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Old 9th Dec 2019, 6:43 pm   #52
WaveyDipole
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Leicester, UK
Posts: 2,535
Default Re: Damaged vintage variac

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldie99 View Post
Heat might be an option as well - not sure what the materials are here, but running it through the kitchen oven (after the roast's out !) might help.
I am beginning to wonder whether that might be a good idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazz4CQJ View Post
I think it might well be the case that phenolic materials could swell or even be embrittled by agents like WD40 or Plusgas.
B
I fear this might have been proved right.... I can't move the thing at all now! Not sure whether this is down to the WD40 or being stored in the shed for a couple of days. I would add that the shed is very dry, but obviously it is damp outside. I placed it next to the heater in the shed for a while but that didn't help so I will keep it indoors for a couple of days to see whether that loosens it up a bit again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turretslug View Post
Another problem I've seen in association with damp and variacs is that the winding doughnut often sits on a ring of insulating fibre material against the base frame (seems like a sort of dense compressed card, though it may even be an asbestos-type gasket material with bigger or older ones). This can absorb moisture if it's kept in damp conditions and eventually the enamelling fails in places and results in problems that can result in write-off, such as shorted turns and fusing, or nuisance such as leakage to earth or serious corrosion. They really are devices that ought to be kept in dry conditions.
Thank you for the heads up on this. I have now removed them from the shed and brought them inside into the warm and dry!

I dug the puller out but unfortunately it will be of no use for now. Having had another look today, I realised that the top end of the isolator is wider than the bottom end by about 5mm. It seems that the tube has been moulded with a lip (and narrower inner diameter) at the top end which would make it impossible to remove the top plate and rotor via that end of the isolator tube. Even if it were possible, there is only the tiniest of gaps below the collar and some insulating material, the presence of which also makes applying any leverage impractical as the material would almost certainly get damaged.

It would therefore seem that the only way the parts can be removed is along the full length of the tube via the bottom end.
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Last edited by WaveyDipole; 9th Dec 2019 at 6:51 pm.
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