Softening cabinet glue & separating cabinet joints

[Nightcruiser]

I'm currently rebuilding a Philips table radiogram. As the finish is completely shot, in order to restore the set properly all of the cabinetry has to be dismantled.

The side panels were originally spray finished in a thick black/red high gloss piano lacquer, while the remainder of the cabinet was stained and spray finished with a lacquer tinted darker than the wood itself.

Before I begin this mammoth jigsaw, does anyone know what types of glues were used on these postwar sets?


John

[ColinTheAmpMan1]

Hi John,
In the absence of anyone else suggesting stuff, I'll put my two-penn'orth in as the son of a cabinet-maker. My guess is that hide glue would have been used; it was (and still should be) used for quality furniture, etc. If you can see any blobs or beads of excess glue on the inside joints, take a look at the colour. If it is medium-to-dark brown, it is likely to be hide glue. If you can break off any bits of excess and hold it in your hand to warm it up, It should go tacky and maybe soften up somewhat. If it is hide glue, then gentle application of steam might soften it to the point where you can prise the joints apart.
I think it unlikely that the glue will be PVA, as I don't think it was invented just after WWII, but I could be wrong. Any excess of this glue would be a lighter colour, maybe even close to the original white. I'm not sure about how you might undo joints glued with PVA, but application of steam might work.
I am puzzled as to why you want to take it completely apart, unless you need to replace parts that have been destroyed by wood-worm. Can't you just clamp it together tightly to close any gaps after applying a bit more glue? It wouldn't matter too much if you used PVA glue where the original was hide glue, but that might be an issue of authenticity for you.
Good Luck, Colin.

[emeritus]

Waterproof Urea Formaldehyde resin glues were certainly available during WWII but I don't know if they were used in post-war radio construction.

I well remember my father buying some Aerolite 306 and its hardener (still available today) in the mid-1950's. Adverts in the DIY magazines of the time mentioned its use in making wooden-bodied fighter planes during the war, and invited you to test its strength by making a cross by overlapping and clamping two pieces of wood, having applied glue and hardener at the overlap, and then to try to break it once the glue had set. Dad duly did this, and the joint only failed by a chunk of wood being torn out of one of the pieces. It was most impressive, and dad subsequently binned his cast iron glue pot.

[robin coleman]

It will more than likely be hide glue one of the best reversible wood glues made. Hot water or steam used liberally should soften it. but be careful near veneer as this can lift it. I still use the cast iron glue pot on numerous occasions.

Regards, Robin.

[brenellic2000]

Natural resin glues were certainly long used for water-proof/resistant and in insect-proof use (Cascamite etc) especially for marine plywood, and in the aircraft grade ply for the Mosquito with its more advanced stressed construction than that of the plywood bodied/clad aeroplanes of the Great War.

But for a cabinet maker they are generally unnecessary (except for extreme strength - when Cascamite is best). For most purposes Scotch glue remained the standard into the 1950s.... and remains the preferred choice for quality work with good reason as it works on most timbers whereas expoxy resins such as Araldite and some PVAs don't always take to oak and others! Its a case of suck it and see - metaphorically, of course.

It's never a good idea to mix glues when repairing; if the original is Scotch, then use Scotch for an almost guaranteed repair. PVA for PVA etc but the surest way remains to remove all glue and abraid the joints, especially with modern adhesives. Scotch glue can be removed by gentle heat and meths.

Barry