RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Hi guy's,

Acquired this set as I liked the look of it.

It's a RAP Transatlantic, not too much info on this, no Trader sheets, but I think a member posted a self made schematic :thumbsup:

It has been smothered in dark varnishy sludge, put on with a brush, didn't even take the knobs off. Hoping to get this back to original. Full of spiders and a bit of woodworm :(

One of the valve top caps came off leaving a wee wire sticking out of the glass, was thinking I can solder the cap back on. Would this be OK or better with a replacement? I have stabilized another valve with epoxy the glass was loose from the base.

The speaker is wrapped in a cloth bag, which seems a nice touch.

Another valve I've had to soak with WD40 as it's seized in the holder.

Will post update pics as I restore.

Thanks for looking.

Cheers
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Hi Lee, yes you should be OK to resolder the wire tip back to the top cap. Useful to add a blob of araldite under the top cap rim first. Jerry

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Thanks Jerry, will try that, have some gorilla 2 part adhesive I can try :thumbsup:

Cheers
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Hi Lee, do the soldering quickly to prevent damage to the glass.
Do not use too "strong" a glue on glass as it may cause it to crack, not sure what the gorilla is like but may be a bit strong, Araldite or Bostik should be OK

Ed

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Yes be careful with the glue you use. Better to use one of the 'Impact' adhesives like Evo-Stik or Bostik since they don't set rock-hard and have 'give' in them which is better for expansion when the glass gets hot.

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Thanks Ed, good advice there, will try araldite, I have some :thumbsup:

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Cheers Sideband, I have a few adhesives I can try, hopefully will choose the right one.

Have spent all day restoring the case and chassis, just need to get my head around the waxies now, no trader sheet. Some of them are hard to reach :(

Thanks
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Personally I wouldn't use an epoxy adhesive for this. I'd 'stick' to Bostick, Evo-stik, UHU etc general purpose types.

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Thanks Graham, opinion seems to point towards non epoxy type glues, cheers.

Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

A few progress pics.

All gunk has been removed from the case using a water based paint stripper and IPA.

Speaker fabric removed and washed, must have been in a smokers home, water turned yellow and I could smell the nicotine.

Worm holes filled, case wiped down with white spirit, stain applied to blend everything. Danish oil applied - 3 coats.

Currently working on the chassis.

Thanks for looking.

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Have been working on this set for a few day's now, found a couple of shorts in those cables that are sheathed with metal fabric, one going to the top of a valve and another on the underside of the chassis. Managed to fix :thumbsup:

All waxies and electolytics replaced.

One question. The BIG can is a joint 8uF and 16uF cap, now on the schematic it refers to 2 off 8uF caps, I am not sure if this is correct or if my can is wrong.

The can measured 13uF and 32uF so well off what it is labelled as.

So I assumed the 13uF was 8uF connection wise and the 32uF was 16uF, have no idea if this is correct.

Anyhow I fitted a 10uF(all I had) to go to the point the 13uF was connected to and a 16uF to go to the point the 32uF was connected to.

I have ordered 8uF electrolytics.

The set is now up and running.

Was wondering, do I replace the 10uF and the 16Uf FOR 2 OFF 8Uf when they arrive. or just replace the 10uF for an 8uF.

Or leave well alone as the set works?

Hopefully makes sense.

Cheers, guy's.

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

10uf in place of 8uf is fine. C21 is possibly ok with 16uF. I love this model , car dealers special as Gerry Wells called them! Yes, I too have one and they work well.

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Cheers Hamish, I'll run the set as is for now and keep the 8's as spares when they arrive :thumbsup:

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

When capacitors measure higher values than stated it is usually because the test meter is being deceived by high leakage current.

Peter

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Thanks for the tip Peter. I was using the wee blue capacitance and ESR meter, have seen a lot of Youtubers using them.

Cheers
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Guy's, think that's it all restored, I'm sure the speaker cloth is original to.
The dial lights up nicely, didn't realise it was a colour one.

Also I managed to change all the caps under the wave change switch without removing it.

Cheers
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Well done! You may be right about the speaker cloth but it does differ from the Radiomuseum set and the Worthpoint set.

Peter

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

It's beautiful, especially the case. How does it sound?

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

Thanks Gabe, I spent a lot of time on that case, it is now just treated with Danish wood oil, feels like glass.

Sounds really nice as well, in fact now pride of place in my dining room, another nice feature of this set is no tuning cord and I think it has precision tuning to. Tuning knob is free to move slightly until it hits a top on the shaft then a bit more effort to quick tune.

Nice features on a set of this age.

Cheers
Lee

Re: RAP Transatlantic and valve help, please.
 

You've made an absolutely cracking job of the case on that radio. It is the part of the work that I enjoy the most- my rule is never to do the case until the "innards" are working !