Agreed.
The way I worked through a new socket was to get the old one one, the new one in and then do some continuity checking using the schematics so I can make sure that each pin was connected on to the 'next' IC as appropriate, using my meter.
I did this before I inserted a new chip/turned on to make sure that at least the socket was sound electronically.
I got quite good at it after a while...
Colin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiriusHardware
BF, I've now had the opportunity to watch your video linked to in post #175 properly from beginning to end.
I think your soldering skills are a lot better than you modestly made out, or you are just intuitively good at it because many people would have ended up chewing, burning or blistering the PCB if they tried to use your approach, but you did it all very carefully and patiently and it all worked very nicely.
The conventional sockets which you worried might not be the right type are perfectly OK, some people do prefer the turned-pin / machine pin type which are superior in most respects but they are very difficult to remove from double sided PCBs without damaging the board. I generally feel that on double sided PCBs, conventional sockets are better because you can replace them quite easily, more than once if necessary.
I notice you were concerned that quite a few of the pads of UE7 seemed to be connected together, if you were to look at UE7 on the circuit diagram you would see that quite a few of the pins of UE7 are indeed connected together in pairs, so you may find it useful to get a little bit more into reading and understanding circuit diagrams.
I'm enjoying watching you work through these problems and it will be interesting to see how the tape deck goes, hopefully any problems there will be more physical / mechanical than electronic.
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