Soldering info

[MotorBikeLes]

Not sure if this is correct place, but:-
I have bought one of the Chinese made desoldering stations. Outputs for soldering iron and de-soldering tool. Digital temperature settings and readout for both tools.
What are suggested temperatures for both soldering and de-soldering, with both 60:40 and for desoldering especially leadless. (I am most unlikely ever to use leadless for anything other than its removal).
Les.

[trickie_dickie]

This may help. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/315929.pdf

[Bazz4CQJ]

I'm extremely happy with my budget-price, far-eastern soldering iron, but that said, it could be that the accuracy of its temperature reading may not be its best feature. Also, so many other features come in to the issue like size/shape/surface condition of bits etc, that I tend to think that experience with the tool is the best guide. I usually have my Aoyue sit around 380-385°C on the display. Various attempts to confirm what it actually is have never provided very dependable answers.

B

[MotorBikeLes]

I have no doubt I will find the optimum temperatures, but don't get many chances to "USE" it right now. I must confess to hating these plated tips on the iron. I always scrounged other peoples worn tips from the 24v Wellers; I would file off all plating and use until all the copper was gone. 30 years ago, I used my Weller gun for most stuff, and when reconditioning Thyristor line Grundig CTVs, I replaced the bit about monthly. You certainly learn the right temperature with the guns!
A very big difference between Bazz4CQJ's 385 Celsius and the Data sheet's 185 softening point.
Les.

[dsergeant]

The Weller WHS40D I have just bought to replace my JBC SL2300 came preset to 350C. This seems fine for 60/40 but I found i had to set it to 370C or so for stuff using lead free. Bear in mind if you run it for long periods at the higher temperatures it will increase the oxidation of the bit. The JBC was obviously made in China, the bits oxidised very quickly and are also hard to source.
Dave

[Bazz4CQJ]

I used to regard the plated tips with suspicion, but if I get out my old Henley Solon, I find the copper bit on that is not as nice to use as my memory would have me recall . I'm still using wetted sponges as bit cleaners, though I know that is a practice many regard as brutal for bit-life.

B

[Alistair D]

Sorry for working in fahrenheit but my current solder/desolder station is a US made set and defaults to degrees F. Actually it goes back much further than that since work used Weller TCPs and those tips were all marked degrees F.

For soldering components to PCBs use 700 degrees F
For soldering wires use 650 degrees F.

For de-soldering components on single sided PCBs use 700
For through hole plated PCBs use 800.
On some PCBs either due due to ageing or a different grade of solder I have had to use 800 even for single sided boards.
All of the above are for lead/tin solder.

There are many different types of unleaded solder but I reckon Dave's post earlier is pretty well spot on.

Many respected sources in the soldering world suggest the separate sets of tips are kept for leaded and unleaded solder.

If you thought solder was just solder this Wikipedia article sheds a lot more light on the subject.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

Al

[russell_w_b]

Originally Posted by Bazz4CQJ

I'm still using wetted sponges as bit cleaners, though I know that is a practice many regard as brutal for bit-life.

We've never had a problem using wetted sponges and, until recently, kept them moist with de-ionised water. Those swarfy bits of coiled up metal that are a tip-wipe option, on the other hand, can splash hot gobs of solder around like nobody's business and so pose a risk that isn't worth taking.

[Nickthedentist]

I also use a wet sponge, though I was warned by someone here to keep it barely damp rather than sopping wet to minimise thermal shock to the bit.

Why de-ionised, Russell?

N.

[russell_w_b]

Originally Posted by Nickthedentist

Why de-ionised, Russell?

We were once told that the impurities in tap water rot the bit and, as we used to make de-ionised water by the gallon, felt it might extend their life if we used it instead!

I can't comment on how efficacious this was as we didn't have a 'control' experiment with one iron kept moist with tap-water.

[David Simpson]

Les & Guys,
A range of temperatures are required for a number of functions in the soldering of wiring & components in electronics, these days.
In earlier times, when just using fixed temp irons, Weller, Solon, etc - contact time between iron & a wire or component was extremely critical. Too long - and pvc insulation would shrink then very quickly melt & distort. Too short - and dry joints might be the result.
As a general rule of thumb when using a modern soldering station :-
For tinning the ends of wires prior to connecting to pins/tags, etc just 340 deg C is needed on say bog standard 0.5mm/2491X.
For connecting 2491X to small ready tinned pins or tags -350 to 360deg.
At this point it is worth remembering that tags, pins, component wires, etc will readily conduct heat away from the joint. The bigger the fixed connection - slightly longer time is needed. But, and its a big but - - semi-conductors & small components are easily damaged by excess heat - remember to use a clip-on heat sink. Also, veroboard & pcb's are prone to excess heat lifting the copper from the substrate boarding. Only use a bit just over the size of the feed-through hole, but no wider than the copper strip.
For soldering/de-soldering big heavy old tags & pins(old B4/B5 Valve holders, etc) - 360 to 380 deg would be needed.
As this is a 'Vintage' radio Forum - we're going to experience the soldering techniques in use back in the 30's to 50's. No nice flux-cored 60/40 solder. Hand-heated un-plated big old copper bits and a dollop of Bakers Flux. Un-tinned s/core wires(1.5 to 2.5mm approx) wrapped twice or thrice around(& through) pins,tags & and valve holder connections. A helluva job to de-solder. You might well need your soldering station to be wound up to 400 degC briefly to remove all the excrement.
Final advice - - Find or scrounge some old gash chassis & some pcb's, and a variety of short lengths of modern & old wiring - - and practice with your new station & a selection of bits & temperatures - - till you feel happy enough to tackle a valuable set. One particular insulating material which is seriously & frusratingly suseptable to excess heat from a soldering iron - - is the inner polythene in co-ax cabling. As is the copper/cotton flex in mic/tel cables - best to whip with fine tinned copper wire before tinning ends prior to soldering to tags or terminations.

Regards, David

[Herald1360]

Originally Posted by Nickthedentist

Why de-ionised, Russell?

I wonder if it just stops the sponge from going all hard with limescale from tap water?

Never bothered myself, but tip / sponge life isn't much of a problem anyway with occasional use.

[David Simpson]

Russell's comment on flicking gobules of solder about is well worth noting.
Tip cleaning - - I use a digital RS S/Sation now, and between each jointing action I wipe my plated tip with a piece of white kitchen roll. Then, every so often, say 5 or 6 joints or so - I give the tip a quick stroke over the wet sponge. Carbonized flux, stray bits of wax, bits of crud, etc - soon build up on the un-plated shaft of the tip. Always give your tip a jolly good tin & clean(leaving a thin coat of shiney solder), just prior to switching off.
As all ex RAF guys( especially those I taught soldering at Cosford) will tell you - best to keep your tip & shaft as clean as possible.

Regards, David

[FrankB]

I have used the Weller stations for decades.
I find that using an 800 deg. F. tip is the best for me.
I de-solder SMT, Tube sockets, etc. with it and soldering the same is easy.

Using a lower temp bit means having to stay on the part way longer and sometimes heating it up enough to damage it.
I also find the newer Weller WTCP station bits do not last like the old ones did either. I will get maybe 3 months use out of the new ones, temp rating not mattering.

I bought a HAKKO and am still on the original bit after several years of use.

I own a number of different temp. Weller "2 speed" guns too. I make the replacement tips out of #12 house wiring. They last as well, if not better, than the OEM tips, and don't cost up to $6.00 each like they go here for in many of the stores.

Your mileage and experience may vary, Not recommended for use by children. Prices do not include tax or hazardous disposal fees.

[MotorBikeLes]

Thanks for all the replies. I was just after a few tips to save time "finding out" as I don't spend a lot of time in electronics room right now. I have put a bit of a chart ready to save time setting, and will refer to it untill second nature. I seem to have learned something; I knew Weller tip numbers increased with temperature, but it seems I add two zeros and think Fahrenheit!
I am unlikely to be doing any 1930's wirelesses, but if I did, I would probably snip the lead close, swamp it with fresh multicore, suck it all away, and repeat until it was clean enough to remove, probably with VERY FINE side cutters, one bit at a time. I guess since it is 60 years since I had my first 25W solon, I will manage to use this. I still hate unplated tips though!
Les.

[poortman]

Do you still use your Henly Solon? it was my first one in the begin of 1960-ies.
Here a link to show my one:
http://www.pa3esy.nl/Amroh/Onderdele...delen_set.html

regards, Jan

[MotorBikeLes]

Poortman, no, that Solon died about 30 years ago, but I think I have another little used one I acquired. I have a 15W, a 60W, a 120w and a 500w, all Solon. I must have between 20 and 25 irons in various places. I seem to acquire but not dispose. The resle value is just about zero, and I don't know how to throw suff away.
Les.