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Old 6th Oct 2018, 9:26 pm   #28
Mrgroovy
Retired Dormant Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 61
Default Re: Need help identifying old capacitor from 1930s radio

Quote:
Originally Posted by ms660 View Post
I don't know a whole lot about this receiver, I'm just making a few assumptions as the photo's and details unfold.

You can replace the 1uF, 2uF and 4 uF in the capacitor block with electrolytics if you wanted too, the 0.1uF should be replaced with a modern polyester or polypropylene type, just keep in mind that electrolytics are polarity sensitive, really important to be aware of that in HT circuits otherwise things can go splat in a violent way.

I've no idea what the HT voltage is in this receiver, but normally 450 volt electrolytics will do for most receivers, if in doubt use polyester or propylene types as these are available in voltages greater 450 volts.

So far as the working voltage of capacitors is concerned you have to realize what voltage the HT can increase to under a no load condition (sometimes caused by a fault) That voltage can equal the peak of the AC voltage being supplied to the rectifier eg: Peak voltage = AC (RMS) multiplied by 1.414, for instance 300 volts AC into the rectifier would result in an unloaded voltage at the reservoir capacitor of 424 volts DC.

When replacing capacitors the old ones must be disconnected from the circuit

Lawrence.
Thanks for info! I know that electrolytics are polarized and if I haven't got it all wrong the negative side always needs to go to ground, right? I may have missed something obvious, but I don't see how I should go about connecting any of the caps in the block to an electrolytic since neither the 1,2,4 or 2uF are connected to ground. The only cap in the block that is connected to ground as of now is the top right connector of the 0.1uF cap as seen in the schematic I made.
If I connect say all the wirings that goes to one of the two solder lugs on the 1uF capacitor in the block to the anode of a 1uF electrolytic and then connect its cathode to ground, then where does the wirings that goes to the remaining solder lug go? Do I connect them to the same anode or do I use two electrolytics for each one? Sorry if this is a stupid question! It may all well be easier than I think it is; or even more difficult for that matter. I have the greatest respect for these things so don't worry I won't try anything stupid until I know what to expect.
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