Revox PR99 Replacement PCB edge pins

[Linnovice]

Hi all. I'm in the ongoing process of refurbishing a Revox PR99. During which I have been experiencing a few problems with the output board muting relay. To speed things up I decided to buy a replacement board online. Unfortunately, it's been damaged in transit. Some of the edge locating pins have been severely bent. Trying to straighten them is virtually impossible as they tend to break off. Does anyone know where I can get some replacements. They are approximately 12mm long with two small pegs approx 3.5mm apart which go through the board. I only need eight but I can't find any listed on the net. Probably because I don't know the correct name for them.
Any guidance would be gratefully received,
Mike

[TonyDuell]

Are these electrical contacts or locating pins, or what?

Can you remove them from the old board? Or can you move the relay from the replacement board to the old one and use the latter?

[AC/HL]

As ever, a photo is worth a thousand words. Even a less than ideal one could help.

[tri-comp]

This one, in the attached file ?

I would try to remove the pins using Soder-Wick or similar, taking great care not to harm the PCB-tracks.
Straighten the pins and re-mount them.
Shouldn't be too hard.

[Linnovice]

They are both electrical and connecting. The problem was thought to be the relay but I've since put a jumper over to test the relay and it's fine. I intend recapping the board. Yes, I'm hoping to des older the damaged ones and replace with new/secondhand ones. The existing ones were severely bent and twisted. Like fish hooks, there is/was no way they could have been accurately straightened. Two of them were so badly deformed as soon as I put the slightest pressure on with needle nosed jewellers pliers they snapped. If some one would kindly tell me how to attach photos . . . I will.
Regards and thanks for the suggestions.
Mike

[Linnovice]

Hopefully this will do it!

[TonyDuell]

I wonder if you could use pins extracted from a Molex KK7478 series header. They would only mount in one hole of the PCB so you would have to find some way to keep them
aligned when soldering, but they look very similar...

For example Farnell 1756797

[sp10mk11]

I have had problems in the past with this sort of thing, I have removed them all and replaced them with home made ones from 0.5mm solid core copper, or if that size is no good just ferreted about to find some thing of a suitable size.

Good Luck
Gary

[Diabolical Artificer]

Mike,you could try de-soldering them from the board, then annealing them with a blow torch, then straighten them out. If you try this whilst they're on the PCB, you,ll damage the board. They look like they should be straightenable. Re-tin them, then back replace.

If you don't fancy that, I have some gold plated pins off an old scope PCB but they won't be as good as the originals.the ones I have are straight not bent at 90 degrees like yours. However, does the plug/header need to go in at that angle,IE side on? If not new pins may be easier to source. Sorry, I don't know the correct name/term for them. PCB pins? Saying that,I just found some on Ebay- under "2.54mm right angle single row pin header" . The one in question has the pins mounted in a plastic "frame". I put "PCB pins" into the search box. Or try PCB header pins/connector.

To find new replacements you'll need to measure them with a micrometer or vernier. Hope that helps.

Andy.

[Linnovice]

Hi Andy, I think the annealing bit is a bit beyond my capabilities to be honest. I've only just got a grown up soldering iron! I like the idea of the copper wire sp10MkII, I have some 32a T&E around and I think that may do it. What I'm really hoping for is an old board that is u/s to someone but I could get the pins off. Any volunteers?
Mike

[Radio Wrangler]

I thought Revox/Studer service manuals had maker and maker's part number listed for all the parts on each board. There may be magic numbers there.

What is the pin spacing? in that period 0.1 and 0.156 inch were common.

and a photo of the other side showing how 1 pin fits 2 holes might help as well. Those connectors could still be made, or something close enough.

David

[Michael Maurice]

Originally Posted by Linnovice

To speed things up I decided to buy a replacement board online. Unfortunately, it's been damaged in transit. Some of the edge locating pins have been severely bent.

Mike

It may be too late, but under the circumstances I would be returning the board to the vendor for a refund.

As it probably is too late for that, try buying and scrap B77/PR99 board and swap the pins from that.

[Nickthedentist]

Desoldering those could be "fun", as it's a double-sided board and the pins seem to have been splayed before solder was applied.

Good luck, you'll get there in the end.

N.

[Radio Wrangler]

Using a powerful thermostatic soldering iron (Weller TCP1 with a number 7 temperature bit would be my choice) warm up one plated-through hole at a time and use a solder-proof prod (Stainless or nickel) to push the cut end of the wire straight. Do it quickly to get the splayed end straightened before the heat is conducted round to the other stub.

With all the stubs straightened, use a large-ish flat ended bit to heat both paired holes at once and a little pair of tweezers or pliers will extract the pins one at a time.

A solder sucker or desoldering braid will clean out the holes. You need to be careful with a sucker... and braid leaves a cleaner job anyway.

Well-made plated through boards are a delight. Once you've done a few jobs on them they are very easy to work with. The key is to have a thermostatic iron so it doesn't get the board too hot, yet has enough power to get things to temperature quickly.

David

[Linnovice]

Well gentlemen (and ladies). You've certainly entered a note of caution into the arena. You're right Michael, I should have returned the board to the vendor. Problem is it's over three months ago and it was one of a batch. Domestic pressure at the time meant I could only give them a cursory check and all seemed ok. It was only when I removed the bubble wrap to use it that the fault was found.
David, there are two photos. One of each side. The manuals that I have do not carry a full parts list. I thank you your suggestions with regards to removing and replacing but I do feel with my limited experience this something to build up to.
So, in an effort to get my deck working again in the short term, I've decided to bite the bullet a get a replacement board. I've bought another on the site which will enable me to complete the setting up of the machine. I will come back to the damaged board at a later date, when hopefully, I will have been able to get hold of an scrap Revox board and cannibalise it. Thank you all for your input and advice.
Mike