Murphy A362.
 

When I first started to disassemble this radio l very quickly realised that it came from a house with an open coal fire. My hands were black! I started by cleaning the case inside and out with cif, followed by polishing the outside with greygate no.5 paste and a coat of beeswax Polish and a light buffing.

The resistors measured okay but all the capacitors (that I could reach) needed replacement. I decided to do the electrolytics and then focus on the area around V4/V5.

Picture one shows the dual can 50/50uF and C28, a class y cap between chassis and earth.

Picture two shows V1 and the two coils, one shielded the other not.

More to follow.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Now for the crowded area around V4/V5. I made a detailed sketch of all components, then proceeded to take out all the sticky wax caps and the Hunts Moldseals, which crumbled to bits as soon as they were touched!

Starting nearest the chassis l was about to fit the first of nine capacitors when my soldering iron died!

Three days later, with a brand spanking new 40 watt Weller, I replaced everything including C78 which was originally on the top of the chassis and is now beneath.

Picture three shows a view of the top including a clean spot where C78 was.

Picture four shows the crowded caps.

More to follow.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

The valve pins and sockets were cleaned with De-oxit as were the volume pot and wavechange switch. The original cloth-covered three core mains cable was swopped for modern white cable.

Now for the moment of truth! Plugged into a lamp limiter and switched on. l waited for forty seconds for the radio to come to life.

It was very quiet at full volume, with no hum, but a quick tune around and a screwdriver on the aerial socket brought Radio Three blasting in. Success. Good sensitivity on VHF and MW, lots of interference on LW.

Next l cleaned the front of the perspex dial, leaving the back untouched. We've all been there, haven't we? One loose bright was glued back onto a knob.

Picture five shows the lovely suspended dial, picture six shows the cleaned front without dial or knobs.

More to follow.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

To get the chassis back in easily l wiped some grease on the locating pegs. I used metal Polish on the slidebar for the pointer to ensure a smooth action. Three rust marks on the dial cord showed me where the pointer belonged and a quick check showed Radio Two at 88Mhz so no alignment of the pointer was required.

I put the back on, then the dial and knobs. Power on and Radio 2, 3, 4 and 1 all appeared at the right place, also 5live on MW.

This wasn't the easiest of restorations but SWMBO loves it in the kitchen so it's worth it.

I'd like to give a special thanks to Snowman_al for identifying a mystery cap C87 which I struggled with.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Nice work ...... it does look a little crowded in there!8-o

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Good job Ken, I have an A372 my wife bought me about 25 years ago (where did those years go) and I had problems until every Hunts was replaced and some are very well hidden!

One of my favourite looking 50's radios and a lovely sound on FM.

John

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Looks very nice, Ken. Did you have to respray the front of the cabinet or was it in good nick?

Re: Murphy A362.
 

I started off with Cif foam cleaner sprayed onto a soft cloth but the black film of coal smoke was so firmly glazed on that l used T-cut. It's a fine line between removing the dirt and taking off the paint finish!

I did read that someone else on the forum did have to respray their Murphy using Ford champagne gold.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

That's a great job you have done there. How well does it work on Long Wave?

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Because of its location in the kitchen, lit by upto nine fluorescent lamps, long wave is obliterated! But if I get up at three in the morning both medium and long wave can be used.

Next time I've got insomnia I'll make some notes and post them here.

Re: Murphy A362.
 

Nice work Ken, well done.

Phil