[stevehertz]

Refinishing a cabinet is a big subject and not wishing to boast (suppose I am in a way though!) I have refinished many, many cabinets to a high standard. I'd need to write pages to get down all my thoughts. Here's some at random:

Re the decal, I doubt if the finest refinisher in the world could retain it in a seamless 'you wouldn't know it had been refinished' manner. You'd need to cut and scrape all around it - difficult in itself - and then re-lacquer to bring up the height alongside it and fill in/disguise any cut marks.

Original finishes were cellulose lacquer. Still available but not the easiest to apply.

Lately I've been using Wilko quick dry varnish. It goes on lovely like watered down cream (not sticky and 'pully' like polyurethanes), and self levels nicely. Apply it in thin to medium coats; not too thin and certainly not too thick. It dries very quickly, you can easily apply three or more coats in a day. It sands easily and is relatively non clogging of your sandpaper/sanding blocks.

In terms of colours, your set would have looked different when new; 'brighter' for one as old cellulose tends to yellow with age.

Do your best to remove old lacquer and sand the cabinet to a very high standard. Your new lacquer will only be as good as the ground work you have done.

I use plastic wood of different colours, and also Kwikwood (for big holes etc) to repair damaged corners and the like. I leave small surface dents alone. I use a variety of pukka artists' (expensive!) felt tipped pens in a variety of brown colours to disguise the repaired areas before lacquering.

In terms of applying colours, you have two choices. Wood stain (not varnish or lacquer), or lacquer/varnish that includes stain (it's coloured). The former can be oil or water based. When using the latter it can be difficult to get an even colour as application depths will inevitably vary with your brushing out strokes; it can end up looking patchy. I prefer to apply a pure stain to relevant areas first, then use clear lacquer afterwards. If after that you find that you still need stronger colour, then use coloured lacquer. Ignore the name of the wood colour on the tin, just aim for the colour you want.

Use a high quality, natural bristle brush that allows you to brush out without dragging the lacquer to become different depths in different areas, ie just smooth it out. Don't skimp on a brush. I use 1" or 1.5" for large areas and 1/2' for smaller ones.

I apply about four coats but it depends on how it has 'gone on', the surface of the wood etc. In terms of the last coat, I generally flat off using very fine, pre-used sandpaper, then cut/buff back up to the level of shine that you want. Glass-like finishes look unnatural to me on a vintage radio. I don't even like them on vintage hifi cabinets that I restore.

You can also buy spray cans of lacquer that work very well, but obviously works out expensive. I use a spray can holder/trigger that converts the can into a 'spray gun' for easier, more controlled use.