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Old 24th Aug 2019, 7:36 pm   #8
cathoderay57
Nonode
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Bristol, UK.
Posts: 2,388
Default Re: Philips 170A restoration

Hi Chris, I think the term "voltage regulator" brings to mind semiconductor electronic devices but I know what you mean - the mains voltage selector immediately behind the transformer. Removing it is fine so long as you are certain you've got the mains IEC connector wired to the appropriate windings for your local mains voltage (via the on-off switch). The 245v winding is the safest to begin with and then check the valve heater voltage is at or close to 6.3v. If low then try the 220v tap. If running the set out of the case then do watch where you're putting your fingers because the exposed contacts on the mains switch are conveniently placed to give you a nasty shock or kill you. Nearly all red-coated EF39s suffer from flaked metallizing or bad connections to the earth wire at the base rim, made worse every time you wiggle the valve to remove it. The RF amplifier won't care about this but the IF valve will likely go into oscillation if the shielding screen is compromised. Winding wire around is an old trick that usually works providing there is enough metallized paint left on the valve. If it works OK then leave it. As far as the output valve is concerned I guess it depends how much you want to spend. There certainly do seem to be very few EBL31s around at the moment. It might be worth putting a wants request here - you never know. As your 170A isn't in mint original condition there is no harm in changing the output valve holder if you want to. The EBL1 will of course work fine. You might want to give Mike Lewis a ring on 01582 580367. He might be able to help you with the voltage selector and the EBL31. Cheers, Jerry P.S. I thought you said the radio was working so not sure why you want to replace the EBL31?

Last edited by cathoderay57; 24th Aug 2019 at 7:53 pm.
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