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Old 14th Feb 2018, 10:11 am   #3
crackle
Rest in Peace
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Basildon, Essex, UK.
Posts: 4,100
Default Re: KB 381 5 valve AC/DC superhet

I wonder what "M" stands for on the capacitor, could it just be mica or could it mean these are spacial for mains.

I have replaced all the rotten rubber covered wires that were crumbling and shedding their insulation. I also removed the tuning cap in order to get at the connections for the rubber wires which went to the bang sections.
Whilst out I made some new foam washers for the mountings as the old ones had also crumbled and broken up.
I used adhesive backed foam for the new washers and stuck them to the metal washer. I then glued the metal washers to the feet of the tuning cap body. This should make refitting much easier as it is almost impossible to get fingers in to refit the washers.
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The foam washers look a bit untidy because it gives as it is cut but they wont be seen.

I am puzzled by a strange looking item which is not shown on the circuit or the layout drawings. It is a paxolin former, similar to what I have seen used for small coils or wire wound resistors. It connects between terminals D on L1 and B on L2, so in other words between the aerial and G4 of V1. I cant think why KB would go to the bother of fitting this if it was not to be used for anything.
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I have made repairs to the speaker speech coil which was coming adrift from the cone and causing rubbing when the cone moved in ans out. To get at this I had to remove the spider, which came away fairly easily. I then put short shims in between the speech coil and the magnet centre pole to ensure the coil was positioned and aligned accurately, then used PVA to glue down each of the little tabs. A C cell battery was just the right size to sit on the coil tabs whilst the glue dried. Once dry I pulled the short shims out and then used PVA to again glue the spider back in position. Once the spider was glued I inserted longer shims which would protrude through the spider whilst I tightened up the centre nut. When done the cone moved in and out silently.

The radio chassis has had repairs done in the past, the volume on/off has been replaced and various resistors have been replaced with the banded ceramic Erie types.

Also C6 appears to be missing, it looks like it may never have been fitted, it was only rated at 9pF and was just a pair of twisted enamelled wires.

I Have another of these sets I have had for some while and not done anything with, I am going to check under the chassis to see if things are the same.

Next to do are the metal can multi capacitors, waxies, and the card covered electrolytic block.

Mike
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