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Old 10th Aug 2014, 10:31 am   #13
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK.
Posts: 1,518
Default Re: Another woodworm question!

The irony is that while timber in 'dry', warm domestic rooms is down to 9-12% MC, the drier the timber the less readily it absorbs preservatives as the dried-out outer cell walls (if not lacquered!) no longer allow transfer of preservative by the vehicle (solvent or waterborne) to readily permeate through osmosis or diffusion into the more moist inner cells.... where the larvae are probably still active.

Don't forget that seasoned timber is like a cake - baked hard and dry on the ouside but still moist in the middle. If the larvae are already present, they will emerge in due course without warning, but you are not likely to have further infestion if kept dry and well dusted, especially in crevices.

The best time to treat timber is before its moisture content drops too low (around 18-23% MC). As Michael will attest, seasoning needs a dry, well aired room/store. If you do get new timber in, make sure the sap wood has been removed as that supports life, especially pin-hole borers or wood wasps in certain specie.

As to freezing, the consensus is still out. -20C (-5F) is the recommended level, probably at the extreme of a domestic freezer. The timber/furniture should be in an air tight bag to minimise ice crysals being later absorbed which may/maynot cause warping/breakdown of glues. It is a bit hit and miss as is over heating (50C/122F) which can similarly cause structural problems - though the larvae might get a sun-tan! Don't forget the Tundra is in a deep freeze much of the year... but still bursts into verdant life in the spring (and the Sahara too), and that timber has wonderful insulation properties!! Ain't nature wonderful?!


Last edited by brenellic2000; 10th Aug 2014 at 10:37 am.
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