[Argus25]

Julie,

I think most of the types of solution used for electrolytic de-rusting are basic, not acidic. Probably the notion that acidic solutions were useful for removing rust came about when somebody suggested that the phosphoric acid in CocaCola was good for removing rust. Though in the absence of a power supply there might be something to it. I haven't got the silicon chip article at hand, but the common way uses a battery charger and a weak alkaline solution, like washing soda or dilute sodium hydroxide or baking soda which I think is popular.

In any case some items cannot be treated this way, for example rusted transformer laminations and housings, valve shields that are a composite of aluminium and steel and other parts that cannot be dunked into a solution.

For these types of parts I have found the better method is to clean off all the surface rust with 600 to 2000 grade paper. Then treat the surface with an organic rust converter to deactivate the rust in the pitted metal. The popular organic rust converter in AU is a product called Fertan. It converts the rust to an organic compound which turns it blue in color. Once it is treated it is ok to paint the surface without the worry that the rust will break through the surface, as it always will, if not treated.

The important thing with restorations is to make sure all of the rust from every component/part is either removed or deactivated. Because it is true that "rust never sleeps" and progressively destroys steel. But if it is successfully removed and/or deactivated it solves the problem. Of course it can be quite a challenge when presented with a grossly rusted chassis. Even if the gross rust is removed (without major disassembly) then Fertan can be painted onto the remaining rust with a small brush, it makes a world of difference in preserving the set. Though in many cases you will see silver paint applied over rusted parts and no rust converter applied, with the "out of sight out of mind" approach to the problem.