Great Choice ! and I've always had a soft spot for it, as our family owned not one, bit two of these - one of which I 'dismantled' aged around 9 or 10 ( oops )
I always called this the set with 2 frequency changers due to the unusual use of the 2nd ECH21 as the IF amp and audio gain stage.
You'll find it sounds really good, due to Philips usual careful use of 'contouring' the audio output stage to the speaker and cabinet.
I hope that the mains transformer is OK. May be worth running this up gently with no valves in to see if the scale lamps come on. As mentioned above some of the Philips wiring is in rubber coated stuff and is either fine, or very crumbly. If the latter, it will of course need replacing.
I replaced only the 245 V wiring to the voltage selector and removed the rest, otherwise it can take forever. That said, a lot of it is in plastic coated wire, so clearly they were in a changeover period when these sets were made.
As to the black 'pitch' capacitors - I often find they are OK. Not so the Dubilier or TCC 'waxies' which are probably leaky.
Only change one at a time of you do. The vertical stacking of the tagboards under the chassis can encourage wiring errors and makes some very difficult to get to.
Replace those 2 single wet electrolytics that are screw mounted to the chassis whatever happens. They will be beyond salvage. The website 'askjanfirst (
www.die-wuestens.de/eindex.htm ) sells single and double replacements of the same mounting type in a slightly smaller can. All that needs to be done is a slight enlargement of the mounting holes. Ensure that C2 ( philips schem. )is isolated from the chassis as before ( reuse the original washer and tag )
The output transformer on these sets is often found to be a 'Radiospares' replacement. If it's cooked ( open primary ) they can be a bit of a pain to source - the primary is part of the HT smoothing circuit. Worst case, something from another set or a 'generic' new component will usually suffice.
For a safer mains connection, I usually replace the flex with a 3A 3 core one. If you strip the insulation back a few extra inches and then shorten the L/N conductors before wiring into the rear chassis plug, its possible to get the plug's cable grip around the outside of the cable for safety and then apply heat shrink or a hellerman sleeve to the end whilst doubling back the earth conductor. This can then be passed though the back cover and soldered to a tag, which can then be bolted to the chassis ( add a star washer first also ). This gives the ability to remove the back a short distance ( thus removing the power ) for future service whilst maintaining the earth connection.
These are really attractive sets in my view - Hopefully your dial has most of its print left ?
In a darkened room the edge lit glass dial looks really classy
GOOD LUCK
A