Thread: Avo 8 movement
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Old 28th Nov 2017, 4:54 pm   #9
SeanMcK
Retired Dormant Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Londonderry, Northern Ireland, UK.
Posts: 58
Default Re: Avo 8 movement

With regard to the Mk5, can I ask a possibly daft question, why not disconnect the movement leads from the rotary switch circuit bd ( 2 solder joints) and measure the resistance between the lead ends?
The only problem I have encountered with this is that you need to be careful about the current that the measuring meter puts out.
Once the movement assembly is removed from the meter it is, from memory, quite easy to isolate just the movement coil assembly (hair springs and actual coil etc.) and check continuity through it.
With regard to the cutout, it might be worth checking to see if the cut out's moving contact carrier is broken, I have one where this was in 2 or 3 pieces but remained in situ and, at first glance, seemed to operate correctly but did not create continuity.
I was able to glue it back together with Araldite but clamping the pieces together in the correct positions whilst the glue set was extremely awkward.
In the process I made what I came to think was a mistake and glued the actual contact piece in situ. This was partially due to the difficulty of clamping the pieces in place and the contact piece appearing to be an convenient 'splint'. The gluing worked and the reassembled cut out tripped and latched etc. but there was no continuity though it, I think I ended up taking a needle file to the contact points on the contact piece. I now suspect the contact piece is meant to have some degree of freedom of movement i.e. some float.
Re the Mk6, if the coil assembly is carried in a plastic (polythene?) 'frame' visually check that frame for cracks/breaks. They can crack or break near the screws, this seems to allow the frame and coil to shift slightly with respect to the cylindrical core and the coil may catch on something.
The photos shows my first attempt at a repair, the break was in the 'leg' with the copper wire strap. The 'strap' cinches the break together but I think the frame's position need some fine tuning.
The piece mark "bridge" is removable and the strap is run underneath it however it might be better to run the strap over the top of the bridge but I need to investigate that.
I would love to know how these things were aligned during manufacture!
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