Honey Extractor
 

Bit of a long shot here...... help needed with a (non) sticky problem :)

Does anyone know of a supplier for a 12mm shaft diameter centrifugal clutch vee belt pulley?

There's any number of 19mm / 3/4" and 25mm / 1" to be found online but seem to be b****r all in any other size.

It's for the spinner drive motor of an old (1977) centrifugal honey extractor. The linings have fallen off the shoes in the original clutch.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Possibly ask here: http://www.acbelting.co.uk/default.asp
Peter

Re: Honey Extractor
 

I might be thinking about getting hold of some friction lining material of about the right radius (moped brake drums? Qualcast mower centrifugal clutch?), and riveting it on with copper rivets. I don't think epoxy will do (not good at high temp) and when I asked my mate who used to be at Ferodo what they use to bond linings, he would only say 'Prit Stick' :)

If anyone knows of a glue for bonding linings (on antique honey extractors, just to keep us firmly on-topic and away from the mods' ire) I would be very interested to know.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

The linings are still there, just detached.

The bonding glue is some sort of hot cure phenolic resin stuff that has to have the linings firmly compressed onto the shoes during curing to prevent evolved gases causing voids in the joint. The shoes need to be degreased then shot blasted to provide a suitable keyed surface.

Riveting isn't an option, the shoes are about 1" radius and half an inch thick.

Not easily DiY.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

I may be getting my nomenclature mixed up - do you mean the thing the lining was bonded to, is 1/2" thick? Rivets come in all sorts of lengths (I don't mean pop rivets, but I guess you know that), but if the backing is that thick maybe you can even tap it and screw the things on. I guess it's not like the similar but off-topic safety-critical thing we're definitely not talking about (8-)) where making it up as you go along like this might be regarded as somewhat...cavalier.

One of those really aggressive wire-rope mops in an angle grinder will give you a nice keyed, clean surface if you can find a glue that will take a bit of heat.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

While epoxy wouldn't be any good for brake linings, I wouldn't have thought this clutch would get too hot, so it should do here.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

You're right about no safety issues, the clutch is purely functional.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Have you tried a brake relining shop?

Re: Honey Extractor
 

I use contact cement!! Dont laugh!! I have repaired many mini bike centrifical clutches using contact. My ride on lawn mower has a 17 HP engine and the forward and reverse clutches are made from ordinary cork tiles, glued to the flywheels with ordinary solvent based ( MEK or Methyl Ethyl Ketone) contact and I use the mower regularly, and it climbs hills of about 15%. I have never lost the clutch.

Just my take on it

Joe

My honey extractor is hand cranked :-D

Re: Honey Extractor
 

sorry mods
You must clean off all the old glue with abrasive before reglueing. Even rough up the surface with 40 or 50 grit emery cloth first.
j.b.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Again trying not to go off-topic, such a thing is hard to find locally, these days. I know of one or two national mail-order exchange type outfits which we'd better not discuss here, but who I could suggest by PM if anyone needs to know.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

www.traffordbrake.co.uk/products.html

Never used them but they bond brake linings.
There was a firm in Denton who rebuilt brakes, clutches and CV joints but I'm blowed if I can remember the name and I used them for years.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Drill through, countersink to a third of the lining's thickness then use a soft rivet. It's not like you're engaging to pull a 10 ton trailer:)

Regards, poppydog.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Sorry Chris just looked again and saw riveting is not a option:-[

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Hi Herald, some photos would be interesting to see.
Regards - Mike

Re: Honey Extractor
 

If the linings have just come adrift from the pulley but are still serviceable, I think that Plastic Padding 'Super Steel' two-part epoxy would be very suitable to re-attach the linings. It sets rock hard - I've used it extensively for such things as filling holes in die-cast alloy boxes, Bakelite cabinet repairs, sealing the ends of re-stuffed paper caps and smoothing cap cans and re-fixing valve bases and top caps. Despite it being 'metal filled' it's not electrically conductive. (I've tested it at 1,000V DC). More importantly, for re-fixing the brake linings, it withstands up to 315°C (600°F).

This is from the maker's website:

PLASTIC PADDING SUPER STEEL EPOXY-WELD:

SUPER STEEL is a metal-filled two-component adhesive which sets like steel. Seals, bonds, fixes and replaces.

SUPER STEEL is a dark-grey coloured, metal-filled, two-component adhesive which sets like steel and is suitable for metal, wood, china, stone, glass and leather. Seals, bonds, fixes and replaces and therefore ideal for general emergency repairs around the home, garden, farm, car and boat. It hardens in 5 min and cures in 10 min. Max. temp 315°C (<100 continuous). Contains 54g/l solvent. Not for soft plastic and Polypropylene.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...dTab=technical

You can get it from larger branches of Halfords for £7.00, or from online e-bay shops typically for £5.98 post free.

Hope that might help.

Incidentally, spin dryers use a centrifugal brake to stop the spin within seconds of the lid being opened.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

My late mother's 1960's spin dryer (I forget the make) did not have a centrifugal brake, but had a spring-biassed electromagnet controlled by the lid-operated power switch that operated the brake as soon as the lid was opened. In the 1970's the electromagnet went open circuit and I rewound it (using the take-up spool arm of my 8mm cine projector).

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Have you tried the manufacturer or looked for an agent whom can supply spare parts.
It sounds like the parts may be the same as the ones used on cylinder mowers.
Have a look on the web as most suppliers have photos of what they sell.

Re: Honey Extractor
 

I hope I'm not reading your request wrong, I suggest you contact a local model engineering club and one of their member would make and fit an adapter bush 12mm to 19mm or 25mm for you, then you can buy a new unit altogether. But I think as others have said, re bond on the existing material. The wife has a Mobylette moped many years ago and I re-bonded on loose centrifugal clutches material, several time before it expired altogether, worth a try. Alternatively, look in "Old Bike Mart" magazine and there are many advertisers who reline brakes and clutches, I'm sure they would fix it for you. Ted

Re: Honey Extractor
 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I was ready to "have a go", but the owner preferred the relining service route suggested by the mechanic who's the "go to" hereabouts for anything mechanical that needs to be competently sorted. (OT aside- he's currently doing a cambelt replacement in the 200Tdi in my 1970 series 2A).

So the shoes were dropped off at a local motor and agricultural factor to go off to somewhere in Cardiff that relines anything.

Update as and when....