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Old 23rd May 2020, 10:32 am   #218
Timbucus
Octode
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Barry, Vale of Glamorgan, Wales, UK.
Posts: 1,363
Default Re: Recreating the Bywood Scrumpi

Quote:
Originally Posted by philoupat83 View Post
hello
good recovery tim
nothing urgent. I suprimé the imprint of the leds the discussion of r4r5 remains philosophical be at the most ready of the original? you must first check if there is no error
on the photos do not take into account the position of the texts eagle n is not flexible
I think the circuit for the 555 is correct so there is no need to change it - as you say only when we see a real board will we know the R4/R5 situation... this will then be correct or the forgers idiosyncrasy...

Your circuit diagram you posted in #192 is too low a resolution to read so I cannot work out why you have the +5v on the bottom of STEP? I think it should only go to the top of R11.

On my board and circuit I have R11 other end going to the middle PIN not the bottom one of RESET - mainly because I could only get ON-OFF-(ON) switches - this could be simulated by joining the two pads so no need to change the layout really.

Also on my vero board I had to make a physical bit of wire through the hole in the switches to make a good Physical strength - maybe the pads need to be a bit bigger to allow this or the switches will quickly break with just solder?

I am also worried that the PADS for Link wires are too small for the larger patch wiring that will be used on the Ground connections?

I am still checking again but, the other switches, CPU, Memory and LED buffer sections seem correct .

You have chosen a different set of pins to my two circuits on vero and schematic/layout on IC11 - I have checked and yours is also correct and will work, so I will update my circuit in the booklet to use those pin numbers.
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