Cossor Valve Radio Model 500 A.C.

[Sparticate7990]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased this as a project radio.

The first thing that has become apparent is that the veneer on one side has water damage that has resulted in a section being missing and fading to the rest of the panel, how do you guys go about dealing with this sort of thing?

Rylan

[SurreyNick]

Hi Rylan
It would help to have a couple of pictures of the cabinet (good and bad areas) in order to assess the scale of work and best solution(s)
Nick

[Michael.N.]

You can patch it with veneer or redo the entire cabinet. The success in patching is dependent on your skill and how extensive your stock of replacement veneer is. A very skilled restorer can make the patch all but disappear, whilst retaining what is left of the original. For most people it's much easier to do the whole cabinet, although for small areas I think that is excessive.
Faded areas can be tinted to better match the rest of the cabinet.

[Sparticate7990]

Hi Nick

Some pictures have been attached,

The case is in variable condition, with the most obviously damaged section visible in the images.

The amp is completely knackered, cut connections and bad repairs, it has been purchased for a project, but I do fancy a classic radio to restore at some point.

Rylan

[kestrelmusic]

Alternatively, look out for one on Ebay with a reasonably good cabinet but dodgy works. These sets are pretty common and you should be able to pick one up for a few pounds.

[Michael.N.]

That can be restored (virtually anything can) but I would firmly put that into an advanced category. I suppose you could use it as a practice piece and see how you get on with it. The worst that can happen is you'll lose the cost of the veneer and the time, you'll gain the experience though.

[SurreyNick]

I agree with the other forum members. Definitely do-able.

If it were me, I would begin by stripping all the old varnish off with paint stripper and then sand it down with a 180 grit paper, followed by a 400 grit paper. When sanding, be very careful with the side which has lost veneer and is lifting. Once you have it 'bare' you will be in a better position to decide what to do with the side that is damaged.

Me? I would buy a bit of matching veneer (it's probably teak or walnut) with a similar grain to replace the whole side piece with. If you search google for 'wood veneer' you will find plenty of dealers. Some even sell ready-glued 'iron-on' pieces. For the size you are looking for it's cheap and easy to apply. Then sand it down as before.

Once you've done that, stain the whole cabinet (with a 50/50 diluted spirit stain [walnut or teak] using white-spirit) applied with a 3" brush and immediately wipe off with a cloth. Apply one or more coats, leaving to touch-dry for at least 10 minutes between coats, until you have the depth of colour you like.

You can then finish off with several coats of just teak or linseed oil (applying with the French Polish technique), making sure the preceding coat is completely dry before applying the next. Alternatively apply a lightly-thinned varnish (80/20 varnish to thinner) - one or more coats - which can be sanded down with fine 0000 grade wire wool to be perfectly smooth and then polish with beeswax to finish off. Or you can even have a go at French Polishing - although the original was probably just varnished. The options are many and varied.

If you mess it up then as 'kestrelmusic' says, you can buy another with a decent cabinet off eBay. They are numerous and cheap.

Good luck!

Nick

[Reelman]

This cabinet is so typical of the problems seen with old radio sets. What would be really wonderful for us woodworking novices would be to see it renovated stage-by-stage with pictures and instructions. Would be great motivation to tackle one ourselves if we could see not only before and after but also "during". Any cabinet makers out wanting to volunteer? If so please start a new thread.
Many thanks
Peter

[Michael.N.]

Have a look on U-tube for 'hammer veneering'. The basics of the technique is explained in a few videos. Veneering with animal glue is a time tested low tech solution to veneering and much more reliable (long term) than the hot melt solutions. Impact adhesives are a poor substitute.
For a double boiler you can use a glass jar in a baby bottle warmer (a used Lindam is good), set so that the glue is maintained at 145 F. The 'hammer' can be home made.
Scalpel, masking tape and some sort of metal straight edge just about completes the necessary tools. There are a few 'repair' techniques that you should be aware of - the most difficult is patching a small area to repair damage in the centre of a large 'field'. Usually repaired by an oval shaped piece of veneer. If you look at good quality Birch Ply you often see how the manufacturers patch in veneer to cover blemishes in the surface.
The real skill comes in matching grain, colour and tinting/staining techniques to blend with the old veneer. Things like following grain lines from the old through to the new piece helps to deceive the eye. Some even take things further and paint fake grain lines to match the original veneer.
It's this colour and grain matching part that isn't easy to teach by either book or video.

[Sparticate7990]

I shall give it a go, I have nothing to lose

The closest match I have found is teak, I shall see how the sheets match when they arrive.

I think this case will be a test bed and maybe a mod project, as the amplifier is just completely hacked about ( the voltages involved with valve amps also scare me!)

I may be brave enough one day to restore a amplifier, I am not sure I will be though!

[SeanStevens]

I would tackle it thus:

1. Re-glue all loose veneer
2. Strip with a Stanley blade (go with the grain)
3. Lightly sand entire case

At this point you need to ensure that the water damage has not affected the structural rigidity – re-glue and clamp as required.

4. Using a very lightly dampened sponge, remove all dust from the case (helps show the grain and type of veneer.
5. Find matching veneers
6. Using a sharp blade and straight edge, make all repairs uniform (rectangular)
7. ‘Let in’ pieces of veneer using a gluing technique you are happy with
8. re-sand case around new veneer sections
9. apply Danish oil – wait – repeat

SEAN

[crackle]

Practice getting the electrical side working and use the radio as it is in the garage.

If it was a very rare radio I would attempt a repair of the missing veneer, but this requires a lot of skill and I admit I have never done one..

Alternatively, fill where the missing veneer was with epoxy filler, sand the case all over to smooth and paint a funky colour.

[Sparticate7990]

I would try to get the amp working, but my lack of experience and stories of 500+ volt shocks, puts me off a bit!

[Nickthedentist]

Originally Posted by crackle

Practice getting the electrical side working and use the radio as it is in the garage.

I have to admit to thinking the same. Leave its war wounds as a reminder of its tough life, but sort out the chassis and speaker so it works as well as new.

Nick.

[kalee20]

Originally Posted by Sparticate7990

I would try to get the amp working, but my lack of experience and stories of 500+ volt shocks, puts me off a bit!

The only place you'll see 500V-plus in this radio, is between the two anodes of the HT rectifier. So really, just between the two tags on the valveholder is the only place to be extra careful.

Everywhere else is powered by 280V or less, and while a 280V shock is unpleasant, it won't kill you unless you try very hard.

[PaulR]

My first restoration was a very similar set to this. It was a skip find by my son and it got me into collecting and repairing valve radios. It is very satisfying indeed to get something in this state working again after many years of disuse and neglect. My only prior knowledge was a hazy memory of schoolboy phyiscs.

There is a lot of help available here http://www.vintage-radio.com/ and elsewhere on the net. You will also find the contributors to this forum helpful and patient with people new to the hobby. There are high voltages involved and you must treat these with respect, but then so does everyone else who pursues this hobby.

If you made a perfect job of restoring the case you would then have a shiny box containing a non-working radio which really just a waste of space. You would almost certainly want to restore the chassis to match. These sets are common on ebay you could get a much cosmetically better example quite cheaply. As others have said, I would restore the chassis, clean up and stabilise the case as much as you can and leave it with its history visible, but still able to be used.

Paul

[Sparticate7990]

I shall try a restoration, but I hope to find a radio that hasn't been hacked about too much first!