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emeritus · 10th Dec 2017, 3:07 am

When my late mother became unable to bend down to skirting board level I bought a short 2- or 4-way switched extension lead for each socket and screwed them to the wall at a suitable height and convenient positions, securing the flex with cable clips. She was in a council house so it would have been a lot of hassle to get the sockets repositioned, even if they would have been prepared to do it, and the cost was minimal compared with paying a certified electrician to do a permanent job.

I suppose the light switch problem could be solved by fitting ceiling-mounted pull switches with suitably long cords? The original flush light switches in our late 1930's house were positioned at eye height, and I lowered them to just below shoulder height when I rewired (it was legal to do so then!). For the tiled toilet this was not practical, meaning that when our son started walking, he couldn't reach the switch when he got up in the night. To avoid having to disrupt the tiling, I replaced the wall switch with a 2-way switch and fitted a two-way switched ceiling pull switch, and connected them for two-way switching, so we could continue to use the wall switch and he could use the pull switch.

10th Dec 2017, 3:07 am	#25
emeritus Dekatron Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Brentwood, Essex, UK. Posts: 5,339	Re: Sockets on a roll When my late mother became unable to bend down to skirting board level I bought a short 2- or 4-way switched extension lead for each socket and screwed them to the wall at a suitable height and convenient positions, securing the flex with cable clips. She was in a council house so it would have been a lot of hassle to get the sockets repositioned, even if they would have been prepared to do it, and the cost was minimal compared with paying a certified electrician to do a permanent job. I suppose the light switch problem could be solved by fitting ceiling-mounted pull switches with suitably long cords? The original flush light switches in our late 1930's house were positioned at eye height, and I lowered them to just below shoulder height when I rewired (it was legal to do so then!). For the tiled toilet this was not practical, meaning that when our son started walking, he couldn't reach the switch when he got up in the night. To avoid having to disrupt the tiling, I replaced the wall switch with a 2-way switch and fitted a two-way switched ceiling pull switch, and connected them for two-way switching, so we could continue to use the wall switch and he could use the pull switch.