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Other Vintage Household Electrical or Electromechanical Items For discussions about other vintage (over 25 years old) electrical and electromechanical household items. See the sticky thread for details.

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Old 2nd May 2016, 9:29 am   #41
Jimboger
Retired Dormant Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ammersbek Rehagen, Germany
Posts: 16
Default Re: Metamec Electric Clock Repair

Mark - the screwdriver test (on just one side of the worm) worked and you have clearly identified my problem.

As per your suggestion, my plan is to superglue on some washers on the outside of the bearings/brackets to make the oval holes round. I don't like the fact that I only have one shot at getting the positioning perfect with this solution but I don't have another option given the tools and materials at my disposal. A couple of questions:

1. Does it matter what kind of metal the washers are made from? Does brass have some particular quality which makes it most suitable for this kind of work?

2. Should I try and find washers with a 10BA interior diameter (as mentioned in the other thread)? I don't want to leave too much or too little play for the worm to do its work.

Thanks, Jim
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Old 2nd May 2016, 2:28 pm   #42
mark_in_manc
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Location: Manchester, UK.
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Default Re: Metamec Electric Clock Repair

Hi Jim

My 10BA fastener was the tiny bolt I used to attach my metal plate onto the side of the existing bearing. I think a 10BA washer would be a bit too small for the shaft protruding from the end of the worm to go through! You can even find a small nut or washer floating in the bottom of your kitchen drawer (as another poster did) and use that.

You can use brass, steel, even nylon though this might only last another one decade, and not 4 And it doesn't need to be a particularly good fit on that shaft - it just needs to push the worm shaft back to the front of its bearing, just as you did with the screwdriver. And so long as you're careful and don't blob glue everywhere, you don't have one chance - whether you use super-glue or a 2-pack epoxy like araldite, you'll have to get it all quite clean first, but you'll be able to put a small screwdriver in and pop off the glue joint if it goes wrong, clean it all up with abrasive paper, and try again.

(Oh - abrasive paper is generally good for scratching a metal surface before using glue in order to provide something for the glue to get hold of - a so- called 'key'.)
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Old 3rd May 2016, 8:39 am   #43
Jimboger
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Default Re: Metamec Electric Clock Repair

Superb stuff Mark - thanks so much. I am ready to go with repair and will report back later.
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Old 3rd May 2016, 12:04 pm   #44
Jimboger
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ammersbek Rehagen, Germany
Posts: 16
Default Re: Metamec Electric Clock Repair

First attempts at this repair have unfortunately failed.

I just cannot seem to get the nuts glued on in a position that allows the worm to both mesh and not be too tight. Getting the worm remounted without breaking off the glued on nuts is also proving problematic.

I might look into the possibility of screwing a small piece of metal on and drilling a hole as per Mark's repair. Getting there (I think) but slowly!
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Old 3rd May 2016, 12:40 pm   #45
mark_in_manc
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Default Re: Metamec Electric Clock Repair

Jim

On mine, the 'shaft' through the worm was in fact two pins, one pushed in to each end. So to get the worm back in, I pulled the pins out, put the worm in position between the bent-tab bearings, and then pushed the pins back in through the modified bearings and into the worm - one from each end.

Now you have the idea, I'm sure you just need to keep messing until you get it right! If you need a glue you can experiment with (regarding clearance) before leaving it to set, you could try sticking it together with a 2-part epoxy putty like Milliput. It won't be at all strong until entirely set, but it goes off rock hard and the joint will be strong enough for what is needed here. You can then stick your mod on with the whole thing together, mess with the clearance until it works, and then leave it all for 24 hours to go off properly. All needs to be really clean and keyed on glued surfaces. The advantage, as well letting you mess around with positioning, is much less chance of a glob of glue ending up in the (assembled, since you need to check clearance) clockwork. And if it goes wroung, you'll be able to break the joint, clean it all off, and repeat to fade!
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