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		<title>UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum</title>
		<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/</link>
		<description>UK vintage radio repair and restoration discussion forum</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 22:38:00 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Bulgin Jack Socket</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83826&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 21:35:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I wonder if anyone can help. I am re-furbishing an Eddystone S640. The front panel "phones" socket is broken. Only the front part is damaged. The bit I require is the front panel fixing. It has a phenolic nut part and a brass threaded part attached to the rear which mates with a brass female thread on the actual jack socket behind the front panel. I am pretty sure it was made by Bulgin. Unlike modern equivalents, this jack sits flush with the rear of the front panel and is secured by screwing the front part through the front panel into the brass socket on the back part. I wanted to avoid having to rewire the jack socket as I would have to if I replaced the jack with a modern item. TIA
 
 
 
Ian]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I wonder if anyone can help. I am re-furbishing an Eddystone S640. The front panel &quot;phones&quot; socket is broken. Only the front part is damaged. The bit I require is the front panel fixing. It has a phenolic nut part and a brass threaded part attached to the rear which mates with a brass female thread on the actual jack socket behind the front panel. I am pretty sure it was made by Bulgin. Unlike modern equivalents, this jack sits flush with the rear of the front panel and is secured by screwing the front part through the front panel into the brass socket on the back part. I wanted to avoid having to rewire the jack socket as I would have to if I replaced the jack with a modern item. TIA<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
Ian</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=28">Sets and Parts Wanted (private buyers only, no swaps)</category>
			<dc:creator>Hermit6345</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83826</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Garrard type AT6 mark2 - repair needed</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83825&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 19:55:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi
Does anyone know who I could approach to see about repairing a Garrard type AT6 mark2 record player? We live in Fleet Hampshire which is near Reading and Guildford.

My 90 year old neighbour has a Garrard radiogram circa 1960ish. It was working fine until recently, but he decided (who knows why?!) to unscrew the 'pivot screw for spring loaded cone bearing' (shown on page seven of the manual). The back screw fell into the cabinet and he cannot locate it. He has the front one. He used to be a precision engineer, but doesn't have the dexterity or eyesight to deal with it. I know absolutely nothing about these things. I've searched in and around the cabinet, but can't find it anywhere. I've even tipped the whole thing up to see if I can rattle it out, or find a place to get access inside, but couldn't do it.

I could maybe get the turntable/deck out with guidance to send it off in the post, or drive it somewhere, but ideally would like to find a repairer to come out. Or I could perhaps just remove the arm for repair. It's just the screw that's missing.

Please help as he is fretting about it and cannot play Ken Dodd at full blast at the moment - possibly a good thing though!

Regards, 
Sue]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi<br />
Does anyone know who I could approach to see about repairing a Garrard type AT6 mark2 record player? We live in Fleet Hampshire which is near Reading and Guildford.<br />
<br />
My 90 year old neighbour has a Garrard radiogram circa 1960ish. It was working fine until recently, but he decided (who knows why?!) to unscrew the 'pivot screw for spring loaded cone bearing' (shown on page seven of the manual). The back screw fell into the cabinet and he cannot locate it. He has the front one. He used to be a precision engineer, but doesn't have the dexterity or eyesight to deal with it. I know absolutely nothing about these things. I've searched in and around the cabinet, but can't find it anywhere. I've even tipped the whole thing up to see if I can rattle it out, or find a place to get access inside, but couldn't do it.<br />
<br />
I could maybe get the turntable/deck out with guidance to send it off in the post, or drive it somewhere, but ideally would like to find a repairer to come out. Or I could perhaps just remove the arm for repair. It's just the screw that's missing.<br />
<br />
Please help as he is fretting about it and cannot play Ken Dodd at full blast at the moment - possibly a good thing though!<br />
<br />
Regards, <br />
Sue</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=14">Vintage Audio (record players, hi-fi etc)</category>
			<dc:creator>Sue Fleet</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83825</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[My 1950's VW Beetle Radio]]></title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83824&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 19:20:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I need some help with my radio, I hope I am in the correct area!

I recently brought a VW Beetle 8-) 

BUT.. the radio never worked :'( the car was changed from 6v to 12v with this in mind, I removed the radio and checked the internals.. you guessed it, 6v!!

[IMG]http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/623/img2012051500568.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/2060/img2012051500553.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/891/img2012051500566.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5607/img2012051500567.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2321/img2012051500565.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9153/img2012051500561.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5058/img2012051500557.jpg[/IMG]

There seems to be some wiring damage and a resistor? burnt out..

Hope the photo's help..

Is there a fix or a perm fix to 12v? Your help would be great :D]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I need some help with my radio, I hope I am in the correct area!<br />
<br />
I recently brought a VW Beetle 8-) <br />
<br />
BUT.. the radio never worked :'( the car was changed from 6v to 12v with this in mind, I removed the radio and checked the internals.. you guessed it, 6v!!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/623/img2012051500568.jpg" target="_blank">http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/6...2051500568.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/2060/img2012051500553.jpg" target="_blank">http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/2...2051500553.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/891/img2012051500566.jpg" target="_blank">http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8...2051500566.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5607/img2012051500567.jpg" target="_blank">http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5...2051500567.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2321/img2012051500565.jpg" target="_blank">http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/232...2051500565.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9153/img2012051500561.jpg" target="_blank">http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9...2051500561.jpg</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5058/img2012051500557.jpg" target="_blank">http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5...2051500557.jpg</a><br />
<br />
There seems to be some wiring damage and a resistor? burnt out..<br />
<br />
Hope the photo's help..<br />
<br />
Is there a fix or a perm fix to 12v? Your help would be great :D</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20">Vintage Radio (domestic)</category>
			<dc:creator>Bella58</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83824</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What is this waxy blob ?</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83821&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 18:49:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm curious about this component which I came across on a rather untidy old tagstrip I acquired. It appears to be a waxy blob with a yellow band printed (painted ? transferred ?) onto it with some indistinct numbers on the band. The body of the component is about 12-15mm long. It was wired in parallel with a rectangular silver mica capacitor, one of the sort with tags rather than wire leads if that gives any indication of date. A quick measure with an ordinary DMM reveals that it has infinite DC resistance and negligible capacitance (it reads more-or-less zero on the 2nF range). Of course it may well be a dead one of whatever it used to be. Or perhaps a very low value capacitor (which is what open circuit versions of anything become, I guess ;D) ?

Cheers,

GJ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm curious about this component which I came across on a rather untidy old tagstrip I acquired. It appears to be a waxy blob with a yellow band printed (painted ? transferred ?) onto it with some indistinct numbers on the band. The body of the component is about 12-15mm long. It was wired in parallel with a rectangular silver mica capacitor, one of the sort with tags rather than wire leads if that gives any indication of date. A quick measure with an ordinary DMM reveals that it has infinite DC resistance and negligible capacitance (it reads more-or-less zero on the 2nF range). Of course it may well be a dead one of whatever it used to be. Or perhaps a very low value capacitor (which is what open circuit versions of anything become, I guess ;D) ?<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
GJ</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=40">Components and Circuits</category>
			<dc:creator>GrimJosef</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83821</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>OT: Part of old Emley Moor TV antenna</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83820&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 18:44:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Not sure if this post will make it, but here is part of the old Emley moor TV transmitter antenna. Dad picked up three when we visited the wreckage. I've never known exactly what part it was, but it will be from the antenna. Other two got made into poker receptacles.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Not sure if this post will make it, but here is part of the old Emley moor TV transmitter antenna. Dad picked up three when we visited the wreckage. I've never known exactly what part it was, but it will be from the antenna. Other two got made into poker receptacles.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37">Vintage Television and Video</category>
			<dc:creator>radiozero</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83820</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Identification Required: TV with sliding "doors".]]></title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83819&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 18:28:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I wish I knew what first TV we had. All I know is that we had it from about 1963 to about 1968. Of course black and white. Stood on legs. What was cool about it, is that you could hide the picture tube by drawing across two "doors", left and right. The "doors" retracted into the sides of the telly when revealing the picture tube. It was a rented set. Any ideas? Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I wish I knew what first TV we had. All I know is that we had it from about 1963 to about 1968. Of course black and white. Stood on legs. What was cool about it, is that you could hide the picture tube by drawing across two &quot;doors&quot;, left and right. The &quot;doors&quot; retracted into the sides of the telly when revealing the picture tube. It was a rented set. Any ideas? Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37">Vintage Television and Video</category>
			<dc:creator>radiozero</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83819</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>722 problem</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83818&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 18:15:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,  
I have this old 722, I've fitted a new line cord and plugged it in, and when I lift the receiver, I have dial tone, but when I dial a number, the dial tone stays, and won't break. If I ring the phone it rings and I can pick up and it works fine,  I just have this dialing problem.

Can this be fixed?
or has the phone had it?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,  <br />
I have this old 722, I've fitted a new line cord and plugged it in, and when I lift the receiver, I have dial tone, but when I dial a number, the dial tone stays, and won't break. If I ring the phone it rings and I can pick up and it works fine,  I just have this dialing problem.<br />
<br />
Can this be fixed?<br />
or has the phone had it?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=111">Vintage Telephony and Telecomms</category>
			<dc:creator>Jonny_doe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83818</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help with full-wave rectifier circuit</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83815&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 15:59:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, due the ageing process I'm a bit rusty on theory and hope some kind soul can help with this theoretical problem :-) 

I have a centre-tapped transformer with a secondary of  250-0-250 Volts rated at 100mA going into a valve rectifier, say EZ81 with LC filtering. 

1. What off-load voltage can I expect at the reservoir capacitor, say 32µF?
2. How can I calculate the voltage at the reservoir capacitor for a load of 50mA, ie. before the voltage drop in the smoothing choke? 

Thanks for your help guys.

Eddie King]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, due the ageing process I'm a bit rusty on theory and hope some kind soul can help with this theoretical problem :-) <br />
<br />
I have a centre-tapped transformer with a secondary of  250-0-250 Volts rated at 100mA going into a valve rectifier, say EZ81 with LC filtering. <br />
<br />
1. What off-load voltage can I expect at the reservoir capacitor, say 32µF?<br />
2. How can I calculate the voltage at the reservoir capacitor for a load of 50mA, ie. before the voltage drop in the smoothing choke? <br />
<br />
Thanks for your help guys.<br />
<br />
Eddie King</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=40">Components and Circuits</category>
			<dc:creator>eddie_ce</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83815</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Monitor fault</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83814&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 13:39:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have been given a Amstrad PC ECD monitor that had no screen image. Having removed the back I managed to get a light blue screen image by adjusting the two controls on the tube transformer, not sure if its called that but it has one thick wire that goes to the side of the CRT. However after turning of the set to replace the back on switch on I could not get any image again. Do you think by adjusting the transformer I have blown something.
Cheers Mike</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have been given a Amstrad PC ECD monitor that had no screen image. Having removed the back I managed to get a light blue screen image by adjusting the two controls on the tube transformer, not sure if its called that but it has one thick wire that goes to the side of the CRT. However after turning of the set to replace the back on switch on I could not get any image again. Do you think by adjusting the transformer I have blown something.<br />
Cheers Mike</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Vintage Computers</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike Brett</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83814</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dynatron Jewel TP30A</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83813&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 13:29:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi All,

I'm looking for service data for the Dynatron Jewel TP30*A*...

Before anyone mentions it, this is not available from "up top" ;D

The more familiar TP30 is, but the A version is quite different internally. It seems that it's quite rare. There is a teak version - as Dynatron tended to offer back then - but confusingly, this is a TP33!

A search revealed an eBay seller who had a service manual for the TP30A/TP33, and it didn't sell. Sadly, he's not responded to my messages...

I've attached a couple of pictures of the set, along with an internal picture of the more common TP30 so you can see the differences:

If nothing else, hope this is interesting. I had no idea that this humble-looking set, rescued from the floor at the NVCF for a fiver, would prove so interesting ;)

Thanks in advance,

Mark]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All,<br />
<br />
I'm looking for service data for the Dynatron Jewel TP30<b>A</b>...<br />
<br />
Before anyone mentions it, this is not available from &quot;up top&quot; ;D<br />
<br />
The more familiar TP30 is, but the A version is quite different internally. It seems that it's quite rare. There is a teak version - as Dynatron tended to offer back then - but confusingly, this is a TP33!<br />
<br />
A search revealed an eBay seller who had a service manual for the TP30A/TP33, and it didn't sell. Sadly, he's not responded to my messages...<br />
<br />
I've attached a couple of pictures of the set, along with an internal picture of the more common TP30 so you can see the differences:<br />
<br />
If nothing else, hope this is interesting. I had no idea that this humble-looking set, rescued from the floor at the NVCF for a fiver, would prove so interesting ;)<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
<br />
Mark</div>


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]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20">Vintage Radio (domestic)</category>
			<dc:creator>mhennessy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83813</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Marconi 4028 Record Player - Failed upgrade</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83811&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 12:30:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This player is not cosmetically attractive (chrome trim corroded) except to me for use as my 'in use' player for my 78's etc. I thought I'd ugrade the deck as I have a BSR HT70 knocking around and use it with a G800 magnetic cartridge.

I also have from the early 80's a small magnetic cartridge pre-amp (just a circuit board, to be precise a Harverson 1632/3) which needs a seperate power supply.

I decided to use the output from the mains transformer which is bolted underneath the chassis which provides about 19VAC to the main amp. 

I knocked up a rectifier with four diodes, two 1000uF caps with a 150ohm resistor in between and wired it across the 19V output in parallel with the feed to the main amp and this gave about 25volts DC.

I wired everything up, checked the wiring and switched on. Dead silence. Switched off and checked what the smell was. The selenium rectifier on the main amp board was hot had died.

Now the question is, was this coincidence or was it caused by my hooking up my rectifier and pre-amp? 

Thanks in anticipation for your help.

Alex]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This player is not cosmetically attractive (chrome trim corroded) except to me for use as my 'in use' player for my 78's etc. I thought I'd ugrade the deck as I have a BSR HT70 knocking around and use it with a G800 magnetic cartridge.<br />
<br />
I also have from the early 80's a small magnetic cartridge pre-amp (just a circuit board, to be precise a Harverson 1632/3) which needs a seperate power supply.<br />
<br />
I decided to use the output from the mains transformer which is bolted underneath the chassis which provides about 19VAC to the main amp. <br />
<br />
I knocked up a rectifier with four diodes, two 1000uF caps with a 150ohm resistor in between and wired it across the 19V output in parallel with the feed to the main amp and this gave about 25volts DC.<br />
<br />
I wired everything up, checked the wiring and switched on. Dead silence. Switched off and checked what the smell was. The selenium rectifier on the main amp board was hot had died.<br />
<br />
Now the question is, was this coincidence or was it caused by my hooking up my rectifier and pre-amp? <br />
<br />
Thanks in anticipation for your help.<br />
<br />
Alex</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=14">Vintage Audio (record players, hi-fi etc)</category>
			<dc:creator>awc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83811</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sony TCKB920S</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83810&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 12:22:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[About a week ago, I got a phone call from a man in Switzerland, he had the above cassette deck and couldn't get it repaired by Sony in Switzerland but was coming to the UK and could I do it.

He told me that a gear on the reel motor had gone but these were no longer available.

Someone didn't look far, I found 4 on Ebay.de and one in Italy.  

The gentleman concerned was staying in Surrey but going to Coventry last Sunday and asI was going to be at the NVCF,that would be the place to meet.

Next day I stripped the deck out to find it swimming in oil, not WD40, more like 3 in 1.

Maybe Sony in Switzerland took one look at it and decided to quote for a part that was NLA, hoping he'd go away, which of course he did, - to me!

Apparently there was a squeaking noise which he felt he could sort out by a drop of oil:wall:.

He didn't tell me that!

Attempts to remove the oil with normal products failed.  There was only one thing to do, strip the deck right down to the bare chassis.

This entailed removing the cassette holder, head block, motor block, stripping motors off motor block, control cam and other plastic parts and the flyweel, and with the exception of the motors washing them in a powerful engine degreaser, rinsing off in hot water and drying them in the over before reassembling.

The motors were also cleaned but not rinsed off, they were cleaned with paper towel.

The whole thing was then reassembled with new belts and a pinch roller.

After this it worked first time.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>About a week ago, I got a phone call from a man in Switzerland, he had the above cassette deck and couldn't get it repaired by Sony in Switzerland but was coming to the UK and could I do it.<br />
<br />
He told me that a gear on the reel motor had gone but these were no longer available.<br />
<br />
Someone didn't look far, I found 4 on Ebay.de and one in Italy.  <br />
<br />
The gentleman concerned was staying in Surrey but going to Coventry last Sunday and asI was going to be at the NVCF,that would be the place to meet.<br />
<br />
Next day I stripped the deck out to find it swimming in oil, not WD40, more like 3 in 1.<br />
<br />
Maybe Sony in Switzerland took one look at it and decided to quote for a part that was NLA, hoping he'd go away, which of course he did, - to me!<br />
<br />
Apparently there was a squeaking noise which he felt he could sort out by a drop of oil:wall:.<br />
<br />
He didn't tell me that!<br />
<br />
Attempts to remove the oil with normal products failed.  There was only one thing to do, strip the deck right down to the bare chassis.<br />
<br />
This entailed removing the cassette holder, head block, motor block, stripping motors off motor block, control cam and other plastic parts and the flyweel, and with the exception of the motors washing them in a powerful engine degreaser, rinsing off in hot water and drying them in the over before reassembling.<br />
<br />
The motors were also cleaned but not rinsed off, they were cleaned with paper towel.<br />
<br />
The whole thing was then reassembled with new belts and a pinch roller.<br />
<br />
After this it worked first time.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=34">Success Stories</category>
			<dc:creator>Michael Maurice</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83810</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>6SL7 times two?</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83809&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 12:14:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi
Having just completed  a DIY Loftin White direct coupled 2A3 amp I'm looking to change 2 valves in the preamp section from russian surplus (I have a load of these) to something British/American.  Does anyone have a couple of matching valves that would suit?
Thanks
Mike]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi<br />
Having just completed  a DIY Loftin White direct coupled 2A3 amp I'm looking to change 2 valves in the preamp section from russian surplus (I have a load of these) to something British/American.  Does anyone have a couple of matching valves that would suit?<br />
Thanks<br />
Mike</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=28">Sets and Parts Wanted (private buyers only, no swaps)</category>
			<dc:creator>Whaam68</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83809</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Aerial masts</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83808&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 12:13:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Two 2" diameter thick walled aluminium scaffold poles 20/21 feet long. Good condition, relatively light and very strong. Make good masts for amateur or domestic radio. 1-1/2" tubing will fit inside to extend height if required. Buyer will be able to see how my unobtrusive 30 foot scaffold masts are arranged to gain ideas if required.

Collect only of course. £25 each.

Jim]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Two 2&quot; diameter thick walled aluminium scaffold poles 20/21 feet long. Good condition, relatively light and very strong. Make good masts for amateur or domestic radio. 1-1/2&quot; tubing will fit inside to extend height if required. Buyer will be able to see how my unobtrusive 30 foot scaffold masts are arranged to gain ideas if required.<br />
<br />
Collect only of course. £25 each.<br />
<br />
Jim</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=27">Sets and Parts Offered (private sellers only, exact price required, no swaps)</category>
			<dc:creator>G4XWDJim</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83808</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Pre WWII Pilot Radio Parts, knobs Chassis</title>
			<link>http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83806&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 11:33:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking for a few spares to finish several sets that I have time to restore now.  I need several of the 30s knobs, all three versions, US or British and U106, U475, U650 Chassis and speakers.

Always looking for 30s advertising as well and the elusive Pilot 364 and 365 sets
thanks
Bill</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for a few spares to finish several sets that I have time to restore now.  I need several of the 30s knobs, all three versions, US or British and U106, U475, U650 Chassis and speakers.<br />
<br />
Always looking for 30s advertising as well and the elusive Pilot 364 and 365 sets<br />
thanks<br />
Bill</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=28">Sets and Parts Wanted (private buyers only, no swaps)</category>
			<dc:creator>pilotradio</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83806</guid>
		</item>
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