[Techman]

I personally wouldn't be replacing any capacitors until I had some sort of power through it to confirm that the major components are actually working.

However, you must remove or clip one end of both C51 and C52 before doing anything else. These can be left out for the time being but if you replace them they'll need to be special 'X' types.

You should only ever replace capacitors before an initial power up if you're completely confident that you're NOT going to make ANY mistakes. If you do a cap change and then find it doesn't work, we'll have a 20 page thread trying to diagnose a fault that you probably caused yourself.

If you really want to replace a couple of capacitors before you start then you could do C45/C46. You'll have to go to nearest preferred value, probably 0.22 and 400 or 600 volt working.

I would advise you to power it up via a lamp limiter if you're worried - you could use an old table lamp in series with the live input with something like a 100 watt bulb in it, and then increase the bulb wattage to 150 then 200. If you haven't got those bulb wattages then use two table lamps in parallel with a 100 watt in one and a 60 watt then 100 watt in the other. However, It might be best if you were to first remove the rectifier valve and give it full mains and see if all the other valve heaters light up as they should. Removing the rectifier will remove any HT voltage from the circuits and only the heaters will be powered. Looking down from the top of the valves, look VERY closely at the heaters of the PX4 valves and make sure that ALL the heater runs are glowing. These valves will still work with some of the heater out, but if it's just one valve then you may get some hum - not to be confused with bad smoothing. The heaters should have a dull glow showing on all the runs - you'll see what I mean when you look.

So to sum up - remove mains filter capacitors, remove rectifier, power up full mains and check heaters. Switch off, replace rectifier and connect a speaker and power up via a 100 watt lamp in series with mains input, with a DVM set to highest DC voltage range (600 volts?) clipped between first smoother after the rectifier and chassis to monitor the HT. Leave to warm up until you see some HT. Switch off and increase bulb wattage to let HT rise a little more and hopefully hear some low hum from speaker - or better, music, if you've connected an audio source. DON'T run for any length of time when doing this. Switch off and check for any slight warming of smoothing cans etc. Note HT voltage each time. Once you know it's capable of working you can start replacing components that need to be replaced. Note: running this up with the lamps will help re-form the smoothing electrolytics - no need to replace these unless they prove to be bad.

When you come to replace capacitors, those you list for replacement are correct, but I would also advise replacing the small decoupling electrolytic C36, as this is likely to be unreliable.