Quote:
Originally Posted by G6Tanuki
There's an interesting review of the performance of a range of different wood-glues (including Gorilla glue) here: http://shropshire-woodsmiths.co.uk/woodglue-test/
Done properly with proper glues, the joint can be stronger than the materials it joins. |
Excellent and comprehensive review with a lot of objectivity - thanks for posting that.
To all intents and purposes, for most ordinary use, PVA seems to be as good as anything for an all-round adhesive. Interesting to note that despite its name implying that it's made from casein (derived milk solids), 'Cascamite' is not a casein based adhesive as I'd always believed - it's urea formaldehyde. The chief merit of Gorilla glue seems to be that being a polyurethane glue, it's happy with timber with a high moisture content - indeed it relies on the presence of moisture to cure.
For normal woodworking I've found Titebond Original to have a shorter open time than PVA and doesn't leave a visible glue line, so it's popular for segmented work in woodturning. You can just hold two segments together by hand for a minute or so and they 'grab', enabling a ring of segments to be quickly glued together before clamping. That's what I used to join the segments together for the turned lidded box below, (a first attempt some years ago, so won't win any prizes).
I do little veneering, and generally still use hide glue for that, which is a bit of a faff, (though you can get cold hide glue). I've not tried the alternative which is to coat the veneer and the surface to which it's being applied, with PVA, then when dry to the touch, to iron on the veneer, which apparently melts the PVA for both surfaces to bond. Obviously much cleaner and no jacketed gluepot called for.
I do have a sad looking Murphy A124 which I intend to re-veneer (sometime whenever), for which I have new veneers for both the front and the end panels. It will be evident that the design - as with many wooden cabinet designs - calls for the veneer to be bent to a tight radius against the grain, with predictable results at the top of the cabinet. It's expecting rather too much to expect the glue to hold the veneer in tension. I think that to stand a good chance of the veneer adhering properly, it will need to be steamed and clamped into shaped in a caul to relieve the stress in the grain before applying the veneer to the cabinet.
So, as I say, 'sometime whenever'! I've got the hide glue, the pot and veneer hammers - I just need to will to bring the set to the top of the 'to do' list.
It will get done - I rather like the set.