep them separate in your mind.

Something seems to be taking a lot of current. 8 regulator chips is an awful lot, however this is an opportunity. These things should not only act as voltage regulators, they are also implement current limits. They also act to limit their own temperature by backing off their current limit value.

To get one of these parts hot, you either have to provide it with too little heatsinking for the current it has to handle, or you have to try to take too much current from it. As these generators once worked, the heatsinking should be adequate, so long as replacement parts have been fitted with the right insulation washers and thermal compound. All of these devices have live tabs. They are either connected to the outputs or to the inputs. none of them should be grounded directly to grounded metalwork.

Eight regulators means you can look at the output voltages and see which ones are making their correct output voltage. This way you can spot a failed regulator shorting its input to its output and giving far too much output voltage. You can also spot a regulator feeding something taking far too much current and going into either current limiting or into thermal limiting.

This is where having so many regulators is a help. It breaks the unit up into smaller sections! So a bit of power supply voltage analysis will steer you to a smaller area.

For something taking a lot of current, there are several possibilities:

A shorted decoupling capacitor..... Tantalum electrolytics tend to fail short circuited. Ceramic capacitors can fail shorted as well. These could create heavy power rail currents anywhere in the instrument

The output amplifier stage is one of the highest power areas of the unit. It's very like an audio power amplifier, but with some differences because it has to work over a somewhat greater bansdwidth. These stages are the very devil to fix. One bad semiconductor can destroy other ones in the amplifier. Someone comes along and discovers Qxxx has failed, so they replace it. But Qyyy was also dead. Qyyy kills the new Qxxx. The repairer moves on, trusting Qxxx because it's new and finds Qyyy is dead, so they replace that next. But the dead Qxxx immediately kills the new Qyyy when power is next applied. This is the equivalent of the old joke of handing someone a card with "Please turn over" written on both sides! However in these amplifiers it isn't just two transistors in a mutually assured destruction pact, it's several, so the confusion generated is much greater.

The only way to deal with these circuits is to power them down, test every single semiconductor (and measure all the resistors if you're a suspicious devil like me) replace all the faulty ones, and only when you've done the lot dare you risk applying power to try it out.


Let's talk about protection. That output amplifier doesn't have any. If anything injects voltages back into it, it can be damaged, and the above horror scenario started.

Also, those three-terminal linear regulator chips in the power supply have aknown vulnerability. If something shorts or pulls down their input voltage quickly, the capacitors on their outputs can drive current BACKWARDS through the reg chip. This is known to destroy them. Wily designers know of this and fit diodes across input to output, reverse biased in normal operation, their job is to divert backwards current transients and limit the amount of collateral damage if there is a fault somewhere else. This instrument has none of these protection diodes. So either the designer wasn't aware of the risks, or his boss forced him to save every last penny.

The thing is also full of 4000 series CMOS logic parts. This is very very susceptible ot damage from electrostatic discharge, so you have to take precautions. It can go short circuit if damaged and take high current from power supplies.

The last bit on protection.... If you are using an instrument to drive something, think about what happens if that something is faulty or wrong. Can it feed power into the output of the instrument? This could wind up expensive! Even expensive function generators from Wavetek, HP or Tektronix can be killed this way. You need to think of some circuitry to protect your instrument to go between the instrument and your circuit. Getting this wrong can get very expensive very quickly.

David
__________________
Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done
Radio Wrangler is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools



All times are GMT. The time now is 1:45 pm.


All information and advice on this forum is subject to the WARNING AND DISCLAIMER located at https://www.vintage-radio.net/rules.html.
Failure to heed this warning may result in death or serious injury to yourself and/or others.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright ©2002 - 2021, Paul Stenning.